SustaIngredients “Sustainability made easy”

Formulations Catalogue

Project carried out in collaboration with Unired S.r.l., a spin-off of the Universita’ degli Studi di Padova.

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

SUSTAINGREDIENTS Sustainable Formulations Edition INTRODUCTION The process of collecting all information about sustainability of each ingredients from our Suppliers has started. The SustaIngredients catalogue is ongoing project and it will be implemented and updated in the next editions. Our Suppliers are all collaborating with us in this project to bring to our customers all the information requested. Some of them has already started with a Corporate CSR and are ready to provide all the ESG results and data measurement. For some other the process has started but in progress. In collaboration with Unired S.r.l., we developed 3 sustainable formulations following sustainability criteria for developing eco-design products.

www.cosmesi.it

CONTENTS: SUSTAINGREDIENTS SUSTAINABILITY AND THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY ECO DESIGN AND LCA PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET

FORMULATIONS SUSTAINGREDIENTS FORMULATIONS Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009 Biphasic SustainSerum

SL2-0-003

Rinse-Off SustainMask

EM1-2-133

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

SUSTAINABILITY AND THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY In the age of conscious consumerism and demand for transparency, consumers want to know what actionable steps the beauty industry is taking to reduce its environmental impact and to help fight climate change. From the sourcing of ingredients, to how products are manufactured, what they’re packaged in, how they’re shipped, and all the way to how they’re disposed of, the beauty industry is a key focus for climate- and carbonconscious consumers. Being dubbed “environmentally-friendly” often depends on a brand’s clean ingredients, waterless formulations, sustainable packaging, or zero-waste procedures.

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

ECO DESIGN AND LCA ECODESIGN* Product design according to environmental criteria to find the best compromise between cost, process, regulatory aspects and consumer expectations * ISO/TR 14062:2002 Environmental management — Integrating environmental aspects into product design and development

SUSTAINABLE DESIGN – Cosmetic Product OUTPUT

INPUT SOURCING

PRODUCTS RAW MATERIALS WASTE WATER

MANUFACTURING PROCESS EMISSIONS

ENERGY

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

IMPACT OF THE INGREDIENTS IN A COSMETIC PRODUCT LCA o

To make a sustainable product it is crucial to consider the environmental performance of the product throughout its life cycle.

o

The Life Cycle Assessment allows the identification of the environmental hotspots along the life cycle of a product which could be in terms of raw material consumption, packaging, use phase, and end-of-life management.

o

Selection of raw materials is a key step in the LCA: a balance between sustainability and technological performance must be achieved.

DESIGN

SOURCING

MANUFACTURING

Ideation of the product considering the sustainability profile of ingredients and packaging. For ingredients main features are biodegradability, NOI, Ecocert/Cosmos, carbon footprint, Ecolabel criteria, manufacturing process.

The design of the product content must evaluate the sourcing of the raw materials: cultivation, extraction, synthesis process and country of origin.

Ingredients that can be processed with cold manufacturing have a lower impact on energy and water consumption, decreasing carbon emissions, waste and production costs.

POST CONSUMER PHASE

CONSUMER USE

DISTRIBUTION

The impact of post consumer phase is related mainly to packaging. Impact of ingredients concerns biodegradability and aquatic toxicity for rinse-off products.

Impact of ingredients in product use is related to the type of formulation. For rinseoff, it is possible to minimize water waste during use, for leave-on the impact is not relevant.

Environmental impact of distribution of the finished product from production to shops. Ingredients that permits to produce concentrated or powder products, since the lower unit weight, allows to optimize transport, reducing the impact on CO2 emissions.

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

LCA OF A PRODUCT: LEAVE-ON VS RINSE-OFF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT ANALYSIS OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS:

o LEAVE-ON products The SOURCING of raw materials has the greatest impact on environmental impact → evaluation of CO2 consumption, extraction, synthesis of raw materials. o RINSE-OFF products The USE and END-OF-LIFE have the greatest impact → evaluation of biodegradability, ecotoxicity.

