RUSE

Volume 1 December 2022

Creativity to

RECOVERY

LOEWE

LOEWE

CONTENT 6 New besties in town, McQueens IT Girls, Living Together

10 Shine Scandal

13 Design school experimental clothing -OOTDs

15 Uprising of V(irtual) Fashion : Keep up or be kept out ?

20 Folk to Floor

24 Meta Brands

29 Amalgam

37 Barbie Fever

39 My way is the highway

43 Pop-Up Party

59 Desi ‘Hallyu’

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What to do when you are at a creative dead end ?

Sustainability : Real or a hoax ?

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69

Creativity to Recovery

Differences

51 How to deal with a copycat ?

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73 Genderless

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Retro Eye

Easy love and New Age Expectations

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85

Who is she ?

Evolving canvases

91 Merry Indie Melody

95 Essence : Not lost

99 Breaking Monotony

101 Ruse Finds

METAMAN

Editor’s Note

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hen it comes to expressing oneself in a world of infinite possibilities, the obvious way is to create. Creation comes in many forms, art being the predominant one. Through generations art has expressed and generated emotions and helped and evolved the way one looks at the world. Art is something we do, a verb, an expression of our thoughts, emotions, intuitions, and desires, but it is even more personal than that. Works of art may elicit a sense of wonder or cynicism, hope or despair, adoration or spite; the work of art may be direct or complex, subtle or explicit, intelligible or obscure; and the subjects and approaches to the creation of art are bounded only by the imagination of the artist. For this edition of Ruse we looked at various artforms - accepted, unspoken, lost, evolving, historic as well as futuristic. The emotive power of creativity and art is now recognized scientifically therapeutic which makes one wonder the essence of a peaceful lifestyle. Our cover story talks about the healing capability of expressive art and the soothing effect it can have on one’s lifestyle. The intimate relationship one conquests through art with themselves is bound by no curtailment. As a magazine, Ruse celebrates all artforms and people who use art to express their creative energy and therefore create. We celebrate artists of all sorts, designers and brands that have gone out of their way for expression. Fashion, beauty and lifestyle are now looking up to subjects of art and expression to create. A peek into recent history and nostalgia, emerging concepts and futuristic phenomena are visualized and presented throughout the magazine. We hope to curate an artistic reader experience beyond language for you. Hope you like our creation.

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Contributors I am Deepika Vipanchika Jamuna, a 23 year old media and fashion enthusiast who passionately combines both the interests to create something really special and magical. Besides that making clothes for myself and styling them to photograph is my hobby and the list just goes on. Film maker by heart, fashion is my second love. I am a person who loves to do research to keep myself updated about what’s happening around the globe and my articles reflect that aspect of me.

I’m Megha Mahajan, a sucker for fashion and styling since 2001. I started my own blog and clothing label at the age of 19 after pursuing a diploma in fashion and business. While doing it, I developed a knack for writing which led me here to write really fun and engaging articles of indefinite value for Ruse. With my expertise in fashion, I like to explore and learn newer concepts of the industry. I aspire to educate and critique the various aspects this evergreen glitz and glamour industry has to offer.

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Sustainability REAL OR A HOAX ? read more on page 67

Ruse Trends

NEW BESTIES IN TOWN These two pretty shades combined together, create some chic looks that are sure to rid you of those winter blues.

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urple ink

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McQUEEN’s IT GIRLS Characterised by dark alluring staples mixed with a traditional approach towards tailoring, introducing the extravagent modest trench coats of the year

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LIVING TOGETHER

Art and history shared homes as designer labels started incorporating both into their work. Techniques of print and embroidery are making waves on runway for art adaptation.

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Shine Scandal

All things shiny have paved the way into our high-fashion wardrobes, again. Here’s how you can take that shine and radiate some light wherever you go. By Megha Mahajan

With each passing year comes the most talked about item in a man or woman’s closet. While 2019 gave us cycling shorts, 2020 belonged to sweatpants; a piece that so quickly replaced the conventional denim in our wardrobes. 2021 was a seemingly hopeful year where we reminisced about the romanticism of transitional and ethereal house dresses. The pandemic altered our wardrobes as well as our emotions concerning fashion. While doing so, casualization of style became a phenomenon. People started seeking solace in subtle tones. However this year we resumed the life that had taken a reflective slow pace. Post-pandemic fashion of 2022 stressed bringing the lost vibrance and shine to the personality of fashion. Labels from Celine to Carolina Herrera and Coperni are embracing this high shine. Not to forget, metallics scream glamor and are versatile regardless of age and gender . While the rule of thumb suggests pairing these hues with warm colors and earth tones, we suggest you can glam up your metallic game in these 4 ways.

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Crop down the shine with a blazer Blazer is a confident girl’s new best friend. A padded or well-fitted blazer is super versatile and can take you from work to cocktail hour. Matched with a blazer, a sequined dress can be transformed into the most exquisite piece in your wardrobe. When it comes to your shiny dress what better way to style it than to structure it right?

Statement it down For days when you have to dress up from your office and head straight down to the clubs , your sequined skirt can be teamed with your formal silk shirt. This gives a very put -together chic look. Instead of going all in with sheen , cut it down by having one piece of neutral clothing and you are good to hop between the boardroom and brunches.

One At A Time For the times when metallics seem extensive embrace the shine with both arms. But do not overdo it by mixing different metallic hues in a single ensemble. . Psst! A pro tip if you are a bridesmaid is to style rose gold and silver together.

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Structure and texture Don’t forget to play around with textures, structures and create a striking balance by experimenting with silhouettes. Take your silver sequined skirt and style it with your other silver silk skirt or cape. EXPERIMENT, EXPERIMENT, EXPERIMENT.

Gigi Hadid went one step further, making a case for fishnet frocks during the holiday season in a metallic look on the Chloé runway. Supermodel sisters of Victoria’s Secret, Gigi and Bella also braced asymmetric metallic outfits for the afterparty of the VS show. The cuts and details of rhinestones and beads in their outfits made the sisters look remarkable. Sequin has always been synonymous with occasion wear or party dressing. But that in no way should dissuade you from incorporating a little shine in your everyday wardrobe. It’s the season to be festive and young. So girls don’t shy away from putting your shiny foot forward.

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Design school experimental clothing -

OOTDS

“Punk and goth are my go-to aesthetics. My essentials are a black jacket with black stockings and a quirky black bag. I express my dark side with dark clothing hahah !”

Navya UG Fashion Communication L0

Clothing is an integral and essential part of fashion students everyday life, almost as important as oxygen. When it comes to dressing up students at Pearl Academy curate their looks like an everyday ramp show. Here are some of their college looks to draw inspiration from. By Deepika Krupali Vaghela UG Fashion Communication L0

“so I suppose my style mirrors both femme and masculine, and it all binds and gels together from a little black element I wear showcasing the unanimity between the “genders”. It’s quite abstract and at times contrary to the norms.”

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“Being a fashion designing student I like to mix and match hues as well as clothes. I love adding Indian touch to finish off my looks and yes I take an hour to get ready haha”

Nandha Gopal PG Fashion Design L2

“Basics basics basics.. Having some solid coloured tops or various lengths and sleeves help you create versatile outfits with simple clothing pieces.”

Asmitha Siddhiqu UG Fashion Communication L2

Aniketh PG Interactive Design L2

“I think I’m the most easy going person when it comes to putting my looks together. I wear whatever comforts me. Isn’t that the core function of clothing ?”

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Uprise of

V

fashion:

(irtual)

Keep up or be kept out Digital fashion, is the new wave in retail about how we produce, consume, and even perceive fashion, henceforth. By Deepika V J

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ith the emerging technology, people are willing to experiment with everything; right from the phone, they hold in their hands to the clothes they wear on their backs. The pandemic only enhanced this as everything went digital. The fashion industry followed suit y as there was a rise in digital clothing and artists. Digital fashion or virtual fashion are clothes that do not exist in real life. They are digitally tailoredmade from 3d software such as Clo 3D, Maya, Marvelous designer, etc. A prominent example that struck the audience with awe is the iridescent dress by Fabricant. It is inexpensive and sustainable for production while imagination can be limitless. Digital retailers like DressX, build virtual dresses into a functional business model. There is no denying that virtual fashion is much more affordable as well as functional than physical clothes. Social media influencers are preferring virtual clothes for their versatility, As you can buy and resell the clothing without worrying about damage or longevity of the same. Digital fashion has a significant rise in the Indian market. Many designers are entering the virtual arena with their unbound creativity and innovation. The introduction of Nfts and the metaverse concept has been the spark to flame this movement.

