POLESTAR Hokkaidō

April 2023

Editor’s Note

April 2023

Dear Readers, April is here and so is spring! Hokkaido is finally (though slowly) warming up and soon the island will be enveloped in greenery. Towards the end of the month, sakura will begin to bloom! This is later than anywhere else in Japan, but you might be able to say that nature saves the best for last.

Editor Abigail Edwards Designer Jennifer Pierce Front cover photo Abigail Edwards Back cover photo Michael Brunozzi Calendar photo Neil Nicerio



All photos are by the authors of the articles unless otherwise noted. Stock photos/illustrations are courtesy of Pexels.com and Canva.com. Polestar is a HAJET publication.



Since winter lasts so long in Hokkaido, the cherry blossoms are especially striking to me. Once all the snow melts, temperatures rise, and the trees and flowers begin to splash color across the prefecture, nature puts on quite a show. I hope you enjoy the onset of spring as much as you did all the winter fun! In this issue of Polestar, we will read one perspective of having tattoos and piercings whilst living in Japan, learn about a small town restaurant and its tenacity during the COVID-19 pandemic, and dive into the southwestern town of Shiriuchi. Thank you to all of our contributors for helping to create another great issue of Polestar. It is always a pleasure to work alongside such talented individuals to craft these publications. Enjoy the April 2023 issue of Polestar magazine!

Photo by Abigail Edwards

In This Issue... EVENTS CALENDAR

AROUND THE 'DO





4

April Festivals & Events

22 Shiriuchi

HAJET NEWS

GALLERY



6

Book Spotlight





8

Get Connected

32 Gallery

HOKKAIDO LIVING & BEYOND

Sincerely,



Abigail Edwards Editor

10

Lifestyles of the Tatted



and Not So Famous

18



Yoshizumi: A Historic Soba Shop in the Heart of

Betsukai

2

Editor's Note

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

3

Editor’s Note

April 2023

Dear Readers, April is here and so is spring! Hokkaido is finally (though slowly) warming up and soon the island will be enveloped in greenery. Towards the end of the month, sakura will begin to bloom! This is later than anywhere else in Japan, but you might be able to say that nature saves the best for last.

Editor Abigail Edwards Designer Jennifer Pierce Front cover photo Abigail Edwards Back cover photo Michael Brunozzi Calendar photo Neil Nicerio



All photos are by the authors of the articles unless otherwise noted. Stock photos/illustrations are courtesy of Pexels.com and Canva.com. Polestar is a HAJET publication.



Since winter lasts so long in Hokkaido, the cherry blossoms are especially striking to me. Once all the snow melts, temperatures rise, and the trees and flowers begin to splash color across the prefecture, nature puts on quite a show. I hope you enjoy the onset of spring as much as you did all the winter fun! In this issue of Polestar, we will read one perspective of having tattoos and piercings whilst living in Japan, learn about a small town restaurant and its tenacity during the COVID-19 pandemic, and dive into the southwestern town of Shiriuchi. Thank you to all of our contributors for helping to create another great issue of Polestar. It is always a pleasure to work alongside such talented individuals to craft these publications. Enjoy the April 2023 issue of Polestar magazine!

Photo by Abigail Edwards

In This Issue... EVENTS CALENDAR

AROUND THE 'DO





4

April Festivals & Events

22 Shiriuchi

HAJET NEWS

GALLERY



6

Book Spotlight





8

Get Connected

32 Gallery

HOKKAIDO LIVING & BEYOND

Sincerely,



Abigail Edwards Editor

10

Lifestyles of the Tatted



and Not So Famous

18



Yoshizumi: A Historic Soba Shop in the Heart of

Betsukai

2

Editor's Note

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

3

CALEN D A R O F EVENT S

Compiled by Armi Henriksson

日・Sun

月・Mon

火・Tue

A p r i l 2023

水・Wed

木・Thu

*This information is accurate as of March 31, 2023. Please double-check that the events have not been canceled before attending. Check with the Prefectural Advisor for information on additional events. Many events are on-going.

金・Fri

土・Sat 1

2

Judo Festival - Kushiro City

3

4

5

6

7

8 Kuriyama Shinise Festival START: Jouzankei Onsen Keiryuu Koinobori - Sapporo

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16 Akabira Orchid Festival

17

18

19

20

21

22

Kuriyama Shinise Festival

Akabira Orchid Festival

Bifuka Birch Sap Spring Festival

23

Early Spring Bird Watching Shibecha Town START: 75th Annual Matsumae Cherry Blossom Festival

24

25

26

27

28

29

START: Kushiro Shitsugen Norokko Train START: 74th Annual Mori Town Cherry Blossom Festival

30 4

Akabira Orchid Festival

Calendar of Events

POLESTAR | DECEMBER 2022

5

CALEN D A R O F EVENT S

Compiled by Armi Henriksson

日・Sun

月・Mon

火・Tue

A p r i l 2023

水・Wed

木・Thu

*This information is accurate as of March 31, 2023. Please double-check that the events have not been canceled before attending. Check with the Prefectural Advisor for information on additional events. Many events are on-going.