From https://publications.jrc.ec.europa.eu/repository/handle/JRC126061 Revision of the EU Ecolabel Criteria for Cosmetic Products and Animal Care Products (previously Rinse-off Cosmetic Products)

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA FOR ECO-DESIGN PRODUCTS o SELECTING RAW MATERIALS ACCORDING TO SUSTAINABILITY CRITERIA Carbon footprint NATURAL INDEX or COSMOS Biodegradability (for rinse-off) Ecolabel criteria (aquatic toxicity for rinse-off)

o FORMULATION TECHNOLOGY o INDUSTRIALISATION PROCESS Cold/low temperature - below 50°C Energy control o PACKAGING Material, recycling, reuse, recovery o COMMUNICATION AND MARKETING Consumer awareness

Sustainability without giving up:

FORMULATION COST

SENSORIALITY

STABILITY

QUALITY

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET KLORANE Sun Radiance Hair Care ECO-CONCEIVED Biodegradable formula (Under OECD 301B standard)

AVÈNE TriXera Nutrition Environmental impact o Recyclable packaging (according to French recycling legislation) o Biodegradable formula** o 86% ingredients of natural origin **According to OECD 301B test

https://www.pierre-fabre.com/it-it/i-nostriimpegni/Green-Impact-Index

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

GARNIER Water-Saving No-Rinse Conditioner Garnier has announced a green science-led product innovation in the form of a No Rinse Conditioner, estimated to save 100 liters of water per tube.

NIVEA MEN Climate Care Moisturizer Beiersdorf Launches The World’s First Beauty Product With Recycled CO2. Beiersdorf has hit a milestone for the cosmetics industry as it debuts its first beauty product to use an ingredient obtained from recycled carbon dioxide, reducing harmful emissions and contributing to a climate-positive future. This is made possible by the carbon capture and utilization (CCU) process, which is an ultramodern method for making use of carbon, according to Beiersdorf. Nivea Men Climate Care Moisturizer is climateneutralized and manufactured using electricity from 100% renewable sources. The formula is 99% biodegradable, with fully recyclable packaging.

www.cosmesi.it

SUSTAINGREDIENTS

THREE SHIPS BEAUTY Brighter Days Three Ships Beauty is launching its 100% Biodegradable Eye Masks, which feature red algae extract and avocado extract.

FORGO Foaming Hand Wash This foaming hand wash is designed as a sustainable alternative to liquid soap. A simple formula for a powder that can be mixed with hot water to make liquid soap with reusable bottles that turn the soap into foaming hand wash. TECHNOLOGY & INGREDIENTS: o All ingredients are naturally derived; all are considered safe by EWG Skin Deep® and 5 are COSMOS-certified. o Reduced to the essential ingredients: 6 ingredients of over 1% content. o The sachet is sourced sustainably, its coating dissolves in the normal paper recycling or composting stream. o Products are shipped in recycled paper boxes and envelopes.

www.cosmesi.it

FORMULATIONS

SUSTAINGREDIENTS FORMULATIONS “SUSTAINABILITY MADE EASY” o Soft&Mild SustainCleanser

TE3-0-009

o Biphasic SustainSerum

SL2-0-003

o Rinse-Off SustainMask

EM1-2-133

The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.

www.cosmesi.it

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients NI >79%* NOI >99%*

Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009

Fluffy and soft cleansing mousse, extremely delicate, suitable for sensitive skin. The product is designed in compliance with sustainability requirements, selecting 100% biodegradable ingredients and using a cold process. WAS of surfactants is 12%; a mild Biodegradable and allergen-free Hemp and Agave fragrance makes the product even more pleasant.

WHY SUSTAINABLE? Cleansers, like other rinse-off products, impact the environment mostly during the in-use and end-of-life phase.

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

RINSE-OFF NATURAL ORIGIN INDEX > 99%* 100% BIODEGRADABLE INGREDIENTS** BY COLD MANUFACTURING PROCESS

SustaIngredients % SOURCING of % GREEN NATURAL the natural raw SYNTHETIC CHEMISTRY sources material sources process

PRODUCT ID

SUPPLIER

ORIGIN

GRADE of biodegradability

AMISOFT ECS-22W

Ajinomoto Omnichem

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal and mineral

0

Yes

PRODEW 700

Ajinomoto Omnichem

Semisynthetic

/

80

Vegetal

20

n.a.

EVICIDE LEVULINATE S

Evident Ingredients

Semisynthetic

Readily biodegradable

90

Vegetal

10

Yes

PUREACT 138

Innospec

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Coconut, palm and corn

0

n.a.