Here are some artists on the escape that are truly pushing the boundaries and reinventing what fashion will look like in the near future: -

Sankar and Sreedhar This creative sibling duo has been making waves on Instagram since 2019. They started as photographers and later ventured into VFX and now setting a strong foothold on digital fashion. They also collaborated with the renowned Indian actor, Neeraj Madhav for multiple musical ventures. “We are still developing our style, as we do have a style but are still working on making something much better. We use Blender for 3D and Marvelous Designer to do digital clothes. We are still in the process of learning 3D but yes we do freelance work. Even now if we get any doubts about 3D we just ask Artog and he clears our doubts. Mostly we work on music videos, so far we have worked with many artists and songwriters like actor Neeraj Madhav, and Gopi Sundar, and bands like Nomadic voice. We

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Ruse Fashion

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get our work mostly from social media, people would connect with us and ask if we are available to take the work, that’s the advantage that we get from being active on social media platforms like Instagram”

Archana Murali Starting off as a fashion and textile designer, Archana is one person who is a jack of all trades. She is a well-known NTF artist from Kerala, who is also a part of Utopia Dystopia, Kerala’s very own NFT fest. She is popularly known for her digital design which is later printed on fabric to create a unique clothing line. The list of her clientele sees the likes of celebrities and other designers too. “My specialization is textile designing and digital printing. Coming from a fashion textile background, the NFT space was new to me. During the pandemic, I started to share my digital designs on social media. People like Francis Kurian encouraged and introduced me to NFT and the platform Foundation. Psychedelics and Kerala murals mostly inspire my artwork because I am a person who does mural art in temples. I do a combination of both murals and cycles, I’m a huge fan of colors, so you can see in all my works that are actually on the platform. I use adobe Illustrator to create my designs”

Mukunthan A talented animation and graphic designer, now working at My Designation as a designer. His expertise largely reflects in mockups and designs for printing. One look at Mukunthan’s work and we realize how much potential digital fashion holds and wields. “ If I had to define myself in one word I would say I am a Designer. I did my animation and graphic designing, after which I started to have a keen interest in NFTs blockchain etc, due to which I started to create tokens and collectibles. After starting my job at My Designation, I felt like digital art and fashion is my strongest space. I started to create crazy designs using Photoshop, Illustrator,

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and Figma for sweatshirts, hoodies, T-shirts, etc. Don’t know why it is so satisfying to see the designs you created worn by other people.”

Sreekumar O R Sreekumar, popularly known as Artog, is a cherished 3D artist. He was one of the first few trailblazers in the Indian NFT space. Artog also stands tall as a mentor and guide for the sibling duo Sankar and Sreedhar, mentioned earlier. “ Initially I wanted to become an animator but I knew it was just a path to my true passion in 3D. Mostly I make 3d collectibles for NFTs, and digital fashion something I recently came across. I use the blender and marvelous designers to create most of my art, skins, and armor.”

Sunith T.S A beginner in the digital fashion industry, he is a 3D and VFX artist and ex-Byju employee who has worked in films Vashi, Thallumala, etc on a freelance basis. “ I have been freelance for in films for the past 2 years, mostly Artog and I work together on projects. Due to the rise of metaverse concepts, I also started doing digital fashion as it is the upcoming trend. I use marvelous designers to create my designs. “

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Dinesh V S Popular for his 3D digital art, Dinesh is one person who just cannot get enough of the digital world. He has worked in many movies, as well as with wellknown eCommerce brands as a digital fashion artist. His work proudly hangs on the shelves of brands like Amazon and Gap inc. “ Coming from an engineering background, my love for VFX turned my life around. I was a VFX and 3d artist for movies like Ghost rider: the spirit of vengeance, Kochadaiyaan, etc. Since 2015, I have been the redesign and 3d designer for Amazon and now I’m heading the digital fashion team at Gap inc. mostly I use Clo 3d to create the designs, and images you see on the site and app created by my team.”

These were some of the known as well as lesser-known artists who are blazing a trail in the Indian virtual fashion arena. There is no denying that countless artists and enthusiasts enter the digital fashion industry, however very few catch hold of the fastpaced revolution. With digital fashion zooming forward at such a speed, it is only fair that we keep up and look cool or get left behind and add to the fashion’s carbon footprint. Irrespective of what course we choose, digital/virtual fashion is undeniably the new norm in the near future.

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Folk To F lo or A cultural word about the fashion ins-outs and how much of an influence the global territories have on what we put on our backs. By Deepika V J

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ashion and culture go hand in hand as they influence each other in ways beyond what meets the eye. The emergence of the internet has only magnified this. Tradition and culture play a paramount part in the clothes we wear. Inevitably, Fashion is a form of expression. Our clothes are a form of non-verbal communication that sends a message or represents who we are, where we are coming from, and what we believe in. Due to globalization now it is easy to make a trend or style inspired by traditional clothing. Hence, knowing what the culture represents and where it is coming from is important. Breaking down these influences here, one continent at a time.

India From science to yoga, India has also played a significant role in the ever-immersive world of fashion. As a diverse country in both culture and tradition, the sheer amount of influence on the fashion industry can't be denied. Though it was the first functioning civilization, due to the influence of invaders like the Moguls and the British, Indian fashion has hints of western as well as Arabic culture. There are so many contributions the country has given Europe and the West in general like Indigo dying etc. Indian traditional techniques of embroidery like Crewel, Chikan, and Zardosi have become global and have been at the forefront of

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international fashion runways. The popularity of individually unique blends of silk and cotton sarees like Benarasi, Kanjivaram, Mysore silk, etc are the greatest example of this ascendancy. Each state of the country has its own distinct clothes and manner of dressing which makes the country culturally rich and unique.

Korean After the massive rise in the popularity of Korean media content like K-pop, K-drama, and movies, people all over the world are taking fashion cues from the Koreans. Like any other South Asian country, South Korean fashion is also rooted in tradition and the sanctity of its costumes. With them being a victim of colonization like many others, Korean fashion has a fine blend of western as well as Japanese culture. However, the core beliefs and traditions still remain indomitable. Their traditional hanbok is still popular as well as inspired designers to come up with a modern spin on the garment. The 1990s saw the emergence of K-pop, hip-hop, and rap culture too. Very few people could have predicted this change in the cultural fashion forefront. Bands like BTS, EXO, Big bang, Black pink, etc are the big players that made the Hallyu trend popular across the world. Another interesting, as well as, paramount factor that makes Korean fashion so appealing to the masses is its gender neutrality. Hence Korean fashion easily is a unique blend of past traditions while also looking forward to the promising future.

Native American Native American culture is a much-adored one that is deeply rooted in nature. Historically, clothes used by them were created from the elements of nature which were abundantly available. They used animal skin and fur for making the preliminary clothes. The use of decorative accessories, feathers, and leather made them unique and stand apart from their global counterparts. A fascinating factor about their fashion is, how their style is a

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homage to their love towards mother nature more than anything else. Indigenous fashion has been making waves on the runways too. Natural vibrant textures made from grass and thread, leather, fur, and feather as the canvases have seen some light. Also includes stripped, dried, and shredded bark clothing like skirts, aprons, shirts, hats, capes, and belts which are weaved soft for comfortable clothing. Wool also plays a major role as it is used to make leggings and skirts.

African Africa is currently thriving due to its multiple culturally-rich tribal facets. Due to the warm climate, most tribals do not use many clothes. The fabric used to drape is mostly animal skin. African colors and fabrics are unique and distinguishable. Most tribes take pride in their handmade cloth using techniques such as printing, dyeing, etc. Styles like Yoruba, the narrow strips, Buganda, the backcloth, Bambara, mud cloths, etc constituted a large part of their wardrobe. Kitenge, the cloth that has been used for the longest is famous across the country It is even the part of Liberian flag as well as significant for political leaders for National

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Commemoration Day. With the vibrant and colorful prints, their fashion made waves on both the commercialized runway and the streets. Ankara the vibrant material with rich, colorful patterns can be seen from cultural, to political to marital functions. Madiba and Dashiki shirts are a staple for both formal and informal functions because of their fit and form. Many designers have incorporated hints of African patterns onto their modern runway looks only to drive the point home that fashion knows no borders.

Turkey Turkey is the leading fashion manufacturing hub of the world. Their fashion itself is a mix of different cultures influenced by both Greco-Roman and an Islamic spin along with Western and Asian ones. Primarily having its roots in Ottoman Islamic culture commonly known as Turk culture, the Turkey fashion roots are widespread. . From delicate embroidery on jackets classed Yelek to Bashlyks, a type of hat used by rich people to velvet, metallic silk, and cotton were used in the Ottoman era. Turkey’s geography also parts in diverse branches as half of it is in Asia and the other half in Europe. Although it’s an Islamic nation, fashion is something modern and westernized with a nod to traditional clothing. Nomadic and Armenian culture are some popular tribes that used lots of prints and colors in their clothing. Konya - a warp-faced handmade weaving, pile carpet- consisting of one line pile knot, is one of the most popular form of rugs that are exposed all across the world.

After a thorough virtual tour around the world through this article, we come to realize that each corner of our planet has so much diversity and uniqueness to it. While some hold nature to be an integral part of their style, others to craftmanship. Regardless of their shape, size, and forms, fashion has now descended the borders and the world is now a beautiful fashionable melting pot.

