Study of Clinical Cosmetology-1 A Hands-on Guide

Study of Clinical Cosmetology-1 A Hands-on Guide

Sonia Tekchandani MBBS DMLS DDV

Consulting Dermatologist Tender Skin International Mumbai, Maharashtra, India Foreword

Manjusha Kuruwa

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Website: www.jaypeebrothers.com Website: www.jaypeedigital.com © 2015, Jaypee Brothers Medical Publishers The views and opinions expressed in this book are solely those of the original contributor(s)/author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of editor(s) of the book. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of the publishers. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. Medical knowledge and practice change constantly. This book is designed to provide accurate, authoritative information about the subject matter in question. However, readers are advised to check the most current information available on procedures included and check information from the manufacturer of each product to be administered, to verify the recommended dose, formula, method and duration of administration, adverse effects and contraindications. It is the responsibility of the practitioner to take all appropriate safety precautions. Neither the publisher nor the author(s)/editor(s) assume any liability for any injury and/or damage to persons or property arising from or related to use of material in this book. This book is sold on the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in providing professional medical services. If such advice or services are required, the services of a competent medical professional should be sought. Every effort has been made where necessary to contact holders of copyright to obtain permission to reproduce copyright material. If any have been inadvertently overlooked, the publisher will be pleased to make the necessary arrangements at the first opportunity. Inquiries for bulk sales may be solicited at: [email protected] Study of Clinical Cosmetology-1: A Hands-on Guide First Edition: 2015 ISBN: 978-93-5152-794-7 Printed at5HSUR,QGLD/WG

Dedicated to All my clients and students who have been my constant source of motivation to keep doing on-going research in the field of cosmetology and medical aesthetics

Foreword It gives me great pleasure to write about a close friend and a great human being on the launch of her first book on clinical cosmetology. Dr Sonia Tekchandani has never been bound to the usually set-things. She keeps the vision and passion of going with the changing trends and the needs of practice years back. She shifted her practice from Nashik to Mumbai 11 years back. She started with a set-up with the basic, then required infrastructure. It had to click as she is very thorough with her subject and always implies innovative ways to put it into gear. She conducted lots of training workshops and awareness programs. Soon, she became a routine part on the glamor channels and magazines. She is one of the few consultants who started a recognized cosmetology center with a bang. Her passion of teaching, knowledge, soft spoken nature, simplicity, sincerity and a comprehensive course curriculum took no long to produce a long list of satisfied doctors who could confidently practise cosmetology. The list also includes a range of doctors whom I had personally referred for training and can vouch for their highly satisfactory experience even today. I had the opportunity to go through this book titled Study of Clinical Cosmetology—A Hands-on Guide. It is very practical, scientific and in a logical format. Her quest for innovation led to set up few clinics in Australia too for cosmetologists. Now she has her brand Tender Skin Clinics in India and UAE. The progress itself speaks about her talent and vision. I am extremely proud for Sonia’s achievement and wish her all the very best for her new release. It will be a great feast to the brain I am sure. Manjusha Kuruwa MD Dermatology

Director Sparsh Derma Centre Mumbai, Maharashtra, India

Preface This book has taken over a decade of fine-tuning and upgradation for me to finally be convinced to publish it. This is the first volume of its 3 volumes that covers the basics of cosmetology and explains the practical aspect in more detail. When I chose to narrow my specialty of practice from core dermatology to cosmetic dermatology back in 2001, it was the lesser-traveled path. Within a few months of setting up my practice, I had many beauty enthusiasts and a few clients too expressing their interest in learning the subject and getting the required know-how to pursue the science of beauty. Teaching comes to me naturally, as I have been a professor for 12 years from the very beginning of my career with NDMVP Samaj Medical College, Adgaon, Nashik, Maharashtra, India, and I love sharing my knowledge and imparting training in my field of expertise. Also, another key reason for setting up professional courses in cosmetology was the lack of technical schools to impart this education back then. It pained to see clients having their skin gone bad with regular facials or parlor treatments not suited for their skin type. There was a clear need gap to educate every beauty consultant at the very grassroot level to understand the basics of skin type analysis and scientific skin care. This is where it all began, the book then was just a few pages of bullet point notes provided to students for reference; but, today, it is a full-fledged volume that covers every subject in extreme detail. The book elaborates how to conduct a procedure from beginning to end. It is a perfect guidebook for all those practising cosmetology already or considering the idea of it. May we together continue to make this world more and more beautiful. Sonia Tekchandani

