YUGEN DANESSA MYRICKS VOL 1. JAN. 2023 WWW.SKINCAREANARCHYPODCAST.COM MARIO DEDIVANOVIC Mario dives into the design process of the Master Metallics pallette BEST SKINCARE OF 2022 Skincare Anarchy’s top-picks of 2021 From the creators behind the industry acclaimed and top 25 podcast in beauty, Skincare Anarchy WWW.TIKTOK.COM/@SKINCAREANARCHY

CONT Jami Morse Heidegger Dr. Gregory Bays Brown Susan Akkad Mario Dedivanovic Lori Taylor Davis Priscila Martinez 2 | YŪGEN

TENT Carmen Tal Lisa Smith Sir John Angelina Caglia Dr. Rossi Shira Tabib

YŪGEN Yūgen is an important concept in traditional Japanese aesthetics. The exact translation of the word depends on the context. In the Chinese philosophical texts the term was taken from, yūgen meant “dim”, “deep” or “mysterious”. In the criticism of Japanese waka poetry, it was used to describe the subtle profundity of things that are only vaguely suggested by the poems. Yūgen is said to mean “a profound, mysterious sense of the beauty of the universe... and the sad beauty of human suffering”. Yūgen suggests that beyond what can be said but is not an allusion to another world. It is about this world, this experience. 4 | YŪGEN

SKINCARE ANARCHY’S YŪGEN “When I wake up early enough to see the sunrise, if I keep still and watch for a few minutes I can actually perceive the movement. At these times I become vibrantly aware that I am here, standing at this particular spot on the surface of this particular world; and this world is turning, turning, turning this part of its face toward the star we call the sun, 93 million miles away. And half of this world is at this moment experiencing this very same sun along with me, while the other half is in darkness. These are my moments of yūgen.”

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A Ayssa Di Pietro Founder of Miami Beach Bum Ekta sits down with Ayssa Di Pietro, Founder of Miami Beach Bum, to discuss her journey with the brand and the science behind its voluptuous results! Ayssa’s journey began after she devel - oped folliculitis from wearing a bathing suit and being in the ocean for lengthy periods. Due to this issue, her self-care routine soon became her worse nightmare. Though she tried several treatments, she could never find one that was not only effective but clean and environmentally friendly. So, she did her homework and used her background in green chemistry to birth the revo - lutionary line known today as Miami Beach Bum! “Coming from a background in Marine Science and Engineering, I did not think starting a body care line is where my career would take me. But it all really started because I had these horrible folliculitis rashes, I would get on my bum for being in wet swimsuits for extended periods of time because for me self-care is all about getting back to nature and doing activities that you love. So, every day I am out paddle boarding, kite boarding, diving, or just swimming in the ocean and getting these folliculitis rashes from staying in a wet swimsuit the bacteria get trapped and they were giving me this bad bum breakout. As embarrassing or not embarrassing as it is I had horrible acne. This is really what broke me into the skincare industry and formulating my own skincare products.” (Di Pietro). Ayssa cares about body care form her person - al experience and puts the importance of body care at the forefront of the beauty industry. She understands that consumers care for the facial

Body Cream which was really formulating for the skin’s natural biology to restore skin health and that’s how I kind of switched from my coastal engineering career which was a little boring and dry to much more exciting launching my own brand then using that chemistry background to making emulsions.” (Di Pietro). Miami Beach Bum is revolutionizing how consumers and the beauty industry view the importance of body care. Even more so, with Ayssa’s brilliant study of the biological functions and combining them with her excellence in green chemistry, her formulations promote skin health longevity. The brand is perfect for those looking for a greener and cleaner way to help their skin, and the results are BOOM-BOOM- Tastic! 8 | YŪGEN

