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Vogue (Autumn Style)

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The spirit of travel. Discover more.


The spirit of travel. Discover more.


www.chanel.com


www.chanel.com


SOUS LE SIGNE DU LION NECKLACE AND RING IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS www.chanel.com 173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1 SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1 HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY & WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1 FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005


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ARMANI.COM/ATRIBUTE


Joséphine Collection Aigrette Impériale Ring chaume t .com 174 New Bond Street • Harrods, The Fine Jewellery Room • Selfridges, The Wonder Room London For all enquiries: 0207 495 6303


SPY Page 163 Léa Seydoux wears tulle sheath dress, £2,750, Dolce & Gabbana. Get the look: make-up by Mac. Eyes: Liquid Eye Liner; Mineralize Eye Shadow Duo in Spiced Metal. Lips: Mineralize Rich Lipstick in So Good. Face: Studio Waterweight Foundation. Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel: Tecni Art Supreme Smooth Cream; Tecni Art Waves Fatales. Hair: Sam McKnight. Make-up: Val Garland. Nails: Charlène Coquard. Set design: Jean Michel Bertin. Production: Brachfeld Paris. Digital artwork: D Touch. Fashion editor: Kate Phelan. Photographer: Craig McDean COVER LOOK WHAT TO BUY NOW Page 117 NOVEMBER 2015 Regulars 42 EDITOR’S LETTER 52 VOGUE NOTICES Behind the scenes of the issue 60 VOGUE.CO.UK What’s online this month 181 CHECKLIST The best of autumn’s fashion bounty 285 STOCKISTS BACK PAGE MIND’S EYE From concrete chairs to Japanese ice cream… what’s inspiring Sacai’s Chitose Abe? In Vogue 75 WHAT’S NEW The people, places, ideas and trends to watch now 87 COVER STORY 30 NEW CODES OF COOL Julia Hobbs rewrites fashion’s statute book 95 FIRST PAST THE POST For industry insiders, the Business of Fashion is essential digital reading. Carolyn Asome meets Imran Amed, the man who makes it happen 103 MUMBAI’S THE WORD Priya Kishore is the boutique owner bringing the best of Bombay to London. By Shruti Rya Ganguly 108 A LIFE IN FASHION Dutch model Saskia de Brauw on art, travel and resisting pudding Vogue Shops 117 COVER STORY WHAT TO BUY NOW Outdoor wear so desirable, you’ll be longing for winter View 135 CREATIVE REVIEW On the eve of Frieze London, Hannah Nathanson introduces the gallerists, artists, curators and collectors to know now 147 MY FATHER’S VOICE A new documentary brings Marlon Brando to life, as his daughter reveals 150 REVERT TO TYPE New books for autumn. Chosen by Susie Rushton 155 LATIN LOVER Sarah Harris is seduced by Argentina Spy 161 PACIFIC ARENA Asian-inspired souvenir jackets 163 MONO MANIA Back to black (and white) – the new op-art accessories 164 SOFTLY SOFTLY Slouchy ankle boots to covet 169 RETURN TO FEMININITY Designers are revelling in flounces, pleats and lace 176 BE INSPIRED Page 188’s fashion shoot deserves an encore “Autumn’s free-thinking prints and textures traverse uncharted territory” TUMBLE TOWN, PAGE 202 >36 29 insideVOGUE


© 2015 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 152 –153 SLOANE STREET LONDON SWIX 9BX chloe.com


“Clothes that move in tune with the body are the most liberating of all…” ENSEMBLE PIECES, PAGE 188 SUBSCRIBE TO Turn to page 146 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift 36 inside VOGUE Features 214 COVER STORY THE SPY WHO LOVED ME Léa Seydoux tells Giles Coren why she’s no ordinary Bond girl. Photographed by Craig McDean 226 COVER STORY INTO THE WOODS It’s all change for Liv Tyler, discovers Sarah Harris. Photographed by Venetia Scott 234MURDER, SHE SPOKE Sarah Koenig’s Serial podcast gripped millions of listeners. Tom Shone investigates her next project. Photographs by Joss McKinley 238 COVER STORY THE LEGACY Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel, talks to Alexandra Shulman about cats, couture and keeping up appearances 244 CABIN FEVER How Vogue stylist Clare Richardson transformed a mountain shack into a stunning retreat. By Marisa Meltzer. Photographs by Peter Ash Lee 252 COVER STORY PRESS PLAY Katharine Viner, the first woman editor of the Guardian, sets out her vision for the future of journalism. By Emily Sheffield. Portrait by Jason Bell 256 REFLECTED GLORY Christa D’Souza goes through the looking glass – while Vogue reflects on past issues Fashion 188 ENSEMBLE PIECES The season’s fluid lines will have you dancing for joy. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier 202 TUMBLE TOWN It’s time for a bold move: fall for groundbreaking patterns and textures. Photographs by Harley Weir Beauty 265 SOUND BITES Dental care just got sexy, says Christa D’Souza 273 COVER STORY ULTIMATE BEAUTY HACKS Vogue’s definitive beauty crib sheet 279 UPSCALE NAILS The hazy shades of winter 280 OIL REFINEMENT Striking innovations for hair and skin 282 THE CABINET OF CURIOSITIES Inside London’s most extraordinary pharmacy CABIN FEVER Page 244


81% of women agreed Clinique Smart™ Serum made their skin look younger.* New: all the benefi ts of the serum now for eyes in a gel-cream that helps boost skin’s moisture so it stays hydrated, appears more youthful. Clinique Smart™ Custom Serum and New Eye Treatment Our light bulb moment. If a woman can do at least four things at once, her skin care should too. Improves skin’s appearance to Smooth wrinkles. Even skin tone. Lift. Brighten. clinique.co.uk © Clinique Laboratories, LLC *156-woman consumer test.