金・Fri

土・Sat 1

2

Judo Festival - Kushiro City

3

4

5

6

7

8 Kuriyama Shinise Festival START: Jouzankei Onsen Keiryuu Koinobori - Sapporo

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16 Akabira Orchid Festival

17

18

19

20

21

22

Kuriyama Shinise Festival

Akabira Orchid Festival

Bifuka Birch Sap Spring Festival

23

Early Spring Bird Watching Shibecha Town START: 75th Annual Matsumae Cherry Blossom Festival

24

25

26

27

28

29

START: Kushiro Shitsugen Norokko Train START: 74th Annual Mori Town Cherry Blossom Festival

30 4

Akabira Orchid Festival

Calendar of Events

POLESTAR | DECEMBER 2022

5

Ashley St. Charles | HAJET Bookseller

“ You only need one ray of light to chase all the shadows away.” Ove has strict routines, staunch principles, and a short fuse. Nicknamed "the neighbor from hell," Ove can be a little difficult to get to know and deal with. However, underneath this tough exterior lies a man who has taken some hard knocks in life, and it takes a flattened mailbox, some chatty neighbors, and an unexpected friendship to really crack Ove's

6

exterior. Fredrik Backman delivers this hilarious novel, which was recently made into a film starring Tom Hanks! If you would like to purchase this novel or another one, feel free to get in contact with me. If you'd like to check out the other books on sale, here is the link to the bookstore! Happy Reading!

Book Spotlight

Ashley St. Charles | HAJET Bookseller

“ You only need one ray of light to chase all the shadows away.” Ove has strict routines, staunch principles, and a short fuse. Nicknamed "the neighbor from hell," Ove can be a little difficult to get to know and deal with. However, underneath this tough exterior lies a man who has taken some hard knocks in life, and it takes a flattened mailbox, some chatty neighbors, and an unexpected friendship to really crack Ove's

6

exterior. Fredrik Backman delivers this hilarious novel, which was recently made into a film starring Tom Hanks! If you would like to purchase this novel or another one, feel free to get in contact with me. If you'd like to check out the other books on sale, here is the link to the bookstore! Happy Reading!

Book Spotlight

Get Connected with HAJET!

8

Get Connected

Learn more about HAJET via our website here!

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

9

Get Connected with HAJET!

8

Get Connected

Learn more about HAJET via our website here!

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

9

he title of this article should really include the word ‘pierced’ as well, but it did not flow with the song by the band Good Charlotte (“Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” for anyone interested) that ran through my head while writing this little commentary on life in Japan from the perspective of a person who is heavily tattooed compared to most - but not all - ALTs, who has multiple piercings, and has lived here for over 6 years. To start, I shall say “Kiaora” and give you a little backstory. I arrived in Japan in 2017 at the end of January as an Alternate ALT on the JET Programme from New Zealand

T

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

(essentially a Schrödinger’s ALT before then due to the “you’re in but not in, and maybe you’re going but not going” nature of it all). But, I’m here now so it worked out. I knew close to no Japanese and fumbled a lot (I still do, but with the style of a three year old) and I always had a fear of what could happen if my tattoos were spotted when they were on display or peeking through my long-sleeved shirts. I heard stories about such events, and whether or not they’re true, I couldn’t help but be cautious about everything. Fast forward to now and I’m running around my schools with my tattoos showing in the warmer months, having all my piercings

11

he title of this article should really include the word ‘pierced’ as well, but it did not flow with the song by the band Good Charlotte (“Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” for anyone interested) that ran through my head while writing this little commentary on life in Japan from the perspective of a person who is heavily tattooed compared to most - but not all - ALTs, who has multiple piercings, and has lived here for over 6 years. To start, I shall say “Kiaora” and give you a little backstory. I arrived in Japan in 2017 at the end of January as an Alternate ALT on the JET Programme from New Zealand

T

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

(essentially a Schrödinger’s ALT before then due to the “you’re in but not in, and maybe you’re going but not going” nature of it all). But, I’m here now so it worked out. I knew close to no Japanese and fumbled a lot (I still do, but with the style of a three year old) and I always had a fear of what could happen if my tattoos were spotted when they were on display or peeking through my long-sleeved shirts. I heard stories about such events, and whether or not they’re true, I couldn’t help but be cautious about everything. Fast forward to now and I’m running around my schools with my tattoos showing in the warmer months, having all my piercings

11

show, and also having my hair dyed every so often. Can anyone do this while working here in Japan? Probably not. I was very fortunate that I was placed in Otaru and that all my coworkers have been amazing thus far. But, we will get to that. So, how did I get to this point: from being conservatively dressed to just being me, the carefree Kiwi? In the beginning, there was a lot of planning. I researched much about life in Japan, from living costs to school life, and then - of course - to living with tattoos and piercings. It was already hard enough being a

12

female who likes to wear suits and ties, and I was told to leave my ties behind because people wouldn’t understand it. I was gutted because I love my ties, and though I am very tomboy-ish, that shouldn’t matter. Anyway, the other major topic that came up during my research was the issue of tattoos. I have a lot of tattoos and I didn’t know what to do. I realized that if I were to be placed on the main island of Honshu, I would struggle with the heat because I would have to wear long sleeves the entire time. So, I put Sapporo as my number one desired location when I got the interview.

