SustaIngredients “Sustainability made easy”
Formulations Catalogue
Project carried out in collaboration with Unired S.r.l., a spin-off of the Universita’ degli Studi di Padova.
SUSTAINGREDIENTS
SUSTAINGREDIENTS Sustainable Formulations Edition INTRODUCTION The process of collecting all information about sustainability of each ingredients from our Suppliers has started. The SustaIngredients catalogue is ongoing project and it will be implemented and updated in the next editions. Our Suppliers are all collaborating with us in this project to bring to our customers all the information requested. Some of them has already started with a Corporate CSR and are ready to provide all the ESG results and data measurement. For some other the process has started but in progress. In collaboration with Unired S.r.l., we developed 3 sustainable formulations following sustainability criteria for developing eco-design products.
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CONTENTS: SUSTAINGREDIENTS SUSTAINABILITY AND THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY ECO DESIGN AND LCA PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET
FORMULATIONS SUSTAINGREDIENTS FORMULATIONS Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009 Biphasic SustainSerum
SL2-0-003
Rinse-Off SustainMask
EM1-2-133
SUSTAINGREDIENTS
SUSTAINABILITY AND THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY In the age of conscious consumerism and demand for transparency, consumers want to know what actionable steps the beauty industry is taking to reduce its environmental impact and to help fight climate change. From the sourcing of ingredients, to how products are manufactured, what they’re packaged in, how they’re shipped, and all the way to how they’re disposed of, the beauty industry is a key focus for climate- and carbonconscious consumers. Being dubbed “environmentally-friendly” often depends on a brand’s clean ingredients, waterless formulations, sustainable packaging, or zero-waste procedures.
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
ECO DESIGN AND LCA ECODESIGN* Product design according to environmental criteria to find the best compromise between cost, process, regulatory aspects and consumer expectations * ISO/TR 14062:2002 Environmental management — Integrating environmental aspects into product design and development
SUSTAINABLE DESIGN – Cosmetic Product OUTPUT
INPUT SOURCING
PRODUCTS RAW MATERIALS WASTE WATER
MANUFACTURING PROCESS EMISSIONS
ENERGY
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
IMPACT OF THE INGREDIENTS IN A COSMETIC PRODUCT LCA o
To make a sustainable product it is crucial to consider the environmental performance of the product throughout its life cycle.
o
The Life Cycle Assessment allows the identification of the environmental hotspots along the life cycle of a product which could be in terms of raw material consumption, packaging, use phase, and end-of-life management.
o
Selection of raw materials is a key step in the LCA: a balance between sustainability and technological performance must be achieved.
DESIGN
SOURCING
MANUFACTURING
Ideation of the product considering the sustainability profile of ingredients and packaging. For ingredients main features are biodegradability, NOI, Ecocert/Cosmos, carbon footprint, Ecolabel criteria, manufacturing process.
The design of the product content must evaluate the sourcing of the raw materials: cultivation, extraction, synthesis process and country of origin.
Ingredients that can be processed with cold manufacturing have a lower impact on energy and water consumption, decreasing carbon emissions, waste and production costs.
POST CONSUMER PHASE
CONSUMER USE
DISTRIBUTION
The impact of post consumer phase is related mainly to packaging. Impact of ingredients concerns biodegradability and aquatic toxicity for rinse-off products.
Impact of ingredients in product use is related to the type of formulation. For rinseoff, it is possible to minimize water waste during use, for leave-on the impact is not relevant.
Environmental impact of distribution of the finished product from production to shops. Ingredients that permits to produce concentrated or powder products, since the lower unit weight, allows to optimize transport, reducing the impact on CO2 emissions.
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
LCA OF A PRODUCT: LEAVE-ON VS RINSE-OFF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT ANALYSIS OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS:
o LEAVE-ON products The SOURCING of raw materials has the greatest impact on environmental impact → evaluation of CO2 consumption, extraction, synthesis of raw materials. o RINSE-OFF products The USE and END-OF-LIFE have the greatest impact → evaluation of biodegradability, ecotoxicity.