PUREACT GLUCO C

Innospec

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Cocnut, palm and corn

0

n.a.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009

NI >79%* NOI >99%*

Soft and mild detergent foamer. Pick up by dispenser the right quantity of the product and gently massage for a few seconds, spreading it evenly on the skin; finally, rinse off with warm water and dab the skin.

Ecodesign Formulation RINSE-OFF PRODUCT → Ingredients have an impact on Design, Sourcing, Manufacturing and Post Consumer Phase DESIGN

During the ideation of the product, we considered the impact on the environment, especially biodegradability and Ecolabel (aquatic toxicity). Packaging is recyclable. SOURCING

We selected ingredients in our portfolio with the highest N.O.I, prioritizing the ones COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. MANUFACTURING

Cold manufacturing processes have a lower impact on energy and water consumption, decreasing carbon emissions, waste and production costs. POST CONSUMER PHASE

Soft&Mild SustainCleanser contains ingredients 100%* biodegradable, respecting the aquatic environment.

* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . ** Please refer to the SustaIngredients catalogue for the experimental protocols used to verify the biodegradability of the ingredients. To report “biodegradable” claim, biodegradability must be tested on the final product.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009

NI >79%* NOI >99%*

Fluffy and soft cleansing mousse, extremely delicate, suitable for sensitive skin; this texture leaves the skin clean and moisturized, thanks to a balanced combination of mild surfactants and amino acid derivatives from Prodew 700. Suitable to be produced also in concentrated version.

o TEXTURE: soft mousse o FINISH: clean, conditioned thanks to prodew 700 o BEAUTY BENEFITS: easy to use, excellent skin feel for face and body leaving them hydrated and clean. o SKIN FEEL: mild and soft o FORMAT: 50mL bottle "foamer in HDPE" by Simonetta.

KEY INGREDIENTS Amisoft ECS-22W Anionic surfactant produced from amino acid L-Glutamic acid and plant-derived palm kernel fatty acid. It is natural, mild, eco-friendly, and easy to use in formulations. Pureact 138 A natural, mild surfactant combination comprised of Decyl Glucoside and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate. It is an optimized blend that requires no heat, is easy to use, and provides exceptional foaming. Pureact Gluco C Made from natural and renewable raw materials. It’s readily biodegradable, very mild to skin and mucus membranes, and offers synergistic effects with other surfactants that reduce irritation and improves foam quality.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Soft&Mild SustainCleanser TE3-0-009

NI >79%* NOI >99%*

Formula

Chemical/physical characteristics

Manufacturing process

Appearance:

Foam: white compact and soft foam

pH:

≥ 4,80 ≤ 5,50

A. Weight component of phase A at room temperature and homogenized

Viscosity:

n.a.

B. add B to A

Stability:

Stove 40°C 3 month

C.Add C to A-B

Free from: PEG, SLES, Parabens, Silicones

* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients NI >89%* NOI >92%*

Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003

A double face serum, moisturizing and emollient indicated for mature skin, particularly dry. The product is designed in compliance with sustainability requirements, using 100% biodegradable raw materials.

WHY SUSTAINABLE? Considering the LCA, serums, as other leave-on products, have more impact on the designing, sourcing and manufacturing phases.

✓ ✓ ✓

LEAVE-ON NATURAL ORIGIN INDEX > 92% BY COLD MANUFACTURING PROCESS

SustaIngredients % SOURCING of % GREEN NATURAL the natural raw SYNTHETIC CHEMISTRY sources material sources process

PRODUCT ID

SUPPLIER

ORIGIN

GRADE of biodegradability

EVICIDE LEVULINATE S

Evident Ingredients

Semisynthetic

Readily biodegradable

90

Vegetal

10

Yes

EVICIDE G 5 ECO

Evident Ingredients

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

Yes

EVICARE AQUATEX 80

Evident Ingredients

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

n.a.

EVICARE TOCO SOY

Evident Ingredients

Natural

Inherently biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

n.a.

WICKENOL 159

Alzo

Synthetic

n.a.

0

/

100

No

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

No

100

No

BEANTREE

Alzo

BLUSH OLÈOACTIF

Hallstar

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal (Persicaria tinctoria and Rapeseed)

DW JOJOBA COLOURLESS ORGANIC

Vantage

Natural

Readily Biodegradable

100

Vegetal (Jojoba)

0

n.a.