Acknowledgments There are just too many people to thank here and above them all is my dear husband Deepak. They say ‘behind every successful man, there is a woman’; but, it is definitely the other way round for us. Today, whatever I have achieved is because he had the vision and he pushed me out of my comfort zone each time to make me what I am today. I would also like to extend my sincere gratitude to my entire team at Tender Skin International, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India, who ensured all the proofreading and constant back and forth met the rigorous timelines. Not to forget, Dr Pankaja Naik (Head, Department of Biochemistry, NDMVPS) for encouraging me to publish my book, Dr Manjusha Kuruwa (MD Dermatology) for writing such a heartfelt foreword and supporting me to set up my practice in Mumbai and above all my mentors, Dr Vibhavari Nigale (President, IADVL), Dr Kalpana Sarangi (Head of Cosmetology Department, Nanavati Hospital), Dr Hema Jerajani (former Chief of Dermatology, Sion Hospital, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India), Dr Aman Dua (AK Clinic, New Delhi, India), and Dr Rachita Dhurat (Head, Department of Dermatology, LTM Medical College, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India). A special thank you to my mother, Smt Vijaylakshmi Narsinghani and father, Late Shri Jiwatram Narsinghani; it is because of them that I am a doctor today.

Contents 1. Introduction to Cosmetology ‰‰

Terminologies in Cosmetology  1

2. Skin and Skin Analysis ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

3

Skin 3 Structure of Skin  3 Functions of Skin  8 Skin Analysis  9

3. Chemical Peels ‰‰

1

13

Definition 13 Principles of Chemical Peels  13 Chemical Agents Used for Peeling  13 Types of Peels  13 Different AHAs with their Sources   14 Priming 14 Peel Sensitivity Test  15 Post-peeling Care  16 Other Peels  16 Different Methods of Peel Application  18 Herbal Peels  18 Fruit Peels  19

4. Microdermabrasion 20 ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Types 20 Definition 20 Crystal Microdermabrasion  20 Diamond Microdermabrasion  22 Frequently Asked Questions  23 Complications 24

5. Iontophoresis 25 ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Definition 25 Skin Type  25 Procedure 25 Benefits 26 Contraindications 26 Precautions for Iontophoresis  27 Desincrustation 27

6. Electroporation and Ultrasound ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Introduction to Electroporation  29 Introduction to Ultrasound  30 Benefits of Electroporation and Ultrasound  30

29

Study of Clinical Cosmetology—A Hands-on Guide

xiv ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Indications of Electroporation and Ultrasound  31 Contraindications of Ultrasound  31 Contraindications of Electroporation  32 Procedure 32

7. High Frequency ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

33

Action 33 Benefits 33 Indications   33 The Machine  34 Indications 35 Benefits 35 Procedure 35 Precautions 36 Contraindications 36

8. Serums 37 ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Lifting Serum  37 Regenerating Serum  37 Hydrating Serum  37 SulforaWhite 38 NanoWhite 38 Eye Depuffing Serum  39 Hyaluronic Acid  39 Vitamin C  39 Coenzyme Q10   39 Stem Cells  39 Minoxidil 39 Finasteride 40 Biotin 40 Venofresh 40 Glutathione 40 Indications of Serums  40

9. Modified Blend ‰‰ ‰‰

10. SuperPulse Facelift ‰‰ ‰‰

41

Electrolysis and Thermolysis  41 Blend 42

44

Signs of Aging  44 The “Nonsurgical Facelift”   44

11. Radiocautery 49 ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Warts 49 Moles 49 Specifications 51 Radiofrequency Surgery Offers  51 Cut and Coagulation Blend  52

12. Stretch Marks ‰‰ ‰‰

Causes of Stretch Marks  54 Common Sites of Stretch Marks  54

54

Contents ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Symptoms 54 Treatment 54 Prevention 55

13. Dark Circles ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

xv

56

Periorbital Melanosis  56 Diagnostic Test for Dark Circles  56 Modalities of Treatment  56 Consultation 57 Peels (Steps)  57

14. Sunscreens 59 ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰ ‰‰

Active Sunscreen Ingredients  59 UVB Protectants  60 UVA Protectants  60 Use and Effectiveness: Suggested SPF  61

15. Nonsurgical Earlobe Repair ‰‰

Tender Skin Cosmetology Academy ‰‰ ‰‰

64

Procedure 64

65

Our Student Endorsements  65 Student Testimonials  67

Index 73

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