‘Skin Sponging’ May Replace Micro-Needling-Micro-Spicules Are the Next Best Thing Recently. we came upon some pretty interesting studies around the science of micro needling and how the technology is adapting and changing rapidly. Interestingly enough, it led us down a rabbit hole of literature reviews and the ingredient called “microspicules” came up. Before we confuse you, let’s clarify that we are not talking loofa for face here. Instead it is all about the science of microscopic physical ingredients we are just now discovering for their skin benefits : micro spicules! For those who don’t know, a mocrospicule is a naturally occurring form of a sponge that is so small that the shape of most of them resemble that of needles attached to a central ball. There is a lot of symmetry as well, for those of you wondering about the apricot scrub comparison. With the rise of delivery system related questions in skincare, a very interesting topic often comes up: practical application. Microbspicules provide a novel approach to towards the delivery of buzz worthy skin care stars such as growth factors and peptides. Similarly to the Micro needle patches we have all heard of, these spicules allow for the microscopic creation of channels that allow for more efficacious delivery of the aforementioned growth factors and can be easily visualized using modern day density imaging techniques for skin. In a notable study done in 2017, it was found that “ Anti-wrinkle improvement with MS-EGF was more significant and superior to the EGF alone treatment. In the study, the skin penetration ability for EGF was also larger with MS-EGF. This implied the increased anti-wrinkle efficacy of MSEGF was due to superior skin penetration ability from the micro-spicules” (JeongMin et Al. 2017). The study was able to show a significant difference in areas such as the orbicularis occuli distribution when it came to the improvement of wrinkles and “crow’s feet.” This led us to dig further and see if this technology is being applied today. Unfortunately, although many estheticians can access the spicules, very little skincare products currently exist that are utilizing the benefits of using microspicules vs routine micro needling! Lucky for our readers, we found one brand that seems to be doing Justice to our curiosities ;) Written by: Ekta Yadav, MD MBA MS 10 | YŪGEN

“American Crew is more than just another product supplier. It’s a landmark in the history of a men’s grooming. It’s the leading salon brand created specifically for men and the stylists they trust.” David Raccuglia 12 | YŪGEN

David Raccuglia During our Labor Day Weekend special, Ekta sits down with David Raccuglia, Founder of American Crew Haircare, to discuss his journey from a ca-reer in barbering to now being a wellknown in-novator of men’s haircare. As David grew up in his small Mid-Western town of La - Salle, Illinois, be-coming a barber was a dream that was always on his mind. But he would soon learn that the tech-niques of barbering and haircare would intertwine for him in ways he could never have imagined! “You know I just I decided it might be a cool thing to try barbering. So, I ended up going to barber school in the late 70s which was not a very good time to go to barber school. It was when that was a very classic grooming at its fin - est you know. You think of the late 70s it was a lot of like long hair and men were being a lot more experimen-tal. It was kind of an androg - enous time you know Bowie and different peo - ple. And I was really you know quite into the classic barbering.” (Raccuglia). Although he always had an interest in classical hairstyles such as the slick back looks seen as a child by the men and boys in his Italian family. David opened himself up to the world of salon care and com-bined those techniques with Barbery. But through-out his training in London and teaching worldwide, he saw few options for men in the haircare space. “I decided one day that I just you know after working predominantly in the female category I decided I wanted to do a book on men’s hair because I loved the techniques and classics of cutting so much! So, I ended up doing a book on men’s grooming and I became kind of known for hav - ing a techni-cal excellence in cutting men’s hair. And then from doing that book I realized how little options there were in the men’s grooming category.” (Raccuglia). From that moment on, David worked tirelessly to formulate a line to promote men’s haircare and rev-olutionize the idea that all men’s hair is the same. He sees that the category of men’s hairstyles is also changing the effort of care and management, which brings us to the brilliant brand American Crew! “Most of the information that you can gain on the right products all began with the hair cut you’re wearing and how much time you’re will - ing to com-mit to it. You know like, for instance, most men, I think I’ve read the percentages this high in the 90 percent category have hair three inches or short-er. And if you’re wearing, you know if you look at the male groomer in that cat - egory that’s gonna cut down the amount of time they spend on their hair. So, you know short hair predominates. Howev-er, that’s changed dras - tically. New generations are wearing their hair much longer and are much more interested in very idiosyncratic textures.” (Raccuglia).

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Tisha Thompson Tisha Thompson, the Founder of LYS Beauty. Thompson started her career as a makeup artist and she was always experimenting with makeup and what she liked and what she didn’t. She grew up with Military Parents who were a bit strict when it came to Tisha wanting to become a makeup artist, She went to college and did makeup on the side. She has more than fifteen years of experience in the makeup industry with a plethora of experience in clean beauty product development, brand management, marketing, finance and operations. Tisha’s goal for her company was to create a brand that’s all about creativity and inclusivity. Her products are uniquely catered to various skin types, textures and tones while addressing common skincare concerns such as hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sensitive skin. “LYS™ Beauty is on an unapologetic mission to empower, inspire and awaken your most confident self through strict formulation standards that help reshape the way consumers approach clean beauty. Committed to a skin-first, multicultural approach to formulating, LYS™ unlocks skin’s maximum potential with ingredients that are not only suitable, but deeply enriching, for all complexions.” (lysbeauty.com). 16 | YŪGEN