MACADAMIA NUT OIL

Nikko

Natural

n.a.

100

Vegetal (Macadamia seed)

0

No

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003

NI >89%* NOI >92%*

The ingredients of the 2 phases were carefully selected according to some specific criteria: preference of certified raw materials; cold process method to avoid energy consumption; evaluation of chemical characteristics suitable for a biphasic system, to allow a good mixing of the oily phase in the aqueous but at the same time the separation of the phases quickly.

Ecodesign Formulation LEAVE-ON PRODUCT → Ingredients have an impact on Design, Sourcing and Manufacturing

DESIGN

During the ideation of the product, we considered the CO2 impact and the biodegradability of the ingredients. Packaging is completely recyclable, besides from the bulb, necessarily made of nitrile for compatibility with the oils contained in the product. SOURCING

We selected ingredients in our portfolio with the highest N.O.I, prioritizing the ones COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. MANUFACTURING

Raw materials in Biphasic SustainSerum are easily soluble in water or oil, reducing manufacturing time. The cold process of it, free from emulsifiers, avoids heating and reduces energy consumption in industrial production.

* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . ** Please refer to the SustaIngredients catalogue for the experimental protocols used to verify the biodegradability of the ingredients. To report “biodegradable” claim, biodegradability must be tested on the final product.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003

NI >89%* NOI >92%*

A double phase serum, moisturizing and emollient indicated for mature skin, particularly dry. It is rich in natural oils such as Jojoba and Macadamia that nourish the skin.

o ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Blush Oleoactif® o TEXTURE: silky o FINISH: the blend of the 2 phases gives a rich but nongreasy finish. o BEAUTY BENEFITS: easy to apply o SKIN FEEL: moisturizing and emollient o FORMAT: recycled (PCR 60% PIR 30%) and recyclable 15 mL glass bottle "Laura" by Eurovetrocap.

KEY INGREDIENTS Macadamia Nut Oil It contains Omega-7 and phytosterols effective to reduce Itchiness; it nourishes the mature and dry skin and helps to prevent mature wrinkles; it has an antioxidant effect. Evicare Aquatex 80 Xanthan gum powder, characterized by the ability to form, compared to common xanthan gums, more transparent gels.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Biphasic SustainSerum SL2-0-003

NI >89%* NOI >92%*

Formula

Chemical/physical characteristics

Manufacturing process

Appearance:

Biphasic fluid serum: pink oil phase, colorless water phase

A. Mix the ingredients.

pH:

≥ 5,00 ≤ 5,50

A1. Mix ingredients and add to phase A. Check the pH and, if it is necessary, adjust it.

Viscosity:

n.a.

B. Mix the ingredients and add them slowly to phase A.

Stability:

Under test

FREE FROM: PEG, SLES, Parabens, Silicones

* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients NI >81%* NOI >94%*

Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133

The main characteristics of this O/W emulsion are the easy spreadability, the nourishing texture, and the high concentration of vegetable oils, that ensure excellent emollient and protective properties. It can also be used as a leave-on face cream for very dry skin.

WHY SUSTAINABLE? Masks are usually complex formulas with many ingredients. Choosing the most sustainable raw materials could reduce the impact on all the life cycle phases.

✓ ✓ ✓

MULTIPURPOSE PRODUCT: RINSE-OFF MASK AND LLEAVE-ON CREAM FOR DRIER SKIN NATURAL ORIGIN INDEX > 94%* 100% BIODEGRADABLE INGREDIENTS**

SustaIngredients PRODUCT ID

EVICIDE G 5 ECO EVICARE AQUATEX 80 EVICARE TOCO CANOLA EVICIDE ROSE ECO

SUPPLIER

Evident Ingredients Evident Ingredients Evident Ingredients Evident Ingredients

ORIGIN

GRADE of biodegradability

% NATURAL sources

SOURCING of the natural raw material

% GREEN SYNTHETIC CHEMISTRY sources process

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

Yes

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

n.a.

Natural

Inherently biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

n.a.

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

Yes

WICKENOL 159

Alzo

Synthetic

Readily biodegradable

0

/

100

No

EPS SEAFILL PA

Codif Technologie Naturelle

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal, mineral and biosynthesic

0

n.a.

DW JOJOBA COLOURLESS ORGANIC

Vantage

Natural

Readily Biodegradable

100

Vegetal (Jojoba)

0

n.a.