CRAIG McDEAN; DANJAQ/EON/UA; KOBAL COLLECTION; REX FEATURES Editor’s letter f rom the age of 12, I spent my school holidays in a beautiful house deep in the Herefordshire countryside where the woodenpanelled sitting room was lined entirely in books. Years back, the Edwardian writer MR James had written several of his famous ghost stories in the house, and on the bookshelves there were first editions of these volumes. But alongside them – and much more intriguing to me – was the whole collection of Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels in paperback. I read them all, one after the other; Casino Royale, From Russia with Love, Dr No, Goldfinger, Thunderball – the list goes on – and I adored the chauvinistic, suave Bond, the inventive and evil villains, and the descriptions of the unutterably glamorous and usually doomed girls who came Bond’s way. I don’t know what it says about me that it never entered my head that Bond’s behaviour was sexist (well, it was the early Seventies and we looked at the world differently then) or that most of Fleming’s fictional women could be regarded as victims in some form or other. It was all utterly captivating to me then and still, all these years later, Bond continues to enthral. For this issue we sent Giles Coren to interview our cover star Léa Seydoux (page 214), who plays Bond’s latest temptress in the upcoming film Spectre, no doubt set to be yet another brilliant box-office success. Seydoux is an actress who gave one of the most compelling performances I have ever seen in Blue Is the Warmest Colour, and I’m looking forward to seeing her in such an opposing role as a Bond girl. Surprisingly to me, Giles approached the interview and concept of the traditional Bond girl with a much more feminist stance than I had ever expected of this most blokeish of writers. Yet more evidence that, indeed, the times are a-changin’. > Bond beauties – above, Ursula Andress in Dr No (1962). Left, Claudine Auger in Thunderball (1965) Premium BOND 42 Léa Seydoux channels espionage chic for Craig McDean, page 214. Far left: the editor’s well-thumbed Ian Fleming paperbacks


JASON BELL; HARLEY WEIR; JAI ODELL 44 Great stories are a theme in this issue, as we also feature two women who are changing the face of how narrative is presented today. Sarah Koenig (page 234) is the host of the podcast Serial, which has evoked the same passionate following from tens of millions across the world as any of television’s recent wildly popular box sets. To capture an audience through an aural experience in our incredibly visual culture is a fascinating achievement – one which I am sure she will duplicate in her nextseason story, about to be unveiled. Another woman in charge of contemporary narrative is Katharine Viner, who has become editor-in-chief at the Guardian, having been a staffer for many years. She once compared the compilation of digital news – for which she is a passionate cheerleader – to the old traditions of storytelling in the way that it enables a large number of people to add their own voices and perspectives to stories, giving them a different shape to conventional print. Emily Sheffield interviews Viner (page 252) as she takes control of the Guardian, and finds a woman filled with the energy and excitement of someone who has achieved a long-held ambition. Viner’s enthusiasm for free news and comment may be tested in the current landscape, where newspaper print circulations are declining and digital revenues are still failing to fill the financial gap left by this erosion. Interestingly, any research we do among you, the Vogue readers, consistently confirms that while you enjoy our website and our digital apps, neither replace the print magazine, which you enjoy for its physical presence and often keep for months, if not years. Most of us have a complicated relationship with the mirror. At one level it is a basic instinct to want to see how we look – not in a vain way but almost as a confirmation that we exist. It’s hard to imagine a world where we couldn’t see our reflection – what would that mean for the way we present ourselves? However, who hasn’t been pulled up short by catching sight of themselves looking a great deal worse than they imagined they did, or occasionally indulged in a moment of self-congratulation when the whole “look” seems to be working? We sent Christa D’Souza off into the cuttingedge world of mirrors – if you can imagine what that might be – and her discoveries (“Reflected Glory”, page 256) were a great excuse to plunder Vogue’s memory lane of reflections. Finally, as summer has fully retreated into the past, it’s time to embrace the pleasure of warm and cosy clothes to bundle into for autumn walks and wintry breaks. Our “What To Buy Now” story (page 117), styled by senior fashion assistant Lucy Bower, features some great outdoors pieces that won’t break the budget and makes the prospect of cold weather a little more appealing. “What To Buy Now”, page 117, welcomes autumn and the return of cosy layers The Guardian’s editor-in-chief, Katharine Viner, profiled on page 252 Vogue looks into the mirror, page 256 EDITOR’S letter


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