Lifestyles of the Tatted and Not So Famous

On top of that, once it was confirmed that I got in, I had to research places I could go in shorts and t-shirts, like USJ (Universal Studios Japan), Disneyland and Sea, the beach, onsen, sento, gyms, buses, etc. I was really worried. As many people who come to Japan will know, tattoos and piercings are oftentimes particularly taboo, as tattoo culture moved from something that the samurai of old had to something that prisoners or criminals would have as an indicator of their region and crime. Because of that image, if you’re tatted and walk around with them showing, people tend to stare at you more, point at you, and occasionally avoid sitting next to you on the train, which is

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

actually somewhat of a godsend for me in the summer because it means I can doze off comfortably as I commute to Sapporo from my beloved Otaru. Going to theme parks means you have to carry a spare jersey and leggings or have tattoo coverings just in case someone complains. You also face prejudice from some of the older generation (mostly men in my case) who like to be surly at you even when it’s obvious that you’re not actually Japanese (despite my misleading face and me telling them a billion times that I’m a Kiwi). Joining a gym is difficult and trying to enjoy an onsen can be even harder. But, it all can be done. While I see the hilarity of the gaijin-smash way of life, there is

13

show, and also having my hair dyed every so often. Can anyone do this while working here in Japan? Probably not. I was very fortunate that I was placed in Otaru and that all my coworkers have been amazing thus far. But, we will get to that. So, how did I get to this point: from being conservatively dressed to just being me, the carefree Kiwi? In the beginning, there was a lot of planning. I researched much about life in Japan, from living costs to school life, and then - of course - to living with tattoos and piercings. It was already hard enough being a

12

female who likes to wear suits and ties, and I was told to leave my ties behind because people wouldn’t understand it. I was gutted because I love my ties, and though I am very tomboy-ish, that shouldn’t matter. Anyway, the other major topic that came up during my research was the issue of tattoos. I have a lot of tattoos and I didn’t know what to do. I realized that if I were to be placed on the main island of Honshu, I would struggle with the heat because I would have to wear long sleeves the entire time. So, I put Sapporo as my number one desired location when I got the interview.

Lifestyles of the Tatted and Not So Famous

On top of that, once it was confirmed that I got in, I had to research places I could go in shorts and t-shirts, like USJ (Universal Studios Japan), Disneyland and Sea, the beach, onsen, sento, gyms, buses, etc. I was really worried. As many people who come to Japan will know, tattoos and piercings are oftentimes particularly taboo, as tattoo culture moved from something that the samurai of old had to something that prisoners or criminals would have as an indicator of their region and crime. Because of that image, if you’re tatted and walk around with them showing, people tend to stare at you more, point at you, and occasionally avoid sitting next to you on the train, which is

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

actually somewhat of a godsend for me in the summer because it means I can doze off comfortably as I commute to Sapporo from my beloved Otaru. Going to theme parks means you have to carry a spare jersey and leggings or have tattoo coverings just in case someone complains. You also face prejudice from some of the older generation (mostly men in my case) who like to be surly at you even when it’s obvious that you’re not actually Japanese (despite my misleading face and me telling them a billion times that I’m a Kiwi). Joining a gym is difficult and trying to enjoy an onsen can be even harder. But, it all can be done. While I see the hilarity of the gaijin-smash way of life, there is

13

a certain level of it that I do not enjoy, especially when it comes to pushing your wants and needs above a culture you choose to live in. Yes, it is important to share and show that not all pierced, tattooed, and hair-dyed people are delinquents, but it’s also important to show that you will follow the rules and be respectful. Places like onsen and sento are there for everyone to enjoy and be able to relax. After I arrived in Japan and spent the night in a hotel, I suited up and was soon whisked away

to what would become my base city. School life began and I found myself almost boiling in the classrooms as they were heated to the max, yet the corridors were left to sub-zero freezing in winter. I never understood that. As summer rolled by, it got insanely hot and it was during one enkai with one of my schools that my tattoos were discovered, because - in my folly - I rolled up my sleeves and shocked my coworkers. It may be an odd concept to non-tattooed people, but sometimes you just forget that you have tattoos as you get so

used to them. Long story short, one of my JTEs asked me if I wanted to be able to wear short sleeves in the summer, and I told him that I’d love to but I also understood the rules and knew that many wouldn’t be comfortable with it. Less than two weeks later, I was approached by my principal and JTE, and they told me that from now on if it was too hot, I could wear short sleeves. So, I did (and my second school heard about it and extended the same offer). Of course, with great “power” comes great

“responsibility.” Because the students were now exposed to my tattoos, it was important to educate them on the ins and outs of tattoo culture, the process of it all, the aftercare involved, etc. My piercings were also a big topic of discussion because the kids had never met a teacher especially an Asian one - that was tattooed and pierced to this extent. But, I did enjoy the dialogue. It was also a good chance to have the kids realize that these things were more than just appearing to be cool, which I most certainly am not; it is a form

"It may be an odd concept to non-tattooed people, but sometimes you just forget that you have tattoos as you get so used to them." 14

Lifestyles of the Tatted and Not So Famous

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

15

a certain level of it that I do not enjoy, especially when it comes to pushing your wants and needs above a culture you choose to live in. Yes, it is important to share and show that not all pierced, tattooed, and hair-dyed people are delinquents, but it’s also important to show that you will follow the rules and be respectful. Places like onsen and sento are there for everyone to enjoy and be able to relax. After I arrived in Japan and spent the night in a hotel, I suited up and was soon whisked away

to what would become my base city. School life began and I found myself almost boiling in the classrooms as they were heated to the max, yet the corridors were left to sub-zero freezing in winter. I never understood that. As summer rolled by, it got insanely hot and it was during one enkai with one of my schools that my tattoos were discovered, because - in my folly - I rolled up my sleeves and shocked my coworkers. It may be an odd concept to non-tattooed people, but sometimes you just forget that you have tattoos as you get so

used to them. Long story short, one of my JTEs asked me if I wanted to be able to wear short sleeves in the summer, and I told him that I’d love to but I also understood the rules and knew that many wouldn’t be comfortable with it. Less than two weeks later, I was approached by my principal and JTE, and they told me that from now on if it was too hot, I could wear short sleeves. So, I did (and my second school heard about it and extended the same offer). Of course, with great “power” comes great