From https://publications.jrc.ec.europa.eu/repository/handle/JRC126061 Revision of the EU Ecolabel Criteria for Cosmetic Products and Animal Care Products (previously Rinse-off Cosmetic Products)
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA FOR ECO-DESIGN PRODUCTS o SELECTING RAW MATERIALS ACCORDING TO SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA Carbon footprint NATURAL INDEX or COSMOS Biodegradability (for rinse-off) Ecolabel criteria (aquatic toxicity for rinse-off)
o FORMULATION TECHNOLOGY o INDUSTRIALISATION PROCESS Cold/low temperature - below 50°C Energy control o PACKAGING Material, recycling, reuse, recovery o COMMUNICATION AND MARKETING Consumer awareness
Sustainability without giving up:
FORMULATION COST
SENSORIALITY
STABILITY
QUALITY
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET KLORANE Sun Radiance Hair Care ECO-CONCEIVED Biodegradable formula (Under OECD 301B standard)
AVÈNE TriXera Nutrition Environmental impact o Recyclable packaging (according to French recycling legislation) o Biodegradable formula** o 86% ingredients of natural origin **According to OECD 301B test
https://www.pierre-fabre.com/it-it/i-nostriimpegni/Green-Impact-Index
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
GARNIER Water-Saving No-Rinse Conditioner Garnier has announced a green science-led product innovation in the form of a No Rinse Conditioner, estimated to save 100 liters of water per tube.
NIVEA MEN Climate Care Moisturizer Beiersdorf Launches The World’s First Beauty Product With Recycled CO2. Beiersdorf has hit a milestone for the cosmetics industry as it debuts its first beauty product to use an ingredient obtained from recycled carbon dioxide, reducing harmful emissions and contributing to a climate-positive future. This is made possible by the carbon capture and utilization (CCU) process, which is an ultramodern method for making use of carbon, according to Beiersdorf. Nivea Men Climate Care Moisturizer is climateneutralized and manufactured using electricity from 100% renewable sources. The formula is 99% biodegradable, with fully recyclable packaging.
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SUSTAINGREDIENTS
THREE SHIPS BEAUTY Brighter Days Three Ships Beauty is launching its 100% Biodegradable Eye Masks, which feature red algae extract and avocado extract.
FORGO Foaming Hand Wash This foaming hand wash is designed as a sustainable alternative to liquid soap. A simple formula for a powder that can be mixed with hot water to make liquid soap with reusable bottles that turn the soap into foaming hand wash. TECHNOLOGY & INGREDIENTS: o All ingredients are naturally derived; all are considered safe by EWG Skin Deep® and 5 are COSMOS-certified. o Reduced to the essential ingredients: 6 ingredients of over 1% content. o The sachet is sourced sustainably, its coating dissolves in the normal paper recycling or composting stream. o Products are shipped in recycled paper boxes and envelopes.
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FORMULATIONS
SUSTAINGREDIENTS FORMULATIONS “SUSTAINABILITY MADE EASY” o Soft&Mild SustainCleanser
TE3-0-009
o Biphasic SustainSerum
SL2-0-003
o Rinse-Off SustainMask
EM1-2-133
The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.
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TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients NI >79%* NOI >99%*
Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009
Fluffy and soft cleansing mousse, extremely delicate, suitable for sensitive skin. The product is designed in compliance with sustainability requirements, selecting 100% biodegradable ingredients and using a cold process. WAS of surfactants is 12%; a mild Biodegradable and allergen-free Hemp and Agave fragrance makes the product even more pleasant.
WHY SUSTAINABLE? Cleansers, like other rinse-off products, impact the environment mostly during the in-use and end-of-life phase.
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
RINSE-OFF NATURAL ORIGIN INDEX > 99%* 100% BIODEGRADABLE INGREDIENTS** BY COLD MANUFACTURING PROCESS
SustaIngredients % SOURCING of % GREEN NATURAL the natural raw SYNTHETIC CHEMISTRY sources material sources process
PRODUCT ID
SUPPLIER
ORIGIN
GRADE of biodegradability
AMISOFT ECS-22W
Ajinomoto Omnichem
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal and mineral
0
Yes
PRODEW 700
Ajinomoto Omnichem
Semisynthetic
/
80
Vegetal
20
n.a.
EVICIDE LEVULINATE S
Evident Ingredients
Semisynthetic
Readily biodegradable
90
Vegetal
10
Yes
PUREACT 138
Innospec
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Coconut, palm and corn
0
n.a.
