TROPICAL FLAVOURS, SUMMER SALADS AND EASY ENTERTAINING JA N 2023 AU$9.99 NZ$10.99 OUR ULTIMATE FIJI RESORT GUIDE GOLDEN HOUR ABOARD SEA RAES SUMMER LEMON & THREE CHE SE ZZI P E A p52 ISLANDS I N T H E S U N C A P R I , F I J I , G R E E C E , T U R K E Y A N D M O R E

This summer, treat your senses to unlimited holidays with a single ticket aboard a Royal Caribbean cruise, traversing destinations across Australia, New Zealand and the sun-drenched South Pacific Once onboard, pop the champagne and take your tastebuds on a tantalizing, gourmet getaway - first stop, the crazy culinary creations at Wonderland™. Next up – explore ashore and satisfy your curiosity with local sights and flavours. Time to chill? Towel up and wind down on a serene spa getaway with a couples massage at Vitality Spa. Finally, wrap up the night with jaw-dropping entertainment the whole family will love. With so many holidays to experience, what will you get out of your next Royal Caribbean getaway? 2022 BEST FOR Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards ACTIVITIES

The genius of Maurice O’Shea. Captured by Max Dupain. Continued by Mount Pleasant. Mount Pleasant. Created by a legend. O V E R 1 0 0 Y E A R S O F W I N E M A K I N G visit www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

T h e island i s s u e Food ISLAND LIFE Fresh produce and bright flavours bring holiday vibes to lifein this collection of tropical recipes. Watermelon, ginger and makrut lime shrub............................90 Sweet and sour eggplant skewers with coconut and kale sambal........................ .90 Crisp pork, banana blossom and tamarind hot sauce ............ 93 Barbecued coral trout in banana leaves with baby carrot escovitch ..................93 Tuna ota ika with lotus root...95 Lemongrass beef with mango and Thai basil.......................97 Chilli-charred pineapple with salted coconut and passionfruit caramel............97 88 BONDI ICON Restaurateur Maurice Terzini celebrates 20 years of Icebergs Dining Room and Bar with a new cookbook. Oysters with verjus, pink peppercorn and lemon myrtle dressing..................110 Icebergs Punch Bowl.............111 Insalata Caprese ...................112 Local lobster spaghetti with vin jaune sauce .................113 Taglioni allo scoglio.......... ....113 108 SALAD DAYS Perfect for alfresco dining, these standout salads will see you through the summer. Shawarma-spiced chicken with pomegranate tabbouleh .103 Tea-smoked salmon with yuzu kosho, orange and fennel ..........................103 Cherry and Chinese spiced duck salad..........................104 Lemon-scented labneh with fig and beetroot.......................104 Spiced lamb larb with crisp vermicelli...................107 Kombu-cured kingfish poke bowl............................107 Charred peach, tomato and soppressata salad ............ 107 98 PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR. STYLING STEVE PEARCE.

JANUARY 2023 ON THE COVER Summer lemon and three cheese pizza (p52) Recipe Jessica Brook Photography John Paul Urizar Styling Steve Pearce SUBSCRIBE magshop.com.au/GMT Details p84 Regulars Travel 13 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news. 31 FIVE OF A KIND Anchovies. 32 A QUICK WORD Ash Barty. 34 THE KITCHEN GARDENER Coriander. 36 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Professor Megan Davis. 38 WINE COUNTRY Clare Valley. 40 COCKTAIL HOUR Siesta. 42 REVIEW Dining out. 49 EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals. 58 MASTERCLASS Tartare sauce. 116 THE ART OF TRAVEL Island landing. 126 A CHEF’S GUIDE Laconia, Greece. 140 CHECKING IN Hotel Kurrajong, Canberra. 146 STYLE Home, fashion and beauty. 154 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Beach chairs. CRUISE CONTROL Lee Tulloch looks at the state of the cruise industry and 68 how travellers can sail more sustainably. Features KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY Anna McCooe shares her tips on how to survive the multigenerational holiday. 72 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present. This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Are Media Pty Ltd (Are Media). Are Media may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Are publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at aremedia.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. AreMediamay disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agentslocated throughout theworld, including in NewZealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected for Reader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Are Media in the conduct of the Reader Offer and to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice is provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader Offers may also be disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products, services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you require further information, please contact Are’s Privacy Officer either by email at [email protected] ormail to Privacy Officer, Are Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000. BODACIOUS BEAUTY Treat your senses to a feast on the Aegan with this trip through the lavish town of Bodrum, Turkey. 134 HOT IN THE CITY From new luxury hotels to swanky restaurants, Fiona 6 Donnelly finds out why Brisbane is on the move. 2 ISLANDS IN THE SUN Immerse yourself in paradise with Lee Tulloch’s guide to Fiji’s must-stay luxe resorts. 118 SUMMER LOVIN’ Settle in with Hannah-Rose Yee’s guide to summer’s best books. 74 SEA RAES AND SUNSHINE Can a beloved boutique hotel translate to a luxury floating experience? GT jumps aboard to find out. 79 FELICE VACANZA Postcards from the Amalfi Coast and the isle of Capri capture endless sun and azure waters. 128 6 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER PHOTOGRAPHY TARYN PECK.