CAROLYN YACHANIN FOUNDER & CEO COPINA CO 18 | YŪGEN

MAXWELL STOCK CEO SIGNUM BIOSCIENCES

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MARIO DEDIVANOVIC From Humble Beginnings to Makeup Artisty Stardom Mario Dedivanovic is one of the most influential makeup artists and brand founders of this gen - eration. His chic and snatched makeup looks on celebrities is what helped him make a name for himself, these looks are seen on stars like Jennifer Lopez to Priyanka Chopra to his most frequent muse, Kim Kardashian West. Ma - rio’s technique’s and precisely perfect looks have shot him to stardom within the beauty community. His makeup brand “Makeup by Ma - rio” has had phenome - nal success as it is a true reflection of his style of makeup artistry and the ready to use products are a hit amongst beau - ty consumers. Mario got his start at seventeen years old, originally from Bronx, New York, he visited a Sephora store in Manhattan, New York, with his mother and fell in love immediately. He comes from immigrant parents and expressed to us in his interview that he in - stinctively knew that makeup was towards the ‘bottom of the list’, regarding paths he could’ve cho - sen to spend his life on. None - theless, he pursued makeup and applied to work at Sephora, due to his inexperience with makeup, they hired him as a Fragrance Consultant. He says about those days, “From the very first day of working there I was naturally more attracted to makeup artist - ry.” (Dedivanovic). He fell in love with the art surrounding makeup and the transformative process it required, he was constantly playing around with makeup and making rec - ommendations to customers while working there, learning as much about it as he could. “I knew on the first day of work - ing there (Sephora) that this was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.” (Dedivanovic). Pursuing makeup paid off for Ma - rio, he is now a brand owner of his very own makeup brand (Makeup by Mario) and continues to blow audiences away with his artistry on well known celebrities. Anoth - er endeavor of his that has blown consumers out of the water, is his masterclass. “In 2009, Mario launched The Masterclass which be - came a global phenom - enon. Through this un - precedented education platform has welcomed over 25,000 students to sold-out events in cities across North and South America, Europe, Asia, Australia, and the Mid - dle East. Serving as a teacher, role model, and inspiration to makeup artists and beauty lovers around the world, Mario generously shares the signature techniques he’s mastered over his career working with celebrities, magazines, on the red carpet, and at photoshoots.” (makeupbyma - rio.com). His masterclasses have become a staple to his brand as a person and have taught so many willing listeners about his tips and tricks as well as his personal techniques. “How do I now “I wanted to do universal pallets that would work on everyone, I started doing research about shades, skin colors, and skin tones - so I came up with the Master Metallics Pallete which is based on all human color skin tones, from dark to light.” - Mario Dedivanovic

take this, and really break it down and simplify it so that the person at home, who’s using the makeup can be faster and smarter about their application, and be able to recreate my signature techniques in less time and make their look more effortless.” (Dedivanovic). His goal is to teach the everyday person that it’s possible for them to achieve these looks using his steps, by themselves. His artistry style is based on architecture, he says. He finds his approach to be very organic in taking the symmetry of the face and enhancing all the features that will make the person look snatched yet natural. On our podcast he spoke about his approach and said, “I have a very architectural approach, what gets me super inspired is looking at the symmetry of the face and analyzing the face. How can I perfect this, how can I lift this, how can I lower this, how can I cinch this. That’s the aspect of makeup artistry that I really love…It’s really about balance, symmetry and the architecture of the face. I attract those types of clients that like that kind of look.” (Dedivanovic). His makeup skill has influenced the beauty space so much because of his clientele and the looks he gives them, he’s a perfectionist in the best way possible. His most famous and well known muse is Kim Kardashian West. He talks about the importance of highlighting the face’s natural beauty and the best features on someone when doing their makeup. He approaches makeup in an architectural way, meaning he likes to look at someone’s features and use the makeup to make them appear flawless and glamorous without it being too outlandish. “Most celebrities have a signature that they look really good in, so I tend to carry that out. I work to make them look as beautiful as possible. I gauge that by, towards the end of that process, they look in the mirror and they feel ready to go out there.” (Dedivanovic). His technique and style and creativity all speak volumes through his makeup brand and the results of the makeup he’s done on some of the most influential women in the world. If you haven’t already, check out his makeup brand at beauty stores near you or at Makeupbymario.com! We loved having Mario on our show, it was an absolute honor to host someone as talented as him and we look forward to seeing what he does in the future. 22 | YŪGEN