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Meta

Brands Would you buy a purse that you can never carry in the real world? Will you strut a pair of virtual pants? Is Metaverse the next chapter of fashion? If yes! how is it aiding to turn a new page in the industry? By Deepika V J

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fter the pandemic hit us in 2020, everything became digitalized and people started to use the internet as a primary source, right from shopping to buying cheese. As a response to this, brands began to enter the virtual world making the current digital landscape more extensive and much more promising. Now people are more interested in buying from eCommerce sites rather than going to a physical store. Even major fashion shows and events are happening virtually. Now, we have virtual AI-generated influencers like Miquela and Shudu promoting luxury brands on their platforms. They not only look extremely realistic but also have a strong following hanging onto their every word. Metaverse is a virtual universe that is similar to our world. We can create our own space or even buy a plot of land here. We have all crossed paths with some sort of augmented reality, whether it’s gaming or virtual simulations. A version of the metaverse can be experienced in games like Fortnite, Axie Infinity, etc. In the fashion industry, it exists as a form of digital or virtual fashion. Metaverse brings along new opportunities for artists, developers, and designers to be their creative best. It is a vast platform to test new ideas and collaborate on big projects to build something entirely different from what we are used to seeing. The internet and social media help the fashion industry to rise and virtual space is the next giant leap in evolution. It is estimated that the market for virtual fashion goods will be worth $60 billion by 2030. Luxury labels such as Gucci, Balenciaga, and Burberry are already establishing dominance in the virtual platforms and truly embracing the Metaverse for all that it is, and more!

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Gucci Gucci Garden is a virtual pop-up in the game Roblox and they have already sold millions worth of merchandise on it. On March 23 2022 the label also announced their Ethereum blockchain NFT, Gucci Grail. They also designed virtual sneakers in software like Roblox and VRChat to really entice their audience. The brand also owns a digital plot called The Sandbox in the metaverse, where customers can have a virtual and interactive shopping experience. Talk about taking shopping to a whole other tier!

Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Hilfiger made a grand entry into the metaverse space by partnering with the virtual marketing platform EWG to venture into V commerce. Continuing this they were a part of the first-ever Decentraland Metaverse fashion week which happened in March 2022. They also collaborated with Roblox for the NYFW metaverse edition.

Burberry This brand explored the zone of NFTs through their string of playable NFTs called Sharky B for the next-gen gaming platform, Mythical Games. It includes accessories like armbands, jet packs, and oh-sostylish pool shoes. They also collaborated with Minecraft and created a virtual bag collection on the Roblox metaverse.

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Balenciaga Balenciaga collaborated with the crossplatform game, Fortnite to create virtual clothes and 'skins' that players can buy with V(irtual) bucks, the game's currency. The label also has an exclusive mascot on the game called Shady Doggo who is equal parts cool and equal halves stylish.

Dolce and Gabbana Dolce and Gabbana sold their nine-piece collection called the Genesee collection on UNXD, a digital marketplace not only that they used metaverse as their inspiration for the Milan fashion week collection with the Griffie prints, pixelated styles etc.

Lacoste Lacoste collaborated with Minecraft by creating skins for the characters of the game. They recently launched an online experience platform called UNDW3, for which NFT grants access to digital and reallife products. Also in this platform, unique avatars for the members of the platform can be created in their Discord.

Louis Vuitton In honor of its 200th anniversary, Louis Vuitton launched a mobile game called Louis the game which shows.

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Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren deducted their genderneutral digital collection as well as has a store in the gaming platform Roblox. They also redesigned their iconic polo player logo in collaboration with the epic game Fortnite.

Nike Nike entered the virtual space by acquiring the digital sneakers brand RTKFT, which is well-known in the sneakerhead community. By doing this Nike has a great advantage in the futurist virtual sneakers market.

Cruising through this list, you can figure that fashion is one of the most popular artwork categories in the NFT space. Other alternate brands that sell digital/virtual clothes are Carlins, The B, Fabricant, Hanifa, Moschino, Tribute Brand, and Dress X. Having said that, the metaverse will change the way we interact with others online. Individuals will be able to customize their virtual avatars and engage with other people in VR or Augmented realities in the metaverse. Haptic suits and gloves will be largely sought after, as well. These suits will allow users to interact with the virtual/3D objects around them. How fascinating is that! Virtual fashion shows and stores are also growing in popularity. The greatest advantage of virtual fashion is that it is convenient to manage and accessible from all across the globe without the fear of catching a virus. We can also own the items we buy forever and will earn royalties if we ever choose to sell them.

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AMALGAM The amalgamation of cultures, values, and ethnicities constitutes the world we live in today. Does taking a step forward toward the future means walking away from the past? By Megha Mahajan The rich heritage of India, one of the world’s oldest civilizations, is an all-embracing ‘Sangam’’ of religions, traditions, and faiths. The highlights of Indian heritage lie in the treasure of its art, architecture, classical dance, music, flora and fauna, and the secular philosophy of its people. The culture of India forms from beliefs and ideals and translates into traditions, attires, and even philosophies. Our culture shapes the way we work and play, and it makes a difference in how we view the world. . Today, we live in a world where we are constantly torn between moving forward towards an all embracing and bustling future, but also with a blend of cultures it becomes hard for one to stay true to the roots. Globalization has enabled converting the world into one giant global village. The world as we know today changed its shape when technology started booming. To reside in a world where modern technology, culture, traditions and values co-exist, one begins to wonder if they have to look forward or hold back tight. Cultural preservation then comes into play as it is not only important to preserve our cultural heritage, but also the wealth of knowledge and skills that is transpired through it from one generation to the next. To let go of culture is to lose one’s identity. . Technology helps shape and alter future generations and over time has become a huge and indispensable part in society and day-to-day life. There are both positive as well as negative impacts of technology and this is undebatable. As technological systems are invented by humans and reflect the very essence of a population’s needs and culture, human societies/civilizations and their technology have become inseparable from one another. The question remains as to how much change can a society take until it is not itself? We can’t help but wonder which one to choose, and if one should take precedence over the other? While they both have their own share of importance in one’s life, should one make a choice compromising on the other? Can there be a balance between the two where the scale is adjusted as and when needed? In the contemporary world where everything is a blend of histories and geographies, we imagined a cyborg queen embracing her Indian roots. This conceptual embodiment serves to explain that though there is one foot in tech and advancement, the other foot can remain deep-rooted in heritage as the heart belongs to both.

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Photography, concept & styling

Megha Mahajan Talent & makeup Naaga Nandha Praba

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How Barbie is a timeless fashion and feminist icon who will never go out of style By Deepika V J

Like all the young kids from my generation and before, who were obsessed with Barbie, the color pink, and every other thing that was popular at that time. Even though kids these days have easy access to everything they will never understand the pride in owning a Barbie and her dream house. It was not just a doll, she was an inspiration and motivating young minds to dream big. As a kid, playing with Barbie or watching her movies was like seeing myself as capable of doing anything. Although as an adult I am mostly over the Barbie era, still it will always be a part of me. I still remember my first Barbie, it was a limited dream bedroom edition with strawberry-scented clay, I fell in love with it the very first time I saw it on the shelf, and cried and begged my parents to buy it for me. The fascinating history behind the iconic Barbie is both wonderful and empowering. Mattel toy company was founded by Ruth and Eliot Handler in 1945, for her daughter who used to play with paper dolls, which made her realize there was a gap in the market for fashionable female dolls. Barbie was always following the trend of that decade. Since her introduction, she represented fashion and made In recent years there has been a resurgence of early 90s and 2000's trends, an important part of which is Barbie's ascetics p she has never gone out of style. Personally, I am a huge fan of the nostalgic things that connect me back to my childhood self. Having said that, the Re-emergence of the barbiecore in a woke scenario is refreshing and gives new hope. It is not just a past trend, but is an act of empowerment and reclaiming feminine energy. She was and still remains an icon because of her diverse and strong career throughout the years. The pandemic and social media played a major part in turning the Barbiecore trend into a Genz phenomenon. Barbiecore fashion is a trend where all elements from the world of Barbie take the center stage. Monochrome with fun girl chic styles with mini dresses, giant platforms, etc

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Barbie was always associated with a stereotype called a blonde bimbo. But the dame blonde who needed a man to save her. her a strong independent feminine beauty feminist moment happened when she ended on-again-off-again boyfriend, Ken, in the early is a strong independent capable woman who shining armor to save her. Even in the movie, she who had to fight against all the challenges that Even Though her ex-love interest Ken was popular the sidekick.

feminine culture, particularly with truth is Barbie was never a The creator themself made with a brain. The strongest her relationship with her 2000s, proving that she doesn't need a knight in was the main character came in front of her. he has always been

Through the years she had many careers proving trades. From a doctor to an astronaut to a teacher almost all jobs available to stay independent. stereotypical doll due to her color, body shape, criticism she has different versions to promote Barbie has around 175 different looks including Indian barbies which were introduced to included and motivated.

she is a Jack of all to a dancer she has done She was considered a and hair, because of this inclusivity and diversity. Latina, black, Asian, and make young diverse girls feel

The color most associated with Barbie comeback on the runways. Valentino’s fashion industry - bright pink dresses feminine powerful statement in character, there is an upcoming as Barbie herself directed by Gerwig, which might be character. For me, Barbie who is proud millions of t h e y it’s a

is pink which has made a huge pink color is making a Storm in the and platforms are something of a themselves. Due to the popularity of the Barbie movie starring Margo Robbie the feminist newage director Greta an indication of a new take on the is a strong independent woman to show her femininity. Like me, kids may have felt the same when played with her. More than nostalgia feeling of pride in reclaiming my feminine side. There will be so many kids like me, who would have felt empowered and strong. For so many, Barbie is not just a toy, she is an icon and a statement.