“responsibility.” Because the students were now exposed to my tattoos, it was important to educate them on the ins and outs of tattoo culture, the process of it all, the aftercare involved, etc. My piercings were also a big topic of discussion because the kids had never met a teacher especially an Asian one - that was tattooed and pierced to this extent. But, I did enjoy the dialogue. It was also a good chance to have the kids realize that these things were more than just appearing to be cool, which I most certainly am not; it is a form

"It may be an odd concept to non-tattooed people, but sometimes you just forget that you have tattoos as you get so used to them." 14

Lifestyles of the Tatted and Not So Famous

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

15

of self-expression. It was also important to discuss the care they must take and how the way they could be treated in their futures must also be taken into consideration. I have joined a gym here and I’ve gone to onsen. With the gym, I had a friend who vouched for me, and as the gym was new and needed people to come, they said that I would be fine to join them and work out at the machines. The perks of the gym being small and close to one of my schools was that the adults working out would see me interact with their kids, who sometimes would come to children’s workshop, and realize that the “scary tattooed lady” is actually a goofball whom the children aren’t afraid of and

just talk to normally. For onsen, I always call ahead and check just in case because there is nothing more embarrassing than arriving and realizing you can’t even get in, or you get in and suddenly someone walks up to you when you’re naked and asks you to kindly leave. Overall, on the Japan end, I’ve actually had a mostly positive experience when it comes to my ink. Most people are genuinely curious and will either comment about how they think my designs are pretty or ask how to get it done (the tattoo-friendly onsen I went to in Noboribetsu takes the cake for the funniest place at which I got approached about my tattoos by a curious person). As for piercings, they are all just

highly amused that I have so many. But, I’m not asked about those as much. For those interested, if you want to buy clear piercings so that you can take out metal ones and have place holders, Amazon Japan does have them. Same goes

with tattoo coverings for arms and legs. I have also included a couple of links to help people navigate tattoo-friendly locations in Hokkaido and beyond. Have an awesome day.

Links

Tattoo Friendly

ly d n e i r F o o t t a 30 T Onsen in Japan 16

Lifestyles of the Tatted and Not So Famous

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

Illustrations courtesy of Canva.com

17

of self-expression. It was also important to discuss the care they must take and how the way they could be treated in their futures must also be taken into consideration. I have joined a gym here and I’ve gone to onsen. With the gym, I had a friend who vouched for me, and as the gym was new and needed people to come, they said that I would be fine to join them and work out at the machines. The perks of the gym being small and close to one of my schools was that the adults working out would see me interact with their kids, who sometimes would come to children’s workshop, and realize that the “scary tattooed lady” is actually a goofball whom the children aren’t afraid of and

just talk to normally. For onsen, I always call ahead and check just in case because there is nothing more embarrassing than arriving and realizing you can’t even get in, or you get in and suddenly someone walks up to you when you’re naked and asks you to kindly leave. Overall, on the Japan end, I’ve actually had a mostly positive experience when it comes to my ink. Most people are genuinely curious and will either comment about how they think my designs are pretty or ask how to get it done (the tattoo-friendly onsen I went to in Noboribetsu takes the cake for the funniest place at which I got approached about my tattoos by a curious person). As for piercings, they are all just

highly amused that I have so many. But, I’m not asked about those as much. For those interested, if you want to buy clear piercings so that you can take out metal ones and have place holders, Amazon Japan does have them. Same goes

with tattoo coverings for arms and legs. I have also included a couple of links to help people navigate tattoo-friendly locations in Hokkaido and beyond. Have an awesome day.

Links

Tattoo Friendly

ly d n e i r F o o t t a 30 T Onsen in Japan 16

Lifestyles of the Tatted and Not So Famous

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

Illustrations courtesy of Canva.com

17

W

alking into the restaurant Yoshizumi Soba may seem unassuming at first. But, this charming family-run establishment has a rich history and a dining experience that has been refined to perfection by Japanese standards. I sat down with the son of this family team, Kakuta Mitsuhiro, to speak about what life is like running a soba shop, his large manga collection within the store, and how the

The service and food has been refined to an art over the time Yoshizumi has been around. pandemic has affected the business over the past few years. Today, Yoshizumi is run by Kakuta, his parents, his wife, and her sister. The business has been in family hands since it was first started over 40 years ago. The interior appears largely unchanged since its opening in 1977, keeping a traditionally Japanese aesthetic. As one of the few major restaurants in Betsukai, it has earned a solid reputation for delicious soba

18

Yoshizumi

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

amongst those living here. These days, the most popular items are the four soba sets, which

cost roughly 1,200 yen. These sets come with hot or cold soba and a choice of oyakodon, gyudon, or tendon (for an extra 200 yen). Alternatively, an udon set is also available. When seated, you are given a cup of black tea and some time to peruse the menu. The service and food has been refined to an art over the time Yoshizumi has been around. Kakuta and his family harmoniously prepare the meals together and serve them up quickly. The soba is consistently great and the other dishes shine in their own right. For Kakuta, preparation starts at 8am and the restaurant is open from 11am until 6:30pm. When he is not cooking up soba, Kakuta can sometimes be spotted reading manga while waiting for his next customer. In fact, the hundreds of manga volumes that are collected