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KEYA JAMES FOUNDER OF TAILORED BEAUTY

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Anastasia Bezrukova, Founder of Minori Minimal Make - up Line, to discuss her journey with the brand with its simple but beautiful line of products. The mission of Minori is to revolutionize the consumer world by sim - plifying the overflow of products that go to waste. An - astasia understands that consumers may have anxiety working with brands because of new products consis - tently presented to them. So, she went to rectify that issue and innovate the relationship between brands and consumers; thus, Minori was born! “It was such a long path which I think is common for most entrepreneurs. I started off my career in a field as far away from the beauty industry as you could imag - ine. I studied finance and started off by being a com - modity trader. So, I bought corn, soybeans, and wheat from industrial farmers. So, completely in a different scope of work. But I made my way into learning how to buy from buying commodities, to becoming a buyer in the food industry, and then making my way into being a buyer in the retail space. So, I started off in Toron - to, Canada at ecommerce company starting off with personal care, sexual wellness, and then move my way into beauty. Finally, I became a buyer at Sears (before they collapsed) and worked with giant companies and saw what big beauty looked like. (Bezrukova). Being a commodity trader gave Anastasia the idea of the entrepreneurship side and the consumer end of the business world. She would soon go into beauty, matching consumers to products based on their needs at Espy. But she noticed that much of the products pro - duced were not thoroughly used and caused tremen - dous waste. More than that, she saw that consumers would go for simpler products, which open her eyes to what they want in their beauty reoutine. “To me the big AHA from the product side, was see - ing that beauty products that women tend to love the most were always the most basic, simple, elegant one. It is like when you look at lipstick range and you have twelve different shades it is always going to be that gorgeous mauve that is as close to your natural lip color as possible. Because on an everyday basis when you wake up in the morning and you are getting ready you are going to lean for something that you feel com - fortable in….That was like though my buying days and my days at Espy I saw that elegant verse of colors that were much more natural looking that made our skin look healthy, glowing, and fresh and that did not make us look over done that was the type of makeup most of us want to wear daily.” (Bezrukova). This discovery made Anastasia not only ensure con - sumers received the products they wanted but also promote the idea of minimalism to cater to the every - day person. Furthermore, Minori ensures the quality of products and stops their over-production. As a result, the brand is at the center of the leaner and greener movement of the beauty industry, tackling waste and producing results! “I think our industry is so used to constantly innovating and pushing growing through units and creating things that will make you stop scrolling on Facebook when you see an ad with a flashy color, and you might buy it, but you won’t nec - essarily use it on an everyday basis and to me this was such a disappointing fact about our space and I wanted to bring a brand to the world that did things differently.” (Bezrukova).