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MY WAY IS THE

H I G H WAY

‘Clothes are not frippery. Properly done, they can be an art form’, said the 101 year old fashion icon, Iris Apfel. Filled with wealth of style and experience, shehas marked history by being a fashion muse for generations now. Find out how… By Megha Mahajan

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n American businesswoman and interior designer, Iris Apfel is one of the most vivacious personalities in the worlds of fashion and textiles. You can be sure that when she walks into a room, you will look. Her fashion is colorful, vibrant, and although peculiar to some and screams her love for youth. Apfel has described herself as “the world’s oldest living teenager.” Always decked in oversized glasses, a mop of silver hair, neck stacked with anything that will make you glance twice , and each finger covered in an assemblage of rings. One glance at her and you know this is someone who loves variety in life. As an interior designer, Apfel has taken part in several design projects, including work at the White House for nine presidents. In the fashion atmosphere, Apfel has partnered with designers like Simone Rocha, Balmain, the late Karl Lagerfeld and even Indian designer and couturier Sabyasachi. The latest Iris Apfel X H&M collaboration titled ‘Bird’ will bring Apfel’s iconic jewelry plus fashion to millions around the world. Things changed for Apfel in 2005 when The Met’s Costume Institute decided to make her the centerpiece of an exhibition titled Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Apfel Collection. Her jewelry, fantastical clothes, and signature tortoise shell glasses were featured on this show. The museum believed that her personal style is both witty and exuberantly idiosyncratic. The Met led to marking her name across the globe besides her roots, New York. A decade later in 2015, a documentary that showcased her life and fashion sensibilities elevated her stardom. Mattel, a toy manufacturing company in 2018, in her honor released a barbie doll version of her. Not just that, she has appeared in multiple advertisements and branding campaigns over the last few years. Last year, before her 100th birthday, she released The Iris Apfel Zentennial Collection with Zenni Optical. This optical collection is very close to her heart and abides her accessory philosophy.

Born in 1921 at Queens, Iris was the only child to her parents. Shopping at the age of 12 at local antique stores led to the beginning of her intimate collection of jewelry. “And I really lusted after that piece. We haggled a little bit over the piece. I thought it had been gone, but fortunately for me it was still there. Anyway, I bought it for the magnificent sum of 65 cents. He gave it to me. I was so thrilled, my God ”, said Apfel about her first purchase of a brooch. She worked as a copy editor in the Women’s Wear Daily after studying art history at New York University. She then met her husband Carl in the forties and together they voyaged the world to pick up unique textiles, wonderful clothes, and one-of-a-kind home furnishings. The couple spent almost 70 years together, during which time they created their own textile company Old World Weavers. A bible of fashion can be written with everything she quotes and lives-by. Her goal is never to look pretty but rather to enjoy what she sees when she looks at the mirror. A believer of more is more and less is a bore, this fashion Demi-God has

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braced the most exquisite and extravagant pieces on almost every occasion. Her personal style has not only set her apart from people her age, but people of all ages can learn a thing or two from her. Always breaking the rules, she advocates for continuous experimentation of style. “Life is gray and dull; you might as well have a little fun when you dress” says the industry’s oldest tastemakers. Forever lively 101 year old Apfel, has inspired ordinary folks to high end designers with her flair for style and overstatement. According to the master herself, there are six accessories that make a look: A chunky statement necklace, a bold bangle bracelet, a flashy pin, a large rock, hoop earrings, and a clutch. Keeping up with Apfel’s iconic fashion moments is a task as her everyday looks scream creative curation of extravagance. She has proved style is ageless and regardless to say she has marked her permanent fixture as an icon in fashion.

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Party Pop-Up Streetwear brands have taken up the fashion atmosphere all across the globe, including India. Their creative and funky ways to penetrate and create their niche community has led them to hosting parties too. By Megha Mahajan

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lmost Gods, a Delhi based alternative streetwear brand hosted a pop-up party on the 1st and 2nd of October in Bengaluru. In collaboration with Capsul, AG displayed their edgy merchandise and had a lot of fashion forward clients walk-in. We went over the collection and had a talk with the designer Dhruv whilst having a wholesome shopping experience. The pop-up was not only just a buy or interact space, but to our surprise it was also a techno party. Disco Very curated the music and it was performed by local artists including Rishi Sippy and Aaguu. There was a crowd of street artists, skateboarders, sneakerheads, streetwear brand owners as well as the AG cult. The pop up experience also included interactive moderated discussions with fashion experts - Bhavisha and Meenakshi from Capsul and Dhruv from AG. A very insightful talk on where the future of fashion is leading took place the following noon. “We’ve also always gravitated towards grand artistic statements at AG. Whether they come from historical context, like in the case of the ‘Garden of Earthly Desires’ collection, or our own artistic endeavors with collections like the ‘Fruit Shop at the End of the World’. It’s especially exciting when you discover

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art where it’s normally dismissed. It’s provocative and stimulating”, said Dhruv Khurana, the designer and proprietor of AG. In these chaotic times, people have started seeking consolation through artistic clothing. Fashion allows everyone to be an artist, and the world to become a vast and extensive gallery. In fact, fashion is considered by some to be the ultimate source of artistic and creative expression. Everything about ALMOST GODS is concentrated on art and applying it to daily notions in order to transform commodities into items of desire, from their name to their collections to their story-telling. Story-telling and power being the key elements to their collection, the pop-up in itself seemed like a Godly experience. Their vibrant pieces all aligned together screamed supremacy. The narrative and visual imagery of each piece made it a very sagely curated artform. The pieces do not propose ideas but rather recognize components existing from the history and fragments of human understanding. The T-shirts were rather eclectic and few of their unreleased pieces were launched in the Bengaluru Pop-up. Almost Gods have been the frontrunners of the streetwear fashion game since 2018. The New Delhi-based independent fashion label, gained a lot of attention for its red, oversized draping hoodie. They have successfully managed to create a cult following for their pieces. The brand represents ‘power’ as it is clear with their name, therefore the clothing pieces have graphics that inject power and vibrancy to the consumers personality. The label’s philosophy includes closely assessing sustainability and upcycling as an act of power. On the account of sustainability, the brand’s current line - Resurrected, makes up about 35% of their collection. The art representation of the brand and the strong identity the clothing builds along with the future prospects, makes the brand a streetwear celestial.

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What to do when you are at

creative dead end? You are a creative person however under pressure, you feel like your mind is blank and are unable to come up with ideas. By Deepika V J

Many times we all feel like we are out of ideas and even after trying our mind feels blank. This is called creative block, in writers' terms a writer's block. This is frustrating at times leading to feeling insufficient at the workspace or campus. This may be caused by stress or lack of inspiration. It can also be a result of overworking and burnout. Creative block is a common phenomenon in any creative field so, you don’t have to feel bad about it.

Here are some ways to break this curse : Free writing This exercise is mainly helpful for writers. Free writing is just writing whatever comes to your mind, from small thoughts like I'm hungry to serious discussion material like history. This can help in collecting your thoughts. Maybe one of these thoughts could lead to finding inspiration to come up with an innovative piece.

Look in unlikely places Watching a bird chirping or observing a construction site that you have never actually given attention to. Take to random people who actually might have surprising insight on things you least expect. This will help you get a fresh perspective on people and the idea.

Go against the flow As small as changing a regular habit can make a big difference. For example, if you are a right-hander, you can use your left hand to brush your teeth, which will make the nondominant side of the brain work and indeed will help in your creativity. Change in normal habits or practices can make a great difference in your personal and professional life as this will help in changing the way you think.

Give yourself a challenge Try to challenge yourself by giving tasks and exercises that will force you to come up with new and innovative ideas. Learning a new language or a new art style can actually make you think and go outside your comfort zone and come up with an innovative idea.