Summer daze 1 Mayde sunshine towel in Mustard, $99.95. 2 Unawatuna premium beach umbrella in Burnt Orange Sun Flare, $274. 3 Happy Hours Nourish moisturiser, $42 for 300ml. 4 Ace of Something Cascata wide-brim boater in Natural, $89.95. hardtofind.com.au/GT H A R D T O F I N D E D I T Contributors Words Food Digital Alexandra Carlton, Fiona Donnelly, Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Matty Hirsch, Belinda Luksic, Kylie Kwong, Alley Pascoe, Samantha Payne, Simon Rickard, Jessica Rigg, Katie Spain, Lee Tulloch, Max Veenhuyzen, Hannah-Rose Yee Suzanna Chriss Jordan Kretchmer Charlotte Wishart Senior Sub-editor News Editor Editorial Coordinator Anna McCooe Lauren de Sousa Holly Doran Hannah Blackmore Deputy Editor Art Director Designer Creative Consultant Sophia Young Dominic Smith Group Food Director Senior Food Editor Digital managing editor Digital editor Jayde Malifa Cordelia Williamson GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU [email protected] Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000, (02) 9282 8000. The trade mark Gourmet Traveller is the property of Are Media Pty Limited and is used under licence. ©2020 All rights reserved. Printed by IVE, Unit 1/83 Derby St, Silverwater, NSW, 2128. National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. 1300 650 666. Gourmet Traveller cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such materials are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. Price in Australia, $9.99; in New Zealand, NZ$10.99; digital edition, $3.99. Subscription rates: 1 year (12 issues) $74.99 via automatic renewal; 1 year (12 issues) $79.99 via credit card or cheque; NZ (airspeed) 1 year, $120; overseas (airspeed) 1 year, $180; digital edition monthly, $2.99; 6 months, $9.99; 1 year, $19.99. Vol 20 No 5 ISSN 1034-9006 Editor Joanna Hunkin @gourmettraveller 8 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER

61 2 9282 8758 Subscriptions Gourmet Traveller, Reply Paid 5252, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia, phone 136 116, email [email protected] Advertising Marketing,Research&Circulation Are Media Louise Cankett Kathrine Holland Joyce Li Nicole Pearson Ania Falenciak Ellie Xuereb Anjali Israni Marketing Director Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator Circulation Manager Senior Research Analyst Senior Manager Subscriptions Junior Manager Subscriptions Jane Huxley Agnieszka Hatton Nicole Byers Andrew Cook Simon Smith Georgina Bromfield Chief Executive Officer Director of Content and Commercial Group Publisher Director of Sales Head of Commercial Content and Creative Business Manager Rhyl Heavener Kate Orsborn Julia Maher Cate Gazal Karen Holmes Will Jamison Judy Taylor Clare Catt Sally Jefferys Dominic Roy [email protected] Group Commercial Brand Manager Advertising Production Manager Brand Executive Senior Events Manager Director of Sales (NSW, Vic, WA and SA) Head of Direct Sales (Vic, SA, WA) Queensland Head of Sales Creative Director Production Controller Advertising Production Coordinator Advertising enquiries GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU [email protected] @gourmettraveller

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EMAIL [email protected] // FOLLOW @GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU Perhaps the only thing I love more than a tropical island getaway, is a tropical island nap. Forget spa treatments and guided meditation, for a restorative boost, I will take an afternoon siesta in the shade of a fluttering palm tree any day. Just thinking about it now warms my skin and slows my mind. Which is the same feeling we wanted to bring to this issue, easing you gently into 2023. You’ll find no New Year, New You affirmations in these pages. Rather, we invite you to sink into the comfort of island life, feasting on tropical recipes and refreshing drinks (the watermelon and ginger shrub on p90 will be my signature drink this summer). Grab a good book – as recommended by the marvellous Hannah-Rose Yee – and graze your afternoons away, knowing the only decision you need to make is whether to have our summer lemon and three cheese pizza for dinner tonight, or tomorrow. Of course, we have new adventures and stories to share this year but all in good time. For now, take a breath and savour the tranquillity of a well-deserved summer break. Happy New Year. SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p84 WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH Oliver James Lilos Whether it’s in a pool, on the lawn, or hidden under the shade of your favourite palm tree, summer lounging never looked so chic as it does on one of these luxury upholstered lilos. We especially love the retro stripes of the Shore Regatta. oliverjameslilos.com KitchenAid Hibiscus Move over millennial pink, there’s a new colour in town and it is hot, hot, hot! Hibiscus is the Colour of the Year according to KitchenAid, with the blazing pink range promising to bring tropical flair to any kitchen counter. kitchenaid.com.au Maison de Sabré Jelligrain Designed to mimic the look and feel of full-grain leather, all-new Jelligrain is made from biocompatible silicone, to deliver both style and sustainability. Available in six tropical colours, to keep your phone safe and stylish. maisondesabre.com Summer Siesta by The Raconteur The Raconteur has captured the scent of summer with its new range of candles, inspired by three of Australia’s best loved wine regions: Margaret River, Mornington and the Barossa. theraconteur.co GOURMET A P P R O V E D E dito r’s lette r GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 13 E d i t o r’ s l e t t e r PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (SHRUB) & CHRIS COURT (PORTRAIT).

