EBURY PRESS

HOW TO GET GLASS SKIN Dr Anupriya Goel is an aesthetic dermatologist and a leading expert in non-surgical aesthetic medicine. Her work is her passion, and she has made a name for herself in the industry in a very short time. She is the medical director of Berkowits Hair & Skin Clinic, with a team of more than 170 technicians and paramedical staff working under her guidance. She not only specializes in anti-ageing treatments but also has a passion for training. She is a senior faculty member and a certified Allergan Medical Institute trainer for fillers and Botox. She is also a national trainer for the MINT treatment. She is one of the four key opinion leaders of the Autologous Micro-Graft treatment for hair loss in the country and is the only doctor in the world to have formally achieved more than 300 cases of successful treatments by this procedure. Her eye for treatment and skills are not just limited to facial aesthetics but also involves hairline designing. She has been trained in hair-transplant procedures in a prestigious hospital in Turkey. She educates people on skincare and haircare regularly through her YouTube videos, which have more than 20 million views. She has also been invited to medical conferences, FM Rainbow and the Rotary club multiple times to spread her knowledge on skincare. Her widespread practice is not just limited to the eleven clinics in the NCR, but she has plans to spread her wings throughout the country and has already set up clinics in Kolkata and Hyderabad. Berkowits products are formulated under her guidance and with her expert advice. Each ingredient is hand-picked by her team for best results. Her Instagram handle is @dranupriyagoel She can be contacted at [email protected]

How to Get

Glass Skin Industry Secrets to Getting Flawless, Glowing Skin

Ebury Press USA | Canada | UK | Ireland | Australia New Zealand | India | South Africa | China Ebury Press is part of the Penguin Random House group of companies whose addresses can be found at global.penguinrandomhouse.com Published by Penguin Random House India Pvt. Ltd 4th Floor, Capital Tower 1, MG Road, Gurugram 122 002, Haryana, India

First published in Ebury Press by Penguin Random House India 2021 Copyright © Dr Anupriya Goel 2021 All rights reserved 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The views and opinions expressed in this book are the author’s own and the facts are as reported by her which have been verified to the extent possible, and the publishers are not in any way liable for the same. ISBN 9780143452485 Typeset in Sabon by Manipal Technologies Limited, Manipal Printed at Repro India Ltd.

This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. www.penguin.co.in

This book is dedicated to my two beautiful rays of sunshine. You are the reason I started writing this dream, and we have been part of this journey together And to my husband, for always having faith in me and telling me every single day, ‘There is nothing that you can’t do and you can achieve everything you wish to!’

CONTENTS

1. The Secret to Glass Skin

1

2. Know Your Skin

12

3. How to Cleanse Correctly 

58

4. The Art of Dewy Skin—Hydration and Moisturizing72 5. Make SPF Your BFF 6. The Skincare Superstars: Active Ingredients and Exfoliation 

88 106

7. Magic Potions for Your Skin: Serums, Essences and Facial Oils  134 8. Masking: Supercharge Your Skin

144

9. The Extras: Toners, Face Mists and BB Creams 156 10. How to Treat Problematic Skin

163

11. Your A.M.:P.M. Skincare Routine

197

12. On-the-Go Skincare and Workout Skincare 

215

13. Skincare for Men

223

viii

Contents

14. Superfoods, Supplements and Lifestyle 

230

15. Quick-Fix Recipes: Treatments at the Clinic

249

16. How to Read a Product Label like a Pro 

270

Acknowledgements285

1 THE SECRET TO GLASS SKIN

In 2018, when I was thirty-one years old, I was invited to attend the prestigious conference on thread lifting for the face and the body—MINT (Minimally Invasive Non-Surgical Thread)—held in Seoul, South Korea. I was invited because I was among the few doctors in the world who were conducting thread-lift procedures at my clinic, Berkowits. (The next year, I was one among two speakers from India who were selected and invited by MINT, but I had to turn down the offer because I was in my first trimester of pregnancy, expecting twins, and experiencing nausea and vomiting in double measure. It was impossible for me to take a long-haul flight and then acclimatize to a new environment, even if it was only for a few days.) In the days leading up to my trip, I may have seemed calm on the surface, but those who knew me well knew that I was bursting with excitement inside, because I, an aesthetic dermatologist and medical director of a skincare 1