JOJOBA ESTERS 70

Vantage

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

n.a.

LIPOBUTTER SHEA DWJ

Vantage

Natural

Readily biodegradable

100

Vegetal

0

n.a.

LIPOVOL O

Vantage

Natural

Readily Biodegradable

100

Vegetal (Olive)

0

n.a.

0

n.a.

LIPOVOL ALM-N

Vantage

Natural

Readily Biodegradable

100

Vegetal (Sweet Almond)

AMIHOPE SB-102

Ajinomoto Omnichem

Natural

Readily Biodegradable

100

Vegetal and mineral

0

n.a.

0

No

25

No

MACADAMIA NUT OIL PUREPHOS ALPHA

Nikko Nikko

Natural

n.a.

100

Vegetal (Macadamia seed)

Semisynthetic

n.a.

75

Vegetal

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133

NI >81%* NOI >94%*

A moisturizing and emollient face mask designed in compliance with the sustainability requirements of the project, using 100% biodegradable raw materials, thus respecting the aquatic environment, after its rinsing.

Ecodesign Formulation MULTIPURPOSE PRODUCT: RINSE-OFF MASK AND LEAVE-ON CREAM FOR DRIER SKIN → Ingredients have an impact on Design, Sourcing and Post Consumer Phase DESIGN

During the ideation of the product, we considered the CO2 impact and the biodegradability of the ingredients. Packaging is recyclable. SOURCING

We selected ingredients in our portfolio with the highest N.O.I, prioritizing the ones COSMOS/ECOCERT certified. MANUFACTURING

Rinse-Off SustainMask contains ingredients 100%* biodegradable, respecting the aquatic environment

* Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . ** Please refer to the SustaIngredients catalogue for the experimental protocols used to verify the biodegradability of the ingredients. To report “biodegradable” claim, biodegradability must be tested on the final product.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133

NI >81%* NOI >94%*

It is an O/W emulsion containing Purephos Alpha and Xanthan gum as a natural jellifying agent in the hydrophilic phase . The innovative emulsifier forms a stable α-gel with Arginine, able to retain a large amount of water inside; when blended with oils Purephos gives a no sticky texture, with a refreshing feel and excellent moisturizing properties. A high concentration of vegetable oils (jojoba, olive, almond and macadamia) ensure excellent emollient and protective properties. It is recommended to apply the product to the face in the evening and leave on for about 15 minutes, then rinse it off; for drier skin, it is recommended to extend the treatment throughout the night, as leave-on face cream. o ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: EPS Seafill PA o TEXTURE: light but emollient o FINISH: matte o BEAUTY BENEFITS: the mask spreads easily, has a rich and nourishing texture. The skin is long-term hydrated and moisturized.

o FORMAT: airless slim 15 ml in PP (SR pack).

KEY INGREDIENTS Purephos Alpha It creates an alpha gel structure that binds water on the skin and forms a moisturizing layer with an improvement of skin texture and fine lines. Skin appears healthier and beautiful. Amihope SB-102 Functional powder made of round-shaped particles based on natural-derived ingredients. A microplastic alternative with a pleasant sensory feeling and soft-focus properties.

TECHNICAL PROFILE SustaIngredients Rinse-Off SustainMask EM1-2-133

NI >81%* NOI >94%*

Formula

Chemical/physical characteristics

Manufacturing process

Appearance:

white cream

pH:

≥ 5,00 ≤ 5,50

A. disperse xanthan gum into glycerin and then add the other ingredient and heat up to 75°C.

Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 20°C):

≥ 10,000 ≤ 14,000 mPa·s

B. heat up to 75°C and add it to phase A under homogenisation.

Stability:

under test

C. disperse powders into the emulsion D. add below 40°C

E. add below 40°C F. add below 40°C.

FREE FROM: PEG, SLES, Parabens, Silicones * Calculated on ingredients for which a NI and NOI certificate are available . The stability tests performed on our prototypes are preliminary and do not replace the combined protocols necessary for the commercialization of a finished product. The preservative system has not been tested for its effectiveness but has been included for precautionary purposes in the concentrations and methods of use indicated by the manufacturer.

Via M. F. Quintiliano, 30 20138 Milano – Italy Tel: +39 02 5097 1 Fax: +39 02 5097 266 www.prodottigianni.it www.cosmesi.it [email protected]