SAHAR SANJAR DEJABAN & SAHAR VAZIN NEZHAD CO-FOUNDERS OF SUNDREE 28 | YŪGEN

SABRINA SADEGHIAN & JADE BEGUELIN CO-FOUNDERS OF 4AM SKIN

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Jami Morse Heidegger Co-Founder of Retrouvé Jami Morse Heiddeger was born in New York City where her mother Georganne, an elegant model, introduced her to film, fine art and theater. After serving in the Army Air Corps in WWII, her father, Aaron, began Morse Labora - tories, a drug research and manufacturing facil - ity in Hoboken, New Jersey, that was later tak - en over by eminent domain. Then Aaron joined forces at Kiehl’s Pharmacy with his father, Irving, a pharmacist. Aaron began to develop a unisex line of skincare products that became one of the most iconic brands of all time. Jami studied at Harvard University and later moved to Austria as a fitness trainer for the Austrian Ski Team, which is where she met her future business partner and husband Klaus Heidegger, a member of the Austrian Nation - al Ski Team. In 1985, Jami and Klaus returned to New York City to help support the expan - sion and development of Kiehl’s, and by 1988, they were responsible for its entire operations. In the coming years, the couple brought Kie - hl’s, by then renamed to Kiehl’s Since 1851, to such a level of success that they realized further growth would be best accomplished through stewardship by an even bigger brand. In 2000, they made the difficult decision to pass the torch to L’Oreal. Having sold Kiehl’s, Jami turned her attention more fully to family while continuing to follow her passion for skincare and wellness. Develop - ing skincare was not only a career choice but a lifestyle she thrived in and loved. After years of continued research, development and ingredi - ent sourcing and in tandem with her chemist from Kiehl’s, Jami created specialized highly concentrated and potent products for her own personal use that she could not find in the marketplace. In 2014, Jami and Klaus launched Retrouvé, an exclusive collection of prestigious gender-free skincare products that Jami had initially developed for their own personal use only. Retrouvé represents an anthology of over 75 years of collective experience, research, and collaboration resulting in a super-luxurious be - spoke skincare line distilled from the family’s deep knowledge and revolutionary aesthetic vision of cosmetics. Since the brand’s debut, it quickly garnered attention from Hollywood’s A-listers, celebrity makeup artists, and taste - makers. During this time, they also began to cultivate the land in Malibu that would later become Palms of Malibu Ranch, their permaculture farm that also supplies produce for Retrouvé. In addition to working together, Jami and Klaus focus much of their time and energy on their three grown children while continuing their long-standing support of many charitable organizations and institutions. The Heideggers also serve or have served on the Board of Trust - ees, Waterkeeper Alliance; Board of Trustees, USC Gerontology Center; the Executive Board, founding member, Sierra Canyon High School Foundation; Cardiovascular Research Founda - tion of Southern California, Board Member; Campbell Hall School, Board Member; and MBT Board of Directors. www.retrouve.com

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Give your body the face treatment with our antioxidant-rich Baume Ultime Body Oil, our celebrated formulation created to moisturize deeply and to address the visible signs of aging. Like a vitamin bath for the skin, our sumptuously textured oil envelops the body in vitamin E, vitamin C, ceramides, and sustainably grown avocado for intensively hydrated skin that looks healthy, glowing, more even-toned and is silky and supple to the touch. Baume Ultime Body Oil effectively binds moisture to the skin to help support a healthy skin barrier and delivers dramatic softness and smoothness immediately upon application. BAUME ULTIME BODY OIL

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Elle is no stranger to the limelight, having worked as a full-time reporter for WHAS, the ABC affiliate in Louisville, Kentucky, a position which has adequately prepared her for the prestigious platform of Miss USA. Understanding her role as a journalist to be such an essential part of our society, she took on the challenge each day as an opportunity to connect with her community and share new perspectives. Being raised surrounded by all forms of arts, with her father a photographer and her mother a classically trained pianist, Elle sees herself as a true creative person, currently zoning in on her passion for photography, videography and modeling! Inspired by her late grandmother, Elle has taken up the mantle to advocate for cervical cancer awareness and prevention in her current reign. MY TIME AS MISS USA Competing for Miss Kentucky USA, then winning and continuing directly onto Miss USA while maintaining my full time job as a reporter was one of the most challenging and demanding feats that I’ve taken on in my life thus far and it has truly prepared me for the journey that is my Miss USA reign! Encountering so many amazing people along the way, from our valuable sponsors to invaluable charitable alliances, to my fellow contestants has truly been an expansive experience for me, which I am continuing to cherish along the way. I understand the power that this title holds and I plan to take up every opportunity that comes my way. From moving to Los Angeles and starting my new life to continuing my career in the entertainment epicenter of the world, I can’t wait to see all that unfurls on this magical journey. Self identifying as a musical theater junkie, Elle has been on stage from the ages 8 to 18, making her no stranger to the spotlight. Her rich childhood meanderings in playing the viola, the piano and mastering the instrument of voice, has steeped Elle in her power seat as the all-round creative and ultimate performer. Growing up in a household surrounded by creativity has definitely shaped Elle’s openness and passion for life. It also happened that her mom was her teacher for four years of her high school tenure – an experience which she wouldn’t trade for the world! Also during her high school stint, Elle was first introduced to the world of pageants as she saw another girl from her school win the Miss Teen USA title! This opened her eyes to the power of confidence and not letting anything hold you back, while also shedding light on the vast opportunities that the world of pageantry could open up for her. It wasn’t until 2020 though that she let the competition bug bite her hard enough to push her to pursue the title of Miss Kentucky USA, which she won on her first try, then catapulting her right onto the main stage of Miss USA. Elle cites the expertise of her coaches as well as her own commitment to excellence as the secret to her success! Understanding her position as a journalist in America today as an honor, and an essential part of society, Elle took great pride in making her daily contributions to Kentucky in this way. Now she takes this passion onto the larger platform of Miss USA with the same energy and vigor that she channeled into her daily reporting. In this vein, she is keen on honoring her late grandmother and matriarch of her family, by spreading awareness on cervical cancer prevention and treatment as she wants all women across America to have access to more equitable healthcare, regardless of their status in society. E L L E S M I T H M I S S U S A 2021 36 | YŪGEN