19

W

alking into the restaurant Yoshizumi Soba may seem unassuming at first. But, this charming family-run establishment has a rich history and a dining experience that has been refined to perfection by Japanese standards. I sat down with the son of this family team, Kakuta Mitsuhiro, to speak about what life is like running a soba shop, his large manga collection within the store, and how the

The service and food has been refined to an art over the time Yoshizumi has been around. pandemic has affected the business over the past few years. Today, Yoshizumi is run by Kakuta, his parents, his wife, and her sister. The business has been in family hands since it was first started over 40 years ago. The interior appears largely unchanged since its opening in 1977, keeping a traditionally Japanese aesthetic. As one of the few major restaurants in Betsukai, it has earned a solid reputation for delicious soba

18

Yoshizumi

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

amongst those living here. These days, the most popular items are the four soba sets, which

cost roughly 1,200 yen. These sets come with hot or cold soba and a choice of oyakodon, gyudon, or tendon (for an extra 200 yen). Alternatively, an udon set is also available. When seated, you are given a cup of black tea and some time to peruse the menu. The service and food has been refined to an art over the time Yoshizumi has been around. Kakuta and his family harmoniously prepare the meals together and serve them up quickly. The soba is consistently great and the other dishes shine in their own right. For Kakuta, preparation starts at 8am and the restaurant is open from 11am until 6:30pm. When he is not cooking up soba, Kakuta can sometimes be spotted reading manga while waiting for his next customer. In fact, the hundreds of manga volumes that are collected

19

Yoshizumi's interior

Many spaces remain empty as the effects of the pandemic linger over the shop

Yoshizumi’s spacious traditional interior

Towers of manga by the entrance

around the shop come from Kakuta’s own collection. After he finishes reading a volume, he puts it out for customers to enjoy. Aside from the fantastic food, being able to read the full series of Slam Dunk and Naruto provides a great excuse to visit the shop. Kakuta’s current favourite series is Tokyo Revengers. He takes great pride in his work and enjoys making soba; however, it is not without its difficulties and running the shop is tiring work. Kakuta told me that before the pandemic, the shop was very different. The shop has room to serve many customers, but nowadays it is rare to see more than two or three parties at a time. Before Japan’s three-year long struggle with restrictions and social pressures, the shop was much busier with less empty tables. Even now with

Kakuta Mitsuhiro

Illustrations courtesy of Canva.com

Yoshizumi’s exterior Gyudon set for 1,200

20

restrictions having been lifted, things have yet to return to the way they were pre-pandemic. Kakuta doesn’t seem hopeful that things will be changing any time soon either. Kakuta and his family’s soba shop may not be a rarity in Japan, but they have perfected the traditional eating experience. However, with the impact of the last three years still lingering over the shop, family businesses in the countryside appear to be more affected than ever. Despite this, Kakuta and his family remain steadfast in the face of this struggle and can be found happily preparing soba most days. If you find yourself in Betsukai or want soba, be sure to give them a visit.

Yoshizumi

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

Tempura teishokuyen

21

Yoshizumi's interior

Many spaces remain empty as the effects of the pandemic linger over the shop

Yoshizumi’s spacious traditional interior

Towers of manga by the entrance

around the shop come from Kakuta’s own collection. After he finishes reading a volume, he puts it out for customers to enjoy. Aside from the fantastic food, being able to read the full series of Slam Dunk and Naruto provides a great excuse to visit the shop. Kakuta’s current favourite series is Tokyo Revengers. He takes great pride in his work and enjoys making soba; however, it is not without its difficulties and running the shop is tiring work. Kakuta told me that before the pandemic, the shop was very different. The shop has room to serve many customers, but nowadays it is rare to see more than two or three parties at a time. Before Japan’s three-year long struggle with restrictions and social pressures, the shop was much busier with less empty tables. Even now with

Kakuta Mitsuhiro

Illustrations courtesy of Canva.com

Yoshizumi’s exterior Gyudon set for 1,200

20

restrictions having been lifted, things have yet to return to the way they were pre-pandemic. Kakuta doesn’t seem hopeful that things will be changing any time soon either. Kakuta and his family’s soba shop may not be a rarity in Japan, but they have perfected the traditional eating experience. However, with the impact of the last three years still lingering over the shop, family businesses in the countryside appear to be more affected than ever. Despite this, Kakuta and his family remain steadfast in the face of this struggle and can be found happily preparing soba most days. If you find yourself in Betsukai or want soba, be sure to give them a visit.

Yoshizumi

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

Tempura teishokuyen

21

Arou

n

Shinkansen track

Shiriuchi Henry White

W

hen I came to Shiriuchi to work as an ALT seven months ago, I faced a triple culture shock challenge as a Los Angeles native: adapting to Japanese culture, adjusting to the pace of rural life, and surviving actual weather. Having lived in Kyoto before for a few months, I wanted to experience rural Japan after I briefly visited a rural town and was shocked at how different the vibe felt from the big city.