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Ruse H&B Grab some time Giving yourself a break can do wonders. Take a bath, meditate, go out for a walk or do anything that makes you feel free and connects back to yourself. Make sure you are not using your phone, laptop, etc this time as it is to connect to yourself, not others. Pamper yourself with self-care or with a good and healthy meal.

Do some physical activity Dancing or doing exercises can make the blood flow more in the body which indeed could change the state of mind making you think more creatively. Staying proactive can help in staying healthy and productive.

Be adventurous Trekking or adventurous sports will help you stay closer to nature. Connecting with mother earth will help you see and experience new and exciting things that will help in cleansing your mind as well as the body from the toxicity around giving you a clear mind.

Make a routine Making a to-do list or staying on a schedule can improve your time management and keeps you track of time and find where you can improve or add a mind twister or something that could improve your brain function. Planning the whole day or a week can make you productive and proactive.

Free scribbling This is like going back in time to your childhood. As kids, We all have scribbled something on the paper or surely on the walls. This exercise is the same but this is actually beneficial for the brain as it improves productivity, and maybe while scribbling we might get an idea of what we can draw. So just take a piece of paper and a pen then start drawing.

Watching something inspiring You might get inspiration from anything around you. Many people get inspired by shows or movies they see others from art. It might be different for everyone but in the end, this will help you grow and create something new. However, be careful and make sure you are not replicating. These are just a few ways you can work through your creative block however each individual can develop their own process to stay creative and productive. The process is the hero here, then only the idea can be generated from it, so the way you reach the goal must be effective and strong. Try to stay proactive so that creativity in you can flow.

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Creativity to

RECOVERY

If there is one emotion that art evokes, it has to be ‘fulfillment’. Creativity and recovery have now tied knots with each other with regard to mental health. By Megha & Deepika

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rt is an experience created through the expression of imagination and creativity. It is believed that art has existed for as long as mankind has. existed. The energy of art is known to stimulate ideas, emotions, beliefs, and thoughts. The term Art encompasses diverse mediums such as painting, sculpture, printmaking, drawing, decorative arts, photography, and even installations. Art has been proven scientifically as a method to enhance mental health. Practicing it reduces stress, anxiety and the risk of other mental disorders. Being the non-verbal process that art is, it is used to express oneself regardless of age, gender and background. Doctors noted that individuals with mental illness often expressed themselves through drawings and other artworks, which led many to explore the use of art as a healing strategy. “Art therapy encourages individuals to express and understand emotions, resolve issues and improve one’s sense of self. . To express oneself artistically can aid in the healing process by surfacing meaning. Through art there is an opportunity to connect with the unconscious which can foster increased self-awareness. Through this connection lived experience can be explored, including both positive and negative effects enabling the opportunity for healing on a whole.” said Laurie Ponsford-Hill in her book The Art of Self-Supervision. This book studies the link between self-reflection and self-care through the medium of art.

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Art therapy is a technique rooted in the idea that creative expression can stimulate healing and mental well-being. It aims to support people through emotional and psychological difficulties including psychological distress to emotional dysregulation, recovery from grief, PTSD, dementia and addiction. While art classes teach technique, art therapy is more about letting people focus on their inner experience. Not just restricted to drawing, this therapy also includes scribbles, colors, shapes, collages, clays, sewing, photography etc. In this process people can harness the creative power of Art and by making it, they create a very personal healing experience curated for their betterment. The aim of Art Therapy is to ultimately understand oneself by learning one’s own past, present and future to gain personal insight and develop a sense of wholesomeness.

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How to deal with a copycat? Have you ever been complimented for your fashion sense? Has your style ever been mimicked? Or are you a person who takes fashion inspiration? By Deepika V J

Fashion is not about what clothes you wear but how you carry or style them. You can model the same pair of clothes in several different ways. Taking inspiration from someone is a good thing, but remember that you have to stay authentic to your sense of style. It's normal for all of us to like or take inspiration from other people, especially their fashion sense. Even if someone else's style influences it know that being unique is more attractive than being a follower. Whatever the style is, you can contribute something innovative by yourself and should never completely duplicate or copy the look and feel of the original. In this age of social media, we can see many creators who solely focus their whole career on replicating the looks of celebrities, however, are these influencers truly fashionable? The answer is a clear NO. Why? The reason is that it just duplicates someone else's looks rather than adding something new to it bonafide. There is a saying that “Imitation is the greatest form of flattery” but it's just partially true. The person who is being imitated might feel great, but as time goes by it will turn to frustration as they are being replicated all the time. Through this, that person is disrespecting their inspiration. If you look at Genz fashion, it's all taken influenced by past trends like Y2k, grunge, pop, etc. how they incorporate these trends into their style, determines what their personality is. The best example is Korean fashion’s leverage all over the world. It has become a goto casual look for most of our generation. Some people take parts of it, remix the recipe and incorporate their elements to give a finishing touch to the overall look. On the other hand, some people take an image from Pinterest and just replicate it to the smallest detail and project themselves to be fashion icons. Is this fair? How do you feel when people copy you and take pride in that?

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What if we showed you 5 routes you could take to establish your sense of style and ward off the copycats?!

Make your style exclusive Creating a style according to your personality and body type instantly makes it stand out. Making your own design, and stitching/knitting your own clothes can put you in a position where no one can replicate your style.

Rewear, restyle, and reuse (styling) There are many ways the same clothes can be styled, so that look will stay unique yet you don't have to own lots of pairs. This is the easiest way to stay creative as not so many people can think like that.

Unique fashion Owning unique and hard-to-find pieces will instantly give you an up hand. Styling those particular pieces of jewelry or clothing can make people aspire to be like you.

It's a compliment Not to take offense, but if someone is taking fashion cues from you, that means you have something which is unique.

Cash in on it So many people tend to turn this situation into a successful business/career. Styling, fashion designing, fashion influence/guru, etc are some of the career options. It is important to keep in mind that creating a style of your own makes you stand out in a crowd rather than following something which is already exciting. We have to be appreciative and give credit to the people from whom we take inspiration and should let them know their styles are something creative and influential. The people who have their style, don't need to be insecure about the copycats because only you replicate or take it forward as you created it. Whatever you wear should reflect even if it is inspired, so be you, create something unique like yourself.

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Retro Eye The comeback of 60’s eye makeup trends through Genz shows. By Deepika V J

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t is no coincidence that Mandy from Euphoria's eye makeup and Y2K styles are becoming huge trends in Genz fashion. All of these started in the 1960s, with twiggy eyes, and heavy eyeliner. Contoured eye with a bright eyeshadow to create a hooded and rounded effect. Since then, with each passing decade, a new element has been added to it like glitter, beads, gems, etc. Maddy’s sharp winged eyeliners, hooded eyes with rhinestones, and pearls all have an iconic status. Her looks have inspired other shows like Al Rawabi school for girls, Heartbreak high reboot, etc to show feminine confidence. The hooded eye is a part of the minimal-maximalist trend of 2022. Nude makeup with retro eye makeup like hooded eye, and winged liners has become the go-to for the minimal casual look to give it a bold spin. In India, winged eyes have been here since the 60s, and Bollywood actresses like Madhubala, and Hema Malini all rocked a pair of winged eyes. The hooded eye look was commonly used for weddings or any grand celebration, but now it has become a part of casual looks - like going out with friends, college, or a date. Tips to pull this look off: keep the overall look simple from nude/ no face makeup to simple clothing and accessories, so that the full focus goes to the eye.

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Photography - Deepika Model -Abhirami Make up - Anisha

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WHO IS SHE She wakes up early, exercises, keeps her room clean and drinks a lot of green smoothies. She radiates the main character energy. Take your cue to be ‘that girl’ as we study her. By Megha Mahajan

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he Internet popularized the trend of ‘that girl’, a character who focuses on enriching life with self care and self betterment. A Pinterest board is what her life looks and feels like. She is an embodiment of wellness and fulfillment. This aspirational girl’s oh-so-perfect lifestyle involves regimented routines that encourage healthy eating, beauty rituals, fitness, organization, productivity in work and study, as well as mental healthcare. ? Becoming one’s best self in terms of mind and body leads to inner peace and stability. The confidence and kindness that comes from the harmony within, is empowering. In the light of the hasty and competitive landscape we live in today, it has become the need of the hour to reflect on the needs of oneself and value them. Didn’t we all at some point made resolutions to be ‘that girl’ ? We tried waking up early, working out with a yoga mat facing the sun and drinking God-awful tasting kale smoothies with lots of water; only to see it all drain. While it screams a lot of effort, it has to be fathomed that it helps level up life and is so much more than just an internet obsession. The core reason for a plant-based breakfast, journaling thoughts, chanting affirmations and gulping down green juices is to bring out and embrace the best and most productive version of yourself.

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To start your journey of becoming ‘that girl’, you have to begin with making healthy choices that will be incorporated in your daily routine. While it can be a little too challenging to completely alter one’s lifestyle, the idea is to make little changes that bring in a substantial switch.