PUREACT GLUCO C
Innospec
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Cocnut, palm and corn
0
n.a.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009
NI >79%* NOI >99%*
Soft and mild detergent foamer. Pick up by dispenser the right quantity of the product and gently massage for a few seconds, spreading it evenly on the skin; finally, rinse off with warm water and dab the skin.
Ecodesign Formulation RINSE-OFF PRODUCT → Ingredients have an impact on Design, Sourcing, Manufacturing and Post Consumer Phase DESIGN
During the ideation of the product, we considered the impact on the environment, especially biodegradability and Ecolabel (aquatic toxicity). Packaging is recyclable. SOURCING
We selected ingredients in our portfolio with the highest N.O.I, prioritizing the ones COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. MANUFACTURING
Cold manufacturing processes have a lower impact on energy and water consumption, decreasing carbon emissions, waste and production costs. POST CONSUMER PHASE
Soft&Mild SustainCleanser contains ingredients 100%* biodegradable, respecting the aquatic environment.
* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . ** Please refer to the SustaIngredients catalogue for the experimental protocols used to verify the biodegradability of the ingredients. To report “biodegradable” claim, biodegradability must be tested on the final product.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009
NI >79%* NOI >99%*
Fluffy and soft cleansing mousse, extremely delicate, suitable for sensitive skin; this texture leaves the skin clean and moisturized, thanks to a balanced combination of mild surfactants and amino acid derivatives from Prodew 700. Suitable to be produced also in concentrated version.
o TEXTURE: soft mousse o FINISH: clean, conditioned thanks to prodew 700 o BEAUTY BENEFITS: easy to use, excellent skin feel for face and body leaving them hydrated and clean. o SKIN FEEL: mild and soft o FORMAT: 50mL bottle "foamer in HDPE" by Simonetta.
KEY INGREDIENTS Amisoft ECS-22W Anionic surfactant produced from amino acid L-Glutamic acid and plant-derived palm kernel fatty acid. It is natural, mild, eco-friendly, and easy to use in formulations. Pureact 138 A natural, mild surfactant combination comprised of Decyl Glucoside and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate. It is an optimized blend that requires no heat, is easy to use, and provides exceptional foaming. Pureact Gluco C Made from natural and renewable raw materials. It’s readily biodegradable, very mild to skin and mucus membranes, and offers synergistic effects with other surfactants that reduce irritation and improves foam quality.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009
NI >79%* NOI >99%*
Formula
Chemical/physical characteristics
Manufacturing process
Appearance:
Foam: white compact and soft foam
pH:
≥ 4,80 ≤ 5,50
A. Weight component of phase A at room temperature and homogenized
Viscosity:
n.a.
B. add B to A
Stability:
Stove 40°C 3 month
C.Add C to A-B
Free from: PEG, SLES, Parabens, Silicones
* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients NI >89%* NOI >92%*
Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003
A double face serum, moisturizing and emollient indicated for mature skin, particularly dry. The product is designed in compliance with sustainability requirements, using 100% biodegradable raw materials.
WHY SUSTAINABLE? Considering the LCA, serums, as other leave-on products, have more impact on the designing, sourcing and manufacturing phases.
✓ ✓ ✓
LEAVE-ON NATURAL ORIGIN INDEX > 92% BY COLD MANUFACTURING PROCESS
SustaIngredients % SOURCING of % GREEN NATURAL the natural raw SYNTHETIC CHEMISTRY sources material sources process
PRODUCT ID
SUPPLIER
ORIGIN
GRADE of biodegradability
EVICIDE LEVULINATE S
Evident Ingredients
Semisynthetic
Readily biodegradable
90
Vegetal
10
Yes
EVICIDE G 5 ECO
Evident Ingredients
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
Yes
EVICARE AQUATEX 80
Evident Ingredients
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
n.a.
EVICARE TOCO SOY
Evident Ingredients
Natural
Inherently biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
n.a.
WICKENOL 159
Alzo
Synthetic
n.a.