22

d

the ’Do

知 内 町 So far, I’ve really enjoyed the warmth of the community, proximity to nature, and the feeling of being welcome rather than bothersome. I’ve grown quite fond of what might at first seem to be just another rural Hokkaido town, and I hope to share with you a slice of what makes Shiriuchi special. Shiriuchi is a small coastal town on the Oshima Peninsula in southern

Around The 'Do

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

23

Arou

n

Shinkansen track

Shiriuchi Henry White

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hen I came to Shiriuchi to work as an ALT seven months ago, I faced a triple culture shock challenge as a Los Angeles native: adapting to Japanese culture, adjusting to the pace of rural life, and surviving actual weather. Having lived in Kyoto before for a few months, I wanted to experience rural Japan after I briefly visited a rural town and was shocked at how different the vibe felt from the big city.

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the ’Do

知 内 町 So far, I’ve really enjoyed the warmth of the community, proximity to nature, and the feeling of being welcome rather than bothersome. I’ve grown quite fond of what might at first seem to be just another rural Hokkaido town, and I hope to share with you a slice of what makes Shiriuchi special. Shiriuchi is a small coastal town on the Oshima Peninsula in southern

Around The 'Do

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Hokkaido just south of Hakodate. With a population of about 4,000 residents, its primary industries are agriculture and fishing. The town’s specialties are oysters and Chinese chives, which are represented by dual mascots Kakitarou, an anthropomorphic oyster carrying an ominous knife, and Nirara, a Chinese girl holding none other than a Chinese chive. The unusual Clouds over the mountains

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reading of the kanji 知内 (し りうち, Shiriuchi) that make up the town’s name is derived from the Ainu phrase “cir oci”, meaning a place with an abundance of birds. This is not referencing any old birds, but falcons, which were captured in the Shiriuchi area by the Matsumae clan to be given to the Tokugawa shogunate. Even today, falcons can often be seen in the town environs; however, capturing them is

Nirara & Kakitarou |Photo Credit

Around the 'Do

not advised. The town’s most famous native is undoubtedly Saburou Kitajima, one of Japan’s premier enka singers. This fact is hard to miss, as his iconic visage adorns the town’s welcome sign and intersection marker flags. He also has a dedicated room in the town hall to display photos of his childhood and his albums. The evening chime is even a music box version of his hit

enka anthem “Yosaku.” This enka legend is joined in the ranks of Shiriuchi-related musicians by the Hamburger Boys, a band that often produces songs for various towns and agencies around northern Japan and Hokkaido, like nearby Matsumae and Oshamanbe. Their song about Shiriuchi, "Shiriuchi U know" is absolutely worth a listen, so check it out! The michi-no-eki

Snowy evening

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Hokkaido just south of Hakodate. With a population of about 4,000 residents, its primary industries are agriculture and fishing. The town’s specialties are oysters and Chinese chives, which are represented by dual mascots Kakitarou, an anthropomorphic oyster carrying an ominous knife, and Nirara, a Chinese girl holding none other than a Chinese chive. The unusual Clouds over the mountains

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reading of the kanji 知内 (し りうち, Shiriuchi) that make up the town’s name is derived from the Ainu phrase “cir oci”, meaning a place with an abundance of birds. This is not referencing any old birds, but falcons, which were captured in the Shiriuchi area by the Matsumae clan to be given to the Tokugawa shogunate. Even today, falcons can often be seen in the town environs; however, capturing them is

Nirara & Kakitarou |Photo Credit

Around the 'Do

not advised. The town’s most famous native is undoubtedly Saburou Kitajima, one of Japan’s premier enka singers. This fact is hard to miss, as his iconic visage adorns the town’s welcome sign and intersection marker flags. He also has a dedicated room in the town hall to display photos of his childhood and his albums. The evening chime is even a music box version of his hit

enka anthem “Yosaku.” This enka legend is joined in the ranks of Shiriuchi-related musicians by the Hamburger Boys, a band that often produces songs for various towns and agencies around northern Japan and Hokkaido, like nearby Matsumae and Oshamanbe. Their song about Shiriuchi, "Shiriuchi U know" is absolutely worth a listen, so check it out! The michi-no-eki

Snowy evening

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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a strikingly long, straight road lined with blossoming sakura in the spring. Shiriuchi is also home to the oldest onsen in Hokkaido, the Utopia Warakuen Onsen Inn, and the southernmost 7/11 in Hokkaido (much to the dismay of the more southerly towns of Matsumae and Fukushima). The local museum exhibits a collection of Jomon period pottery and artifacts

unearthed in the area, as well as displays with tools and craft historically used for farming and fishing in the area. When I went, I was the only visitor and received a personal tour of the whole museum, which definitely put my Japanese comprehension to the test to say the least. When I need a break from the rural lifestyle, comforts like Starbucks and Round One

View of Shiriuchi from Omonai shrine viewing platform and Omonai Sakura road Shinkansen tracks seen from the michi-no-eki

includes a local, beloved bakery and an observation platform that overlooks the shinkansen rails that pass through the town after emerging from the 54 kilometer Seikan Tunnel in nearby Fukushima. Aspiring trainspotters are assisted by a handy timetable, and even if you show up at a random time, it probably won’t be much longer than 20 minutes to see the next train. Adorable

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plushies of the town mascots can be purchased at the michino-eki, as well as delicious chive-flavored cookies and local produce. Another viewing platform positioned on a hillside is accessible by a very windy road or a staircase with 200 steps as part of the Omonai Shrine. It provides an iconic view of the town, Mt. Hakodate, Aomori Prefecture, and the Omonai Sakura Road,