THAT GIRL DOESN’T LIVE IN A MESSY ROOM

She keeps her clothes folded, bed tidy, stationery organized by type on her desk beside a beautiful vase and her candles. She doesn’t have to look for her comb in a clutter. Living in a disorganized environment only leads to stress and generates negative energy. The power of organization helps you get your priorities right, plan your goals and establish a routine.

THAT GIRL CHOOSES A HEALTHY SNACK

Munching on dry fruits instead of deep fried chips is a choice she makes. Eating healthy doesn’t always mean salads and bland foods. Hummus jars, overnight almond oats, chia puddings, egg -banana pancakes and roasted chickpeas are a few mouthwatering delicious snacks to treat yourself with; also they are rich in proteins, vitamins and antioxidants. However it’s okay to have everything in moderation, even your favorite junk food options. Just make sure 80% of your diet is nutrients-enriched.

THAT GIRL MOVES HER BODY

Exercise doesn’t have to be a task. Any type of movement doesn’t matter, the goal is to enjoy whichever way you move. Be it dance, yoga, pilates, cycling, jogging or even just a walk with your dog in the evening. Not only does exercising keep you active and fit, it releases endorphins, the happy hormones. Find what exercise works for you and the benefits are endless. It is important to understand, rest is also a form of exercise.

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THAT GIRL PAMPERS HER SKIN

Often said that internal beauty reflects on the outside and therefore it is encouraged to live and think healthy. However it is vital to understand the outer beauty also impacts how you feel internally. Taking a hot shower, exfoliating, applying a body lotion and cleaning your nails can make you feel fresh and good, externally as well as internally. Your skin needs that pampering so never shy away from adding one extra step to your existing skincare routine.

THAT GIRL LIKES HAVING FUN

She plans her day out, goes for a jog in her favorite tracksuit, finds time to meditate and journal her thoughts and eats a balanced healthy diet. Throughout her productivity, she does not forget to have fun. These activities do not and should not seem like a burden. If anything, the purpose is to find balance in what is good and keeps you happy. Determine your goals, respect your boundaries and align fun in what makes you the best version of yourself. Take up activities that you enjoy and that keep you creative. Many people find art therapeutic, a way to clear their mind of worries that they may have. If journaling your thoughts is not your thing, you can doodle or sketch or paint them away. Just a few things that she does impacts the quality of her life in innumerous ways. Instead of striving for perfection, learning and mastering the balance of joy, love and productivity is empowering. The ultimate goal of oneself is to attain betterment and lead an authentic life. This lifestyle has the potential to get you where you want. So girls tie your ponytail and start with little steps now and today.

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Desi ‘Hallyu’ Korean street fashion and its influence in the Genz conversation

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By Deepika V J

orea has a rich history that spanned centuries from the Joseon era, when Hanbok, the traditional attire, started to get popularized to Japanese influence due to the invasion and westernization. Through the years their fashions have taken influence and evolved into something of iconic status. It would be an understatement to say Korean culture is influencing the entire world. From the achievements of their movie in the global space to K-pop bands like BTS, Blackpink, Seventeen, etc., K-dramas such as business proposals, it’s okay to be not ok making waves in the fashion and entertainment sphere. The major pro which people are attracted to their fashion is because it is Gender Neutral. Men also are taking care of their skin and hair, making them vital consumers of the well-established Korean Beauty industry. The fashion itself mostly consists of neutral, pastels, and mute colors, occasionally using pop and bright colors. Seoul street style is one of the most popular as well as followed trends in Genz fashion. Genderfluid, fashionable, baggy, and comfortable are all the points that the youth today are looking for. Although Korean movies, pop music, and dramas have been popular in India, on a small scale this all changed during the pandemic, as the traction went off the charts. Indian artists started to collaborate with K-pop stars like Twice x Arman Malik ft Allu Arjun for coke studio. Ashwin Bhaskar x AleXa for her cover song also made waves. Also, there are people of Indian origin Sriya Lenka, a member of the k-pop band Blackswan became the first India k-pop idol in 2022. K-pop had a major impact on the fashion and aesthetics of street styles and casual, equally. People are now incorporating accessories and clothing items from k-street fashion. Bands such as BTS and Black pink are the main players and their fan base is through the roof. The style they put forth is bold and cute at the same time, which makes the fans aspirational to be charming and youthful like them. India has one of the largest fan bases of these two bands and is incorporating k-street and K-pop fashion religiously. Accessories such as goth-inspired belts, fish nets, platform heels, etc are the most popular ones. Cute and charming is the goto style. A fun fact is that Millions of Koreans can trace back their origin to India as the wife of King Kim Suro of Geumgwan Gaya, Heo Hwang-ok, is a princess with staunch Indian roots.

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Photography - Deepika Model - Saurabh

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Sustainability real or just a hoaX

Do you care about the planet? Do you support environmentally friendly products? Are you a fan of sustainable fashion? or have you all been fooled by the biggest hoax of the century? By Deepika V J

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ustainability is a word we often hear being used everywhere, from media and science to fashion. In the current world scenario, with climate change looming on us, it’s only sane to go all-natural. Right? At least that’s what we think is the right step to take. If you think yes, then you are still scratching the surface of a significant ruse. Fashion is the second biggest exploiter in the environmental pollution category. Did you know it takes 2,248 liters of water to make one single t-shirt? That is the amount of water a person drinks in 2 and a half years in their lifetime. The fashion industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water every year to produce cotton and for dying various merchandise. Not only are they abusing the resources but they go on to release this contaminated water back into the ocean, playing a major role as an unethical authority. Now, the real question stands to be, is fashion sustainable? Lots of the fast fashion brands like H&M, Zara, Fashion nova, etc. claim that they are environmentally conscious. H&M asserts that they will be 100% sustainable by 2030 however, is it an achievable goal? Let’s introduce you to the term Green Washing. Most brands promote their label as environmentally friendly, however, the truth behind it is much more twisted. They make false claims like 100% recycled materials and organic, instead the same products might have hidden toxic ingredients which are extremely harmful. Making us wonder if what we hear is what we get. Speaking of a revolution, let’s talk about the newest fad, sustainable fashion. so many brands claim that they are using recycled fabric to produce new products instead of natural resources to reduce their carbon footprint. However is it actually helping the environment, none of these brands are explaining how these alternatives are better. In 2019, H&M overproduced clothes worth $4.3 billion which remained unsold and later dumped into landfills. Interestingly, the Spanish brand Zara carries a ‘Join life’ tag which is stamped to be eco-friendly. However, the eco-friendly part is restricted just to the tag and not the whole garment. If the above pieces of information have left you unsettled then the question you need to be asking yourself is, “how can we bring about a change?”. Conscious buying through restyling, re-wearing, and reusing clothes that we already own, is a start! This will reduce your carbon footprint largely. Most of the trends tend to make a comeback within a few years. By keeping the clothes we own for a little longer we can be sure to look stylish when the trend comes back around. Do not believe in the false tag or claims made by the brands instead do your homework on how and where your clothes are made. Being responsible buyers, we can’t completely blame the brands for mass-producing when they are doing it, evidently, to meet our demands. It falls on us to be the change that we want to see in the world. With sustainable fashion is a hoax or not, the solution remains the same; conscious consumption. No matter how big or small the effort, it is a ripple in the large waters of change.

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DIFFERENCES

The world has changed its shape, size, and texture when it comes to understanding beauty. When One Direction said “That’s what makes you beautiful”, they were hitting all the right spots. By Megha Mahajan

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ver wondered why your skin is oily, dry, sensitive or even a combination of it all? Well, there are many factors that determine what your skin type is, which include water level, oil, and sensitivity.The water level of your skin provides elasticity, and comfort while the oil content affects it’s suppleness. The oiliness of our skin changes based on the weather conditions which is why we experience dry and itchy skin during winters. Even the area you dwell in decides what your skin would look and feel like. All that being said, are you really to be blamed for what your skin type is? Only a substantial amount of self care can affect your skin in its essence. It has to be understood that differences are only natural. Social media has changed the way we see and feel ourselves as well as the world around us. It brought in insecurities as well as positivity. Influencers posted pictures of their bare skin which had beautiful flaws and it led to a movement. It started with people flaunting their acne but it wasn’t limited to just that. The approach was to flaunt the insecurities rather than hiding them. The stigma, abuse, and embarrassment that can stem from skin conditions like rosacea, eczema and dermatitis is disheartening. For people struggling with skin conditions, this was a way to sense their selfworth. The most important thing is that your self-worth is not at the mercy of your appearance. . “Skin positivity is about confidence, self-love and reducing the stigma and shame that can be associated with visible skin conditions such as acne, scarring, or birthmarks to name a few,” consultant dermatologist Anjali Mahto. Skin positivity isn’t about changing the appearance of your skin, rather it is about embracing it all with its scars and flaws. While brands tell us that we need to tighten, brighten, clarify, and smear our skin with a plethora of products, all we need to do is accept and love ourselves. These differences make us unique, as the age old notion says, “Shapes come in together to create imagery through geometry”. Similarly, embracing these differences between the lines, curves, colors and texture of the skin, brings us all together. We lean towards a future of positivity where beauty caters to all individuals, regardless of their gender, age, religion, skin tone and especially, skin types.