0
/
100
No
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
No
100
No
BEANTREE
Alzo
BLUSH OLÈOACTIF
Hallstar
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal (Persicaria tinctoria and Rapeseed)
DW JOJOBA COLOURLESS ORGANIC
Vantage
Natural
Readily Biodegradable
100
Vegetal (Jojoba)
0
n.a.
MACADAMIA NUT OIL
Nikko
Natural
n.a.
100
Vegetal (Macadamia seed)
0
No
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003
NI >89%* NOI >92%*
The ingredients of the 2 phases were carefully selected according to some specific criteria: preference of certified raw materials; cold process method to avoid energy consumption; evaluation of chemical characteristics suitable for a biphasic system, to allow a good mixing of the oily phase in the aqueous but at the same time the separation of the phases quickly.
Ecodesign Formulation LEAVE-ON PRODUCT → Ingredients have an impact on Design, Sourcing and Manufacturing
DESIGN
During the ideation of the product, we considered the CO2 impact and the biodegradability of the ingredients. Packaging is completely recyclable, besides from the bulb, necessarily made of nitrile for compatibility with the oils contained in the product. SOURCING
We selected ingredients in our portfolio with the highest N.O.I, prioritizing the ones COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. MANUFACTURING
Raw materials in Biphasic SustainSerum are easily soluble in water or oil, reducing manufacturing time. The cold process of it, free from emulsifiers, avoids heating and reduces energy consumption in industrial production.
* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . ** Please refer to the SustaIngredients catalogue for the experimental protocols used to verify the biodegradability of the ingredients. To report “biodegradable” claim, biodegradability must be tested on the final product.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003
NI >89%* NOI >92%*
A double phase serum, moisturizing and emollient indicated for mature skin, particularly dry. It is rich in natural oils such as Jojoba and Macadamia that nourish the skin.
o ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Blush Oleoactif® o TEXTURE: silky o FINISH: the blend of the 2 phases gives a rich but nongreasy finish. o BEAUTY BENEFITS: easy to apply o SKIN FEEL: moisturizing and emollient o FORMAT: recycled (PCR 60% PIR 30%) and recyclable 15 mL glass bottle "Laura" by Eurovetrocap.
KEY INGREDIENTS Macadamia Nut Oil It contains Omega-7 and phytosterols effective to reduce Itchiness; it nourishes the mature and dry skin and helps to prevent mature wrinkles; it has an antioxidant effect. Evicare Aquatex 80 Xanthan gum powder, characterized by the ability to form, compared to common xanthan gums, more transparent gels.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003
NI >89%* NOI >92%*
Formula
Chemical/physical characteristics
Manufacturing process
Appearance:
Biphasic fluid serum: pink oil phase, colorless water phase
A. Mix the ingredients.
pH:
≥ 5,00 ≤ 5,50
A1. Mix ingredients and add to phase A. Check the pH and, if it is necessary, adjust it.
Viscosity:
n.a.
B. Mix the ingredients and add them slowly to phase A.
Stability:
Under test
FREE FROM: PEG, SLES, Parabens, Silicones
* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients NI >81%* NOI >94%*
Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133
The main characteristics of this O/W emulsion are the easy spreadability, the nourishing texture, and the high concentration of vegetable oils, that ensure excellent emollient and protective properties. It can also be used as a leave-on face cream for very dry skin.
WHY SUSTAINABLE? Masks are usually complex formulas with many ingredients. Choosing the most sustainable raw materials could reduce the impact on all the life cycle phases.
✓ ✓ ✓
MULTIPURPOSE PRODUCT: RINSE-OFF MASK AND LLEAVE-ON CREAM FOR DRIER SKIN NATURAL ORIGIN INDEX > 94%* 100% BIODEGRADABLE INGREDIENTS**
SustaIngredients PRODUCT ID
EVICIDE G 5 ECO EVICARE AQUATEX 80 EVICARE TOCO CANOLA EVICIDE ROSE ECO
SUPPLIER
Evident Ingredients Evident Ingredients Evident Ingredients Evident Ingredients
ORIGIN
GRADE of biodegradability
% NATURAL sources
SOURCING of the natural raw material
% GREEN SYNTHETIC CHEMISTRY sources process
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
Yes
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
n.a.
Natural
Inherently biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
n.a.