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Dr Anupriya Goel

chain, was going on my first trip to South Korea— the Mecca of skincare. I was over the moon. Every doctor who specializes in the field of skincare aesthetics looks forward to going to Seoul. For good reason. For many years, the beauty industry in South Korea— or K-beauty, as it is generally called—has dominated the scene. It is one of the major global centres of innovation and trendsetting in beauty products. They’ve truly created some radical products which have made their way across the world and become commonplace in our skincare routines. From BB and CC creams, essences, cushion foundations and overnight sleeping masks to the very popular sheet masks and the infamous ten-step Korean routine, South Korea has led the way in beauty innovation. In fact, the South Korean skincare market is estimated to be twelve–fourteen years ahead of its American counterpart.* It’s not surprising, since the South Korean government also takes a deep interest in this industry and supports its massive research and development (R&D) centres. Other markets are also interested in getting themselves a slice of the K-beauty pie. According to one report, The fast growth in South Korea cosmetic industry has captured the business deal from global cosmetics manufacturers. Top contract manufacturers in South Korea are approached by top players of the world . . . Laura Shin, ‘Inside The Booming Korean Skincare Market’, Fast Company, https://www.fastcompany.com/3038283/why-koreanskincare-is-booming

*

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South Korea cosmetics market is valued at nearly USD 9.29 billion in 2017 and is anticipated to grow at a CAGR of 4.95 per cent during the forecast period 2017-2030.*

The numbers are amazing. I prepped myself for the conference, packed my bags and, soon, was on a flight to South Korea for the three-day affair. I arrived in Seoul, slightly jet-lagged and out of sorts, where I was immediately whisked away to the Ramada Hotel located on the bustling Gangnam Road. After freshening up, I went down to the lobby to meet the other participants with whom I was going out for lunch to a Turkish restaurant at Coex Mall. As we tucked into our pide (Turkish pizza) and falafels, we chatted with each other, gradually breaking the ice. But all through lunch, I could sense something else— the palpable excitement in the air. This was because our next destination was Myeong-dong, one of South Korea’s biggest shopping districts. I have always found it difficult to describe the sheer size and energy of Myeong-dong to those who ask me. It’s like trying to put into words the limitless vistas of Ladakh or the Grand Canyon. Myeong-dong blew me away. It had an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ energy—mad, frenetic, bizarre but utterly joyous. ‘South Korea Cosmetics Market Outlook 2017-2030’, Goldstein Market Intelligence, https://www.goldsteinresearch.com/report/ korean-cosmetics-market-report-south-korea-industry-analysis

*

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There was street upon street of cosmetics and beauty shops, all jostling for attention. Outside these shops, there were hawkers selling clothes and food on thelas, such as ice-cream vendors. Those of us who were visiting Seoul for the first time were stumped by the abundance, the innovation and the genius of the offerings of Myeong-dong. I saw things I’d never seen before. Make-up brushes shaped and packed like roses; and lip glosses and tints packed in mini tin cans, mini bottles of Coca-Cola and Hershey’s syrups, and even in the shape of fruits and animals. K-beauty’s cute packaging and affordable price points make it tempting to load your cart with products, and if you’re not careful, you could easily end up spending all your cash in just one shopping stint. The walls of beauty shops were plastered with endless displays of pigments, while the sheet-mask sections were mind-boggling. One can find anything from hydrogel masks and bio-cellulose masks to acupuncture masks. And don’t even get me started on the ingredient list. After my trip to Seoul, I can safely say that I’ve seen everything. I’m sure you’ve heard of snail slime. But what about salmon eggs and placental extracts? I thought you haven’t. At one point, I walked into a café and was amazed by the sight in front of me. All over the world, a book section or library is the natural companion to a café. But not in Seoul. There, the best complementary accompaniment to a cup of coffee is beauty products! In hindsight, I realized that, yes, of course, all of it made sense. For the South Koreans, skincare is akin to religion. But to limit it to just this aspect is what we often get