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Genderless Fhion and society as a whole have opened up to non-binary and gender-fluid self-expression . Let’s flow into the conversation. By Megha Mahajan

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ender Fluidity is as simple as a change in understanding a person’s gender expression or gender identity or both. People who are flexible and can adapt themselves to any gender – one gender, multiple genders, or no gender at all; are considered to have a shifting shape of identity. The shift in gender expression is presented through how they dress up, carry, and describe themselves. Nonbinary people have found their solace in fashion. However, gender-fluid fashion is not just a fad . It has existed across cultures and held ground for many eras. “The notion that clothing as an expression of our personality, belongs to one gender or another, is the social construct that needs disassembling”, said Nick Paget, a senior analyst at WGSN. The imposed boundaries of gender have always been challenged and today the concept is furthermore questioned by millennials and GenZ. The brands and critical fashion players are now heavily involved with taking forth androgyny into their pieces. There are more unisex products available in mainstream fashion than ever before. The question still remains if these practices are for the sake of marketing as tokenistic attempts at ‘wokeness’ or if the industry is finally inclusive. Regardless to say genderless fashion is now a reality and commands we sit up and take notice. . The degree of representation these fluid groups at present demand is truly a force to reckon with. Gender-fluid fashion often is associated with oversized and free-flowing clothing that aims to blur the boundary between feminine and masculine dressing , by amalgamating the two to form a third identity. This new wave of gender-fluid fashion brands is changing the way we see, think and feel fashion. Pop culture hasn’t shy-ed away from making gender-fluid statements through fashion too. Jaden Smith has skirted his way into starring in Louis Vuitton womenswear campaigns, Frank Ocean is embracing make-up, while openly transgender model and actress Hari Nef fronts mega brand campaigns like L’Oréal and Gucci fragrances. Not to forget the grand appearance of Harry Styles in the Vogue December 2020 issue, where he was seen wearing a dress on the cover. It is fair to say pop culture is a catalyst for the rise of Gender Fluid fashion. One such example being Justin Beiber’s music video Peaches, where he is seen wearing a peach suit. Simple yet hitting all the notes, , this look bends gender norms like never before. Pinks and purples look as good on men as they do on women. With pop culture normalizing breaking fashion taboos one Instagram post at a time, it’s thrilling to see the change being pioneered positively and gaining mass acceptance. With evolving technologies and mindsets, makeup is now not just linked to femininity but has expanded its horizons to be genderless. Beauty and skincare industries can no longer cater solely to the traditional market to stay relevant. For generations, makeup was closely associated with women and their beauty. However, with changing times, new generations are questioning its conformity. The LGBTQ community has contributed majorly to breaking the stigma around makeup. Gender-neutral make-up has erased the concept of feminine women and masculine men. With clothing becoming uncategorized and genders becoming neutral, the thinking of people has shaped itself fluidly. It’s a long-awaited new dawn in the industry promising a free-flowing and vibrant longer table rather than a taller fence.

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Photography, concept & styling

Megha Mahajan Talent

Ron Kariappa Makeup

Tammana Verma

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fter a gruesome falling apart of a three-year-long relationship, I moved to the oh-so-charming city of Bengaluru. With loneliness and disorientation crippling me, I figured the next move should either be to tap in or tap out. So I tapped in and took up a course for post-grad in the city. One of my friends suggested that I try my hand at the trend of online dating. I was skeptical at first, , especially since I hail from a small city with minimal socializing and exposure. Meeting strangers through the internet for the purpose of dating was alien and a rather desperate concept for me. All my prior romantic relationships involved people who I personally

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ASY LOVE AND NEW-AGE XPECTATIONS

While love still remains an ambiguous term, do modern online relationships seek practicality or is it a headstart to next-gen whimsical love? By Megha Mahajan

knew through school, college, and from being acquaintances. Setting my inhibitions aside, I decided to take a leap of faith and installed Tinder. Initially, there was a lot of swiping left and right, accompanied by cheesy pick-ups and small talk. My criteria were very simple – a good-looking guy with a funny bio made the cut to the right swipe list. After some talking, I decided to go on a very random double date to a club. . We couldn’t make it to the club but the four of us took off to get some drinks. While I was highly strung because I was going out with someone new for the first time in 4 years but also dubious because, well it’s never a safe time to be a girl. Surprisingly the date turned out to be rather fun. We goofed around, went back to his place and hummed along while he strummed the guitar. The triumph of my first date led me to talk and go out more often. I was going on dates in bars, cafes, long drives, museums, and sometimes it was as simple as just going for a walk. The dates would usually start off with complimenting each other and then circle around generic topics. While there were

dates where we had interesting conversations on films, mythology, and philosophy; there were also other that were an hour long of dull small talk. The best part about these dates was the kinds of people I met. I found myself going out with writers, street artists, stand-up comedians, musicians, photographers, basketball jocks (the best kind) as well as meme-rs (the worst kind). Every single person had something new to add to the plate of vivid experiences. If not for my taking the leap of faith and trying a dating app, I would have probably not crossed paths with such divergent people. Tinder became a medium to go to, if and when, I needed some companionship. Living in a new city where you are by yourself can sometimes take a toll on you. Having been a person who never pushed her limits or did anything unconventional, this was a liberating moment for me. On the flipside, there have also been incidents when the dates went downhill. . Things get complicated when boundaries aren’t laid down clearly. With each person, you develop varied feelings and that’s part of the fun. Sometimes you get what you’re not seeking

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and it’s beautiful to let go. Other times, it doesn’t feel right. At times, it is not reciprocated as well as we’d expect. With everything being so easy and accessible, at times it just doesn’t feel important. There is a lot of stigma attached to going out on tinder dates because the platform is no longer a space to meet, but a space to find people to hook up . However, that’s not the case with everyone. Everyone on dating sites is on their own terms – their own liberty to pick their cause and their people as well as portray themselves a certain way. Dating sites now even categorize people who are looking for something serious or something casual, so users can match accordingly. However, interpersonal relationships have their own way of playing out. Serious dating for me had taken the backseat. . I had shunned myself because of the failures I had undergone. Being the social creatures humans are, casual dating became my way to fill in that void. I felt at ease after a long time, as if I can finally be content without the forced pressure of getting bound into a relationship. It needn’t be intimate with just physical attributes , sometimes people are mentally attractive too. Online dating sites have changed the way I seek relationships. The perceptions of serious ones and concepts like monogamy, love and compatibility have changed, morphed and blurred. Modern relationships are more individualistic, choice-oriented, and practical which definitely brings in a new arena for next-gen love and then some.

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OURSELF

NY | DELHI | BENGALURU | MUMBAI | PUNE

Ruse homage

Evolving Canvases Art has been used on innumerous mediums to portray the voices of souls and colors. While what constitutes art and what doesn’t still remains a mystery, the mediums of art now include bodies too.

By Megha Mahajan

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akeup is a form of art,to begin with. Many people still believe that cosmetics and makeup are an attempt to hide insecurities. This old-school belief is far from the truth, today.. Like any other artform, there is a lot of studies on color theory, symmetry and shapes that goes into understanding makeup. The craft in itself requires skill innately, like any other artform does. “Makeup is art One school of thought argues that overlining your lips and painting your face to a whole new perspective of yourself is not ‘Art’. Gone are the days when people confined themselves to a gleaming lip, a pretty eye, and maybe a little glitter at holiday time only. Makeup now is about creating the magic of art on blank canvases, read as ourselves.

“Getting inspired from various art forms like dance, music and painting always helps me feel more connected to myself. Therefore it projects a lot about me in many of my makeup projects/looks.” said the talented artist. Inspired by women of the cinematic world, she curated 4 extremely artistic and challenging looks for her project ‘femmes du monde’. Praba believes that and it ought to be art needs more representation than ever before. With recognised as such. Art can turn a blank today minimalism paving way into white canvas into a colorful display of just our lives, the outrageous and about anything. The same holds true for detailed art forms are taking an unnecessary step back.

makeup – it can transform the face from a natural, “plain” canvas to a sweeping, alluring one.”, said the makeup artist

“Since I had no face paints, I had to come up with a DIY. So I used blue eyeshadow mixed Praba. with micellar water for base and to achieve the purple lips I used the eyeshadow palette as I didn’t have a purple lipstick.” says Praba about creating the avatar look. Nandha Praba is a freelance makeup artist from She highlights that makeup or any other artform Bengaluru. Her work is known for its creative doesn’t require profuse usage of expensive products conceptualization and execution. To a makeup or tools. To achieve the white base in the Nun look, artist, the face is the canvas. Colors and blending she laughed and said she had to use Ponds talcum are as much a part of makeup as much as they are powder mixed with water”. In the same look for the of any other artform. Just like painters, makeup black scars and lines she used the gel eyeliner. artists have their palettes and brushes.