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
Yes
WICKENOL 159
Alzo
Synthetic
Readily biodegradable
0
/
100
No
EPS SEAFILL PA
Codif Technologie Naturelle
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal, mineral and biosynthesic
0
n.a.
DW JOJOBA COLOURLESS ORGANIC
Vantage
Natural
Readily Biodegradable
100
Vegetal (Jojoba)
0
n.a.
JOJOBA ESTERS 70
Vantage
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
n.a.
LIPOBUTTER SHEA DWJ
Vantage
Natural
Readily biodegradable
100
Vegetal
0
n.a.
LIPOVOL O
Vantage
Natural
Readily Biodegradable
100
Vegetal (Olive)
0
n.a.
0
n.a.
LIPOVOL ALM-N
Vantage
Natural
Readily Biodegradable
100
Vegetal (Sweet Almond)
AMIHOPE SB-102
Ajinomoto Omnichem
Natural
Readily Biodegradable
100
Vegetal and mineral
0
n.a.
0
No
25
No
MACADAMIA NUT OIL PUREPHOS ALPHA
Nikko Nikko
Natural
n.a.
100
Vegetal (Macadamia seed)
Semisynthetic
n.a.
75
Vegetal
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133
NI >81%* NOI >94%*
A moisturizing and emollient face mask designed in compliance with the sustainability requirements of the project, using 100% biodegradable raw materials, thus respecting the aquatic environment, after its rinsing.
Ecodesign Formulation MULTIPURPOSE PRODUCT: RINSE-OFF MASK AND LEAVE-ON CREAM FOR DRIER SKIN → Ingredients have an impact on Design, Sourcing and Post Consumer Phase DESIGN
During the ideation of the product, we considered the CO2 impact and the biodegradability of the ingredients. Packaging is recyclable. SOURCING
We selected ingredients in our portfolio with the highest N.O.I, prioritizing the ones COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. MANUFACTURING
Rinse-Off SustainMask contains ingredients 100%* biodegradable, respecting the aquatic environment
* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . ** Please refer to the SustaIngredients catalogue for the experimental protocols used to verify the biodegradability of the ingredients. To report “biodegradable” claim, biodegradability must be tested on the final product.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133
NI >81%* NOI >94%*
It is an O/W emulsion containing Purephos Alpha and Xanthan gum as a natural jellifying agent in the hydrophilic phase . The innovative emulsifier forms a stable α-gel with Arginine, able to retain a large amount of water inside; when blended with oils Purephos gives a no sticky texture, with a refreshing feel and excellent moisturizing properties. A high concentration of vegetable oils (jojoba, olive, almond and macadamia) ensure excellent emollient and protective properties. It is recommended to apply the product to the face in the evening and leave on for about 15 minutes, then rinse it off; for drier skin, it is recommended to extend the treatment throughout the night, as leave-on face cream. o ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: EPS Seafill PA o TEXTURE: light but emollient o FINISH: matte o BEAUTY BENEFITS: the mask spreads easily, has a rich and nourishing texture. The skin is long-term hydrated and moisturized.
o FORMAT: airless slim 15 ml in PP (SR pack).
KEY INGREDIENTS Purephos Alpha It creates an alpha gel structure that binds water on the skin and forms a moisturizing layer with an improvement of skin texture and fine lines. Skin appears healthier and beautiful. Amihope SB-102 Functional powder made of round-shaped particles based on natural-derived ingredients. A microplastic alternative with a pleasant sensory feeling and soft-focus properties.
TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133
NI >81%* NOI >94%*
Formula
Chemical/physical characteristics
Manufacturing process
Appearance:
white cream
pH:
≥ 5,00 ≤ 5,50
A. disperse xanthan gum into glycerin and then add the other ingredient and heat up to 75°C.
Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 20°C):
≥ 10,000 ≤ 14,000 mPa·s
B. heat up to 75°C and add it to phase A under homogenisation.
Stability:
under test
C. disperse powders into the emulsion D. add below 40°C
E. add below 40°C F. add below 40°C.
FREE FROM: PEG, SLES, Parabens, Silicones * Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.
Via M. F. Quintiliano, 30 20138 Milano – Italy Tel: +39 02 5097 1 Fax: +39 02 5097 266 www.prodottigianni.it www.cosmesi.it
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