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wrong about their culture. Beauty and aesthetics are a way of life for them—it goes beyond just skincare and beauty. Their focus is detail-oriented and permeates every aspect of their lifestyle, from their immaculate food presentation and their minimalist and quirky decor (I visited a restaurant that was set up like a cartoon set) to the way they dress and carry themselves. In the time I spent in South Korea, as I walked down the streets or people-watched at restaurants, I witnessed their obsession with beauty everywhere. After a little digging, I learnt that South Korean society is still deeply influenced by Confucianism, an intellectual philosophy that originated and developed in China during the fifth and sixth centuries BC. And this philosophy has shaped the very lifestyle of the South Koreans. An article I came across explains this idea succinctly: These ideals are considered very noble and deeply inform the culture. For women, to be modest and unadorned has always been a strong Confucian virtue . . . During Korea’s Joseon era, which lasted from the 14th to 19th centuries, the country had its own versions of Japanese geishas, called Kisaengs. These women were the pinnacle of beauty and set all the mainstream make-up trends. Their bold, inky eyebrows and clean, radiant skin inform Korean makeup standards even now.*

*

Amanda Montell, ‘“I Had an Anti­ -Aging Routine at 11”: The Backstory of Korean Beauty’, Byrdie, 16 March 2020, https:// www.byrdie.com/korean-beauty-2016

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So that is why South Korean women focus more on clean, virginal, glowing skin, rather than one that is heavily made-up.

Different Types of Glowing Skin Understanding the South Korean cultural context helps illustrate why the primary emphasis in K-beauty is glowing skin with minimal make-up. As a skin specialist, the proof was in front of me everywhere I went in South Korea. Both girls and women flaunted radiant, glowing skin, free of blemishes. I soon learnt that there were various degrees of flawless skin, with each being assigned its own terminology. The first category is ‘dewy’ skin. This is the most common and popular category. However, a ‘dewy’ appearance is often confused with an oily look. The luminosity of South Korean skin is not due to excessive sebum production but due to good skincare habits and internal health. Then comes ‘honey’ skin, which is a step up from dewy skin. It is another term used for even, transparent and radiant skin. So what is it exactly? Imagine a spoonful of honey melting in your mouth. Smooth, right? ‘Honey’ skin is so shiny, hydrated and plump that it gives the impression of melting right away. The right skincare routine and products are the most important steps to getting such skin. Finally, there is the mother of all skin types—‘glass’ skin, or ‘paani-paani’ skin, as my sister calls it. I was the most intrigued by this term. When I asked someone what they meant by glass skin, I was told, ‘Imagine skin

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7

so flawless and translucent that it shines like a crystal— immaculate, perfect and absolutely transparent. Skin so succulent, radiant and clear that it actually reflects light!’ If this was the ultimate goal for South Koreans, I was surprised to find many, many women with glass skin there. This meant that they had achieved the pinnacle of great skin health, and it left me confounded.

The Secret behind Glass Skin As an aesthetic dermatologist, I know that skin, the largest organ of the human body, is a tricky thing to master. Our skin, or the epidermal barrier, is the outermost layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum. It is made up of dead cells, a keratin-mixed lipid-rich mass that contains cholesterol, free fatty acids and moisture. The skin acts as a protective barrier for the body. Think of it as the Wall in Game of Thrones. Not only does it keep the bad guys out (prevents water loss, protects against heat and cold, and ultraviolet [UV] rays, penetration of infectious substances and infections, etc.), but it also keeps our muscles, veins and internal organs in place. But just like the Wall, our skin is under attack from both internal and external forces every minute of our lives. The skin barrier can become compromised due to many reasons. Some of them are: • Dehydration or lack of moisture • Harsh substances • Excessive washing