- The Ordinary Hyaloronic Acid - Clinique Moisture Surge - Sisley Hydra Global Serum - Shea Moisture African Black Soap - Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Shea Butter Soap Shop Elle Smith’s Top Skincare Picks:

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7 Forms of Vitamin C in Cosmetics and Their Benefits for Skin Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a chem - ical compound and one of the bestknown antioxidants in skin care, used worldwide in various forms: creams, serums, toners, etc. Vitamin C mainly performs the biologi - cal functions of a restorer and accelera - tor of some metabolic processes in the skin. Vitamin C fights photoaging issues from UV damage to the skin, takes part in col - lagen activation synthesis, and has anti-in - flammatory properties. Vitamin C also prevents melanin synthesis by blocking the tyrosinase enzyme. Tyrosinase, by the way, is a substance that acts as the primary regu - lator of melanin pigment synthesis. In addi - tion, vitamin C protects vitamin A from ox - idation and enhances its antioxidant effect. If you have ever used vitamin C cosmetics and experienced an adverse reaction or no result at all, do not think this ingredient is not suitable for you; potentially, you may have used the wrong form for your skin. It’s worth knowing that not all cosmetics with vitamin C are good for our skin. Its proper - ties depend on its form, which the manufac - turers put into their product. The most effective forms of vitamin C in cosmetics: • Ascorbic Acid (AA) / L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA) —the most common, active and natural ascorbic acid. All vitamin C de - rivatives are converted to ascorbic acid in our skin. Cosmetics with AA require a low pH (< 3.5) to maintain stability, so its use on sensitive skin with signs of structural damage is not desirable. The product’s effectiveness with AA increas - es with concentration; the maximum for use is 20%. Additionally, the effect of AA is increased when combined with ferulic acid and vitamin E. Due to its instability, it is also essential how the product is stored —opaque packaging is the best way to preserve the formula. So, if you are atopic, suffer from psori - asis, rosacea, or eczema, or have sen - sitive and reactive skin, avoid ascorbic acid in cosmetics. • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is the most stable form of ascorbic ester. It does not require a low pH, so this form is more suitable for sensi - tive skin and skin with signs of a viola - tion of the structure and function of the epidermal barrier. Look for this partic - ular ingredient in vitamin C cosmetics if you don’t want to avoid this fantastic antioxidant. This form easily penetrates the cells and has enhanced anti-aging and brightening properties. The only negative of this ingredient is that some people claim that products containing it are poorly absorbed. • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is another stable form of vitamin C that is effective in treating acne and even scarring. Unfortunately, it is not entirely possible if you hope to solve the prob - lem exclusively with this form. Still, it can be combined with other anti-acne and scarring products to achieve the desired results. • Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is a complex compound of ascorbic and palmitic acids. The main property —it protects the skin from damage by ultraviolet ra - diation. It is a potent antioxidant that prevents photoaging. It’s excellent if ascorbyl palmitate is part of sunscreen. Another bonus is that when combined with SAP, it helps control sebum pro - duction, which makes it great for oily and acne-prone skin. • Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG) is a com - pound in which ascorbic acid is stabi - lized by glucose. It has a significantly enhanced brightening property, best revealed in combination with niacina - mide. • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is the best vitamin C derivative available today and is a stable vitamin C deriva - tive. This derivative has a fatty compo - nent, so products containing it might have a creamy texture that provides moisturization and leave our skin hy - drated. It would be a great option for dry and even mature skin. Also, THD has three other abilities of ascorbic acid: it provides antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, increases collagen synthesis, and has a skin-light - ening effect by reducing melanogene - sis. • Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid (ELAA) / 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is the only form of vitamin C that is not pure ascorbic acid that does not require conversion into the skin into a form that works. And it is also the newest derivative of ascorbic acid. The skin immediately recognizes it as ascorbic acid, so it works similarly. The ethylated component also makes it very stable. ELAA has very enhanced brightening properties, which are suitable for treat - ing various types of hyperpigmentation (melasma, chloasma, post-acne, etc.). In conclusion, vitamin C is extremely popular among the substances added to cosmetic products due to its bene - ficial properties. And each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. So thankfully, due to the existence of various forms of vitamin C, each of the users will find the most suitable one for themselves. Written by: Jana Natalchuk Concept by: Ekta Yadav