Around the 'Do

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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a strikingly long, straight road lined with blossoming sakura in the spring. Shiriuchi is also home to the oldest onsen in Hokkaido, the Utopia Warakuen Onsen Inn, and the southernmost 7/11 in Hokkaido (much to the dismay of the more southerly towns of Matsumae and Fukushima). The local museum exhibits a collection of Jomon period pottery and artifacts

unearthed in the area, as well as displays with tools and craft historically used for farming and fishing in the area. When I went, I was the only visitor and received a personal tour of the whole museum, which definitely put my Japanese comprehension to the test to say the least. When I need a break from the rural lifestyle, comforts like Starbucks and Round One

View of Shiriuchi from Omonai shrine viewing platform and Omonai Sakura road Shinkansen tracks seen from the michi-no-eki

includes a local, beloved bakery and an observation platform that overlooks the shinkansen rails that pass through the town after emerging from the 54 kilometer Seikan Tunnel in nearby Fukushima. Aspiring trainspotters are assisted by a handy timetable, and even if you show up at a random time, it probably won’t be much longer than 20 minutes to see the next train. Adorable

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plushies of the town mascots can be purchased at the michino-eki, as well as delicious chive-flavored cookies and local produce. Another viewing platform positioned on a hillside is accessible by a very windy road or a staircase with 200 steps as part of the Omonai Shrine. It provides an iconic view of the town, Mt. Hakodate, Aomori Prefecture, and the Omonai Sakura Road,

Around the 'Do

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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The new highway to Hakodate

are a 45 minute drive away thanks to a newly built tollfree highway. Bus routes are available, but don’t expect to catch the last bus at midnight, as service ends around 5 or 6pm. There is also no train station in town, but you can take the train as far south as Kikonai, which is only 10 minutes by car from Shiriuchi.

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This is probably Shiriuchi’s biggest weakness, and I had a lot of trouble getting around before I got my car. However, as long as you have access to a car, the proximity to Hakodate puts Shiriuchi in a bit of a golden zone, where you can access the convenience and entertainment of the city while enjoying the laid back

Around the 'Do

atmosphere of the countryside. When it comes to food, Shiriuchi doesn’t have a Starbucks or Lucky Pierrot, but it more than makes up for this with a selection of friendly, local izakaya and eateries to explore. My favorite is definitely Donkoro, a relaxed and family-run izakaya with two private tatami rooms that are usually available on a first come, first serve basis, plus a large table and a bar. The food is always delicious; highlights of the menu include the karaage, fried squid rings, and yakisoba. It was here that I fell in love with budou sours, but all the sour flavors are excellent with perfectly balanced sweetness and flavor. When it comes time to retire, you can expect the owner to be ready to drive you home. If all of this doesn’t convince you or you feel up to a bit of izakaya-hopping, next door lies the slightly more upscale Wasabi, which

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

harbors a colosseum-esque ring of private tatami rooms. Just down the street is Mashiro, the local sushi place with highquality sushi platters for a very reasonable price. A ways down the main road, you can find Kakigoya, a great lunchtime option that specializes in oysters and chives. Across the road is Poem, a small restaurant with a big menu. The pizzas are a wonderful Donkoro fare

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The new highway to Hakodate

are a 45 minute drive away thanks to a newly built tollfree highway. Bus routes are available, but don’t expect to catch the last bus at midnight, as service ends around 5 or 6pm. There is also no train station in town, but you can take the train as far south as Kikonai, which is only 10 minutes by car from Shiriuchi.

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This is probably Shiriuchi’s biggest weakness, and I had a lot of trouble getting around before I got my car. However, as long as you have access to a car, the proximity to Hakodate puts Shiriuchi in a bit of a golden zone, where you can access the convenience and entertainment of the city while enjoying the laid back

Around the 'Do

atmosphere of the countryside. When it comes to food, Shiriuchi doesn’t have a Starbucks or Lucky Pierrot, but it more than makes up for this with a selection of friendly, local izakaya and eateries to explore. My favorite is definitely Donkoro, a relaxed and family-run izakaya with two private tatami rooms that are usually available on a first come, first serve basis, plus a large table and a bar. The food is always delicious; highlights of the menu include the karaage, fried squid rings, and yakisoba. It was here that I fell in love with budou sours, but all the sour flavors are excellent with perfectly balanced sweetness and flavor. When it comes time to retire, you can expect the owner to be ready to drive you home. If all of this doesn’t convince you or you feel up to a bit of izakaya-hopping, next door lies the slightly more upscale Wasabi, which

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

harbors a colosseum-esque ring of private tatami rooms. Just down the street is Mashiro, the local sushi place with highquality sushi platters for a very reasonable price. A ways down the main road, you can find Kakigoya, a great lunchtime option that specializes in oysters and chives. Across the road is Poem, a small restaurant with a big menu. The pizzas are a wonderful Donkoro fare