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Praba added that the base makeup for the Harley Quinn look was not as complicated as the previous looks. So she managed with the lightest foundation shade to whiten the skin and used red and blue eyeshadows for the eye. She further smudged off the lipstick to give it a raw and dangerous feel that the character holds. Looking at yourself as the character you embody only makes you wonder what the person behind the mirror sees you as. The embodiment of these characters or rather any character you portray, evokes an emotion in you that can’t be explained. It changes the way you look at yourself and so the confidence peaks. To some people makeup is about creating a mask, a beautiful or a bold one perhaps to hide and simultaneously show what they are. With extra contouring or a winged liner or a wine lipstick, sometimes it’s your personality trying to seek a representation through highlighting features. The creativity and imagination of the artist creates an experience so beautiful and meaningful for the eyes. Makeup does the same, it evokes emotion to the face. Makeup is not just an artform but also a tool for expression.

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GREEN

COLLECTION EXTRAORDINAIRE

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erry Indie elody

The Yellow Dairy spreads the marz of alternative rock music and makes Bengaluru groove for the weekend. By Megha Mahajan

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ndian audiences have very recently started to recognize Hindi music beyond the conventional Bollywood music. Indian tunes have been a culmination of diversity with fusion of classical, ragas, folklore and has taken influence as well as influenced western jazz and rock. The absolute serenity of Indian melodies has stayed intact even in its adaptation of heavy-metal. Bombay was the birthplace of the first few Indian indie rock bands including Indian Ocean, Pentagram, Zero and a few more. Alternative rock bands and indie artists have once again taken a surge in Indian music atmosphere with new artists constantly being recognized on social media as well as musical platforms. Mumbai-based alt rock indie band,

The Yellow Diary is one such band that has bulged into the top indie music bands. The band consists of – Himonshu Parikh (music producer), Rajan Batra (vocals), Stuart Da Costa (bass), Vaibhav Pani (guitar) and Sahil Shah (drummer), who have with their talent throbbed hearts of musicians like Vishal Dadlani, Papon, Warren Mendonsa and Raghu Dixit. Bengaluru had the chance to experience their congenial concert. Organized by Steppinout and Paytm Insider, it was hosted at GYLT nightclub, accommodating almost 500-600 people. This concert served to be a blast and was very treasured by the new soft rock lovers. Starting off with Ashwin Advani in the line-up, The Yellow Diary performed its 10 most popular and loved tracks.

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I’ve been to multiple shows of theirs, but this one in particular was something else. The vibe of the venue, the sound, the lights, the production. Felt like a dream all together. That night was memorable, to say the least.” said Ananya, an indie music enthusiast.

The concert was packed with hardcore indie lovers. The loud yet eloquent stringing of guitar and drumming got everyone into the vibe and then the brilliant vocals played off to match the boosted spirits. The crowd grooved with overwhelming emotions that the music bestowed. Perhaps this is what great music does! Roz roz and Marz are the most cherished tracks of The Yellow Diary and hearing them live, left fans in awe. Ananya further added, “The Yellow Diary has been one of my favorite bands. My boyfriend discovered them during the pandemic and I haven’t looked back since. They always hit the right spots.” Popularly known as Indian Linkin Park, this experimental band’s tracks range into all genres of alternative rock catering music for good, bad and sad times. Indian definition of Indie artists is skewed as it constitutes those who create music outside the film industry, which has a monopoly on the music space. It is good to see indie artists flourishing despite the age old scene of overproduced Bollywood hits. It is exciting to wait and see what the world of independent artists has to add to the way we feel music.

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E ss e n c e Not Lost

Invoking emotions and capturing the essence of the city is known to be the paramount function of public art. Nevertheless, the quench for expression is what Graffiti thrives upon. By Megha Mahajan

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raffiti is considered to be art that is drawn, written, or painted on walls typically to represent a rebellion. While in some parts it’s considered to be a means of visual communication, in others it’s a form of vandalism as it concerns the unauthorized marking of public places. “Being able to paint a unifying image, which strikes a common chord in people, is tough, and yet when you do so, it becomes gratifying,” says Delhi-based artist Anpu Varkey. “It is when artists tell their stories on the walls, that the power of the streets becomes energizing. It is not about going and absurdly painting. You become aware of your surroundings and the people living around you first. It is through their eyes that you see your work.” It can be traced back to ancient Egypt, Greek as well as the Roman Empire. Originally, it referred to inscriptions and drawings that were seen on ancient walls in the Catacombs of Rome or at Pompeii. The Ancient Greeks and Romans also graffitied their names and protest poems on public buildings, similar to modern taggers. Tagging, in graffiti etymology, means marking the territory, which is usually done by repeated use of a symbol or a stylized signature. This contemporary street art form rose to popularity in urban cities as recent as the late 20th century. Philadelphia and New York are considered to be the birthplace of Graffiti culture. Taking cues from Pop Art, Abstract Expressionism, and Surrealism, Graffiti was a part of the contemporary art movement. Like any other art, the core purpose of Graffiti is also to express oneself, share a story or spread a message. Banksy, an anonymous street artist captured the interest of art lovers and even activists with his very popular artworks including ‘Everyone’s got skeletons’, ‘All love is valid’, etc. Banksy’s art speaks volumes. By displaying art in crowded cities across the world, he puts social and political issues in our faces. . Graffiti can be political, humorous, criminal, or even beautiful. It challenges societal norms and laws, and it does not aim to be legal. On the flipside, often used for marking territories, graffiti has also been heavily used in gang culture. Graffiti however can tell you a lot about the people, politics, subcultures, counter-cultures, and socio-economics of an area.

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While there are still concerns amongst the general public about Graffiti being an act of beautifying or defacing walls, it is to be understood that any piece of art is subjective and no one has a say to determine what constitutes art and what does not. Acceptance and appreciation are what this rebellious art form desires and demands.

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Breaking monotony

Next Gen Street Designers are paving a way for art and expression to reside together into merchandise. We picked stories of three designers who started very recently and are going above and beyond the spectrum of gender expression. By Megha Mahajan

Anvitha Sharma, Two Point Two Studio

Blurring gender lines through clothing, this designer takes inspiration from art to create a more unique art form . Having launched her label in 2017, Sharma has tried to create a design sensibility that believes in uniting and celebrating differences instead of restricting people based on them. Clothing at Two Point Two Studio is oversized and free-flowing, with raw threadwork and embroideries. Beauty in imperfection being the core concept of her work, the designer studio embraces and makes garments that could be worn by people of different shapes, sizes and genders. Sharmas expansive mood board is inspired by an array of artists, right from Marina Abramovic to the French illustrator George Lepape. This Delhi-based designer uses exquisite patterns and prints predominantly in her designs alongside embroidery crafted by the few of the finest craftsmen signifying appreciation for her Indian roots.

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Jay Jajal, Jaywalking

Crisp and loud illustrations of Jaywalking are hand illustrated by the designer himself . India’s most distinctive street fashion label takes inspiration from human bodies and abstractism . The uniqueness and individuality expressed through his pieces speak volumes as they have a voice of their own and involve a strong human touch. Hailing from a family of clothing makers from Mumbai, Jay wanted to add his own flavor to the plate. “I was tired with the whole fashion scene, with everyone looking exactly the same after Zara and other high street labels came to India. Everyone’s Instagram [feeds] looked the same. I wanted to make something that I liked and, for once, not do something to please a particular audience.”, says the designer. Breaking the monotony with patterns, cuts and hues and create something newfangled is Jay’s paramount vision.

Pranav Misra and Shyma Shetty, Huemn

Promoting individuality, sustainability, inclusivity and mindful buying, Huemn makes art into practical fashion through prints. While Indian audience are still myopic to androgynous clothing, Huemn’s pieces are wearable art. These free-thinking designers make tee shirts that have unique graphics aiding responsible carelessness. Misra and Shetty hailing from Lucknow and Bengaluru respectively, have come a long way amalgamating art into their visual language. Creating experimental designs by studying the connection between fashion, politics and culture is their forte. These designers are creating a modern luxury gender fluid aesthetic and we are standing at the forefront.

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Untitled by Walter Langhammer (Source: Archieves)

Resurrection (1973) by Rabin Mondal (Source: Indian Express archieves)

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Ruse finds A new art exhibition explores the history of the colour blue in India and the world prompted by its seemingly universal value. We bring to you the very essense of blue through the artwork By Megha Mahajan

Shiva’s Bull by Satish Gujral (Source: Indian Express Archieves)

Untitled by G R Santosh (Source: Indian Express Archieves)

Untitled (River scene) by K.C.S. Paniker (Source: PR Handout)

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