Lisa Smith, Founder of The PR Net and Industry Leader. Lisa has a vast background in several entities, including entrepreneurship, communications, marketing, publishing, online retail, and new media. Lisa wanted to not only engage in the world of Public Relations but to promote the tremendous strides that brands and companies have made in the industry. “I would say in terms of highlights in my career; we started an initiative called the PRNet 100. It recognized 100 agencies that are doing influential, innovative work. We’ve hosted a gala event and are organizing the 2022 edition. We wanted to really recognize and create an event that is a bit like a reunion. It’s really about celebrating what you do and feeling good about the work you do in the industry and are proud of.” (Smith). Lisa not only wants to highlight companies for their work but promote positive workspaces as well that encourage everyone to not only work hard but to love what they do. But she knows that proper and fair leadership is the only way to achieve that cohesive work environment. “I think it’s on the leadership of the company to set the tone for how we work. Whether it’s summer Fridays, working in-house a few days, or being remote. It’s just for people to design the best and healthiest life for their teams to operate. I don’t think you have to compromise productivity. It’s really about the output, happiness, and healthiness of the team.” (Smith). The goal of PR Net is to not only change the relationship between a company’s leadership and subordinates but to change the negative stigmas of Public Relations and its role in the survival of a business. But she wanted to express that the culture of PR is to invest in employees who bring the brand together and innovate it for the future. “I think PR is about creating a nurturing and positive environment for their teams. I know that’s a big focus now for agency leaders, investing in their teams and training them well, and making sure they’re happy and growing. So, invest in your people and invest in the company culture.” (Smith). LISA SMITH FOUNDER OF THE PRNET 40 | YŪGEN

DAVID DELPORT GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR REN CLEAN SKINCARE 42 | YŪGEN

LAURA MEYER FOUNDER OF ENVISION HORIZONS

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TIMELESS “BEAUTY BACKED BY WISDOM” 46 | YŪGEN

SHIRA TABIB FOUNDER OF LULAAV

THE FACE SERUM LULAAV was born in the valleys of the Fertile Crescent, a region known for its mineral-rich soil, abundant harvests, and penetrating, nutrient-dense botanics. And its women, born from this land, lumi - nous skin, legendary for their strength and beauty. Here, women celebrated their heritage, passing on timeless beauty secrets to their daughters. Skin care recipes blending the most exquisite and potent botanicals, and time-honored beauty rituals to regenerate and glorify complexions, giving skin its optimal vitality. These very beauty secrets were passed on to LULAAV founder Shira Tabib by her Persian grandmother. Raised in New York, Shira spent summers with her grandmother in a small farming village in Israel. It was in her family’s gardens, where Shira was introduced to the skin cura - tive properties of cold pressed botanicals that her ancestors had revered for generations – date fruit extract as the cherished elix - ir for promoting radiant skin; plum and apricot oils to rejuvenate skin’s vitality; papaya and watermelon seeds for their potent re - storative qualities. And the roses, a foundational hero ingredient… there were always roses with their omnipresent aroma. After years of searching fruitlessly to find an organic beauty regimen that cap - tured the rituals and efficacy of her grandmother’s timeless formu - las, Shira began methodically crafting her own skin care products. The reputation of her products’ uncompromised quality, purity and nutritional potency spread quickly. In creating LULAAV, Shira sought to honor the timeless beauty wisdom of her heritage, while using only the very finest botanicals, inspired by, and sourced from the Fertile Crescent. Discover the Timeless Beauty Wisdom of LULAAV. 48 | YŪGEN

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“I have always been beauty obsessed, and I want to create beauty solutions that address my customers from head to toe, inside and out. It is all about helping my community feel like the very best versions of themselves. Sending my love to all of the Skincare Anarchy listeners.” -Victoria Beckham VICTORIA BECKHAM BEAUTY 50 | YŪGEN