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surprise in a rural eatery, and the parfait rivals those of downtown Tokyo. Quality like that takes time, so don’t expect a quick meal. Also, call ahead if you have a group because it is a one-man operation! Other activities in town include the blue cave tour, where you can enter a sea cave by boat and witness the striking visual of a cave illuminated by blue light as it reflects underwater and streams through the narrow opening. One lazy summer day, my supervisor took me to Kotaniishi, which I found to be something of a hidden gem. This sub-district of Shiriuchi was formerly a separate village with a collection of old houses against a seaside cliff and small waterfalls. Growing up near the ocean, I’ve always loved sea life, so I was excited to find a lively tidepool to explore right off of the main road. Atop the cliff and across the road is yet another viewing platform. The reward for braving the narrow

staircase is a unique view of Aomori with vividly blue water that is dotted by dark, rocky outcroppings in the foreground. One of my favorite parts of living in a rural area is being more immersed in the natural world: from the idyllic, flowerlined country roads to majestic copses of conifers abutting the fields, and the dreamlike state the world enters when blanketed with snow. My time in Shiriuchi has been a much-

needed departure from the urban and suburban world that I grew up in. If you too feel lost amongst the hustle and bustle, or ironically isolated amongst the density of the urban world, I don’t think it's possible to overstate the regenerative power of the countryside. If you need an escape - even just for a day - take a trip to Shiriuchi and it can become a home for you just like it became for me. View of Aomori from Kotaniishi

Top: Sign for the elementary school Bottom: Car blanketed in snow

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Around the 'Do

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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surprise in a rural eatery, and the parfait rivals those of downtown Tokyo. Quality like that takes time, so don’t expect a quick meal. Also, call ahead if you have a group because it is a one-man operation! Other activities in town include the blue cave tour, where you can enter a sea cave by boat and witness the striking visual of a cave illuminated by blue light as it reflects underwater and streams through the narrow opening. One lazy summer day, my supervisor took me to Kotaniishi, which I found to be something of a hidden gem. This sub-district of Shiriuchi was formerly a separate village with a collection of old houses against a seaside cliff and small waterfalls. Growing up near the ocean, I’ve always loved sea life, so I was excited to find a lively tidepool to explore right off of the main road. Atop the cliff and across the road is yet another viewing platform. The reward for braving the narrow

staircase is a unique view of Aomori with vividly blue water that is dotted by dark, rocky outcroppings in the foreground. One of my favorite parts of living in a rural area is being more immersed in the natural world: from the idyllic, flowerlined country roads to majestic copses of conifers abutting the fields, and the dreamlike state the world enters when blanketed with snow. My time in Shiriuchi has been a much-

needed departure from the urban and suburban world that I grew up in. If you too feel lost amongst the hustle and bustle, or ironically isolated amongst the density of the urban world, I don’t think it's possible to overstate the regenerative power of the countryside. If you need an escape - even just for a day - take a trip to Shiriuchi and it can become a home for you just like it became for me. View of Aomori from Kotaniishi

Top: Sign for the elementary school Bottom: Car blanketed in snow

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Around the 'Do

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The Trail to Apoi-Dake

Samani-cho, Hidaka Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce OCTOBER 04, 2022

ALLERY

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Gallery

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The Trail to Apoi-Dake

Samani-cho, Hidaka Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce OCTOBER 04, 2022

ALLERY

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Gallery

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Pinecones

Songbird

Tomamae-cho, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Michael Brunozzi MARCH 2023

Tomamae-cho, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Michael Brunozzi MARCH 2023

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Pinecones

Songbird

Tomamae-cho, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Michael Brunozzi MARCH 2023

Tomamae-cho, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Michael Brunozzi MARCH 2023

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Otaru Music Box Museum

Otaru-shi, Shiribeshi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio WINTER 2022 - SUMMER 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Otaru Music Box Museum

Otaru-shi, Shiribeshi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio WINTER 2022 - SUMMER 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Otaru Canal

Otaru-shi, Shiribeshi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio SUMMER 2022 - WINTER 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Otaru Canal

Otaru-shi, Shiribeshi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio SUMMER 2022 - WINTER 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Senbodai

Rumoi-shi, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio WINTER 2021 - SUMMER 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Senbodai

Rumoi-shi, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio WINTER 2021 - SUMMER 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Sapporo Clock Tower

Urakawa Shrine

Sapporo-shi, Ishikari Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce SEPTEMBER 04, 2022

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Gallery

Urakawa-cho, Hidaka Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce DECEMBER 09, 2022

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Sapporo Clock Tower

Urakawa Shrine

Sapporo-shi, Ishikari Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce SEPTEMBER 04, 2022

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Gallery

Urakawa-cho, Hidaka Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce DECEMBER 09, 2022

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Banei Horse Racing

Obihiro-shi, Tokachi Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce MARCH 04, 2023

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Gallery

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Banei Horse Racing

Obihiro-shi, Tokachi Subprefecture Photographer — Jennifer Pierce MARCH 04, 2023

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Lake Kussharo

Teshikaga-cho, Kushiro Subprefecture Photographer — Abigail Edwards APRIL 05, 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Lake Kussharo

Teshikaga-cho, Kushiro Subprefecture Photographer — Abigail Edwards APRIL 05, 2022

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Gallery

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Misakidai Park

Shosanbetsu-mura, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio AUGUST 12, 2022

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Gallery

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Misakidai Park

Shosanbetsu-mura, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio AUGUST 12, 2022

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Gallery

POLESTAR | APRIL 2023

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Teshio Fields

Teshio-cho, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio AUGUST 12, 2022

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Gallery

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Teshio Fields

Teshio-cho, Rumoi Subprefecture Photographer — Neil Nicerio AUGUST 12, 2022

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Gallery

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