CLARE MAGUIRE chef and recipe developer Island life, p88 After working at Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurant and private cheffing in Europe, Clare Maguire made the move to sunny Australia. For this issue she looked to the tropical produce and flavour-forward techniques of Thailand, Sri Lanka and Tonga for a summer-ready spread. “I took inspiration from places I’ve travelled to and worked in,” she says. So grab some ripe mangoes; char your pineapples; and challenge yourself to barbecue coral trout, wrapped in banana leaves for a tropical summer feast. BELINDA LUKSIC writer Bodacious beauty, p134 For Australian writer Belinda Luksic, food is inextricably bound to history; every dish a map of conquerors past. For this issue, she travelled to the Bodrum Peninsula in Turkey to delve into the heart of Ottoman cuisine. “Turkish food is remarkable. It’s a real melting pot of Mediterranean, Balkan, Middle Eastern and Central Asian cuisines. It draws on simple flavours and fresh produce that sing of the sun and the earth,” says Luksic. “But in Bodrum, it is also about taking time and enjoying company.” DAVID MORGAN stylist Salad days, p98 Following years in London as a chef, David Morgan packed his bags and – as many English do – travelled to Australia for a stint of backpacking. In Sydney, a call out for food stylists at the Australian Women’s Weekly caught his eye, and after a visit to the test kitchen, the rest is history. “Watching the food stylists work was amazing,” says Morgan. “I knew I wanted to style for the rest of my life.” In this issue, he styles our vibrant summer salads feature, shot in the same studios where he first started his food styling career. C o n tr i b u t o r s p134 Bodacious beauty 14 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER

24 March – 2 April 2023 Scan to program & orangefoodweek.com.au to purchase tickets A Feast Full of Flavour and Fun

Busselton Jetty, WA No trip to WA’s southwest is complete without a stop at this historic 1.84km jetty, over Geographe Bay. After a walk out to the blue horizon, lunch at Alberta’s Kitchen and Store turns a good afternoon into a great one. Cordelia Williamson, digital editor The Bower, Byron Bay, NSW The sprawling double daybeds, well-stocked bar and jungle-like garden surrounding this pool make a compelling case to lounge around like a lizard all day. But Byron’s ever-growing dining scene means pulling yourself away from the pool is essential. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor Dishes and destinations The Gourmet Traveller team share where they’ve been and whatthey’re eating. Sydney Modern Project, NSW Expect to see this bright Yayoi Kusama sculpture blooming on Instagram feeds all throughout summer, with the arrival of Sydney’s newest gallery. Kusama’s piece might be the most eye-catching work on display but the world-class gallery has plenty of exhibitions worth carving a summer afternoon to see. Lauren de Sousa, art director The Gantry, Sydney, NSW If ever we needed confirmation hotel dining is coming back, this is it. After renovations, The Gantry Pier One is back with chef Rhys Connell (ex Society, Sepia) crafting a perfectly indulgent menu including this artful dessert. Anna McCooe, deputy editor Osborn House, Southern Highlands, NSW The Southern Highlands isn’t just a winter destination and this bright octopus with confit Robertson potatoes, tomato aïoli and paprika shows exactly why. Fireside cooking and whisky can be enjoyed in any season. Dominic Smith, senior food editor GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 17

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Gelato spots to hit, new restaurants across the country, what to eat at the Australian Open, and the hottest hotel openings in 2023. S H I N Y A N D N E W p20 Pixie Food & Wine, Byron Bay GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 19 PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

RE STAU RA N T N E W S T H E L A T E S T F R O M C H E F S A N D R E S T A U R A N T S A R O U N D A U S T R A L I A NORTHERN RIVERS If you’re taking a trip along Australia’s East Coast this summer, you’ll be greeted by a bounty of excellent openings. In Byron Bay, head to the newly opened Jonson Lane precinct. At the new Light Years, you’ll find Sarah Ellison interiors and punchy Asian eats. Next door, at Pixie Food & Wine, ex-Grossi Florentino chef Matteo Tine is on the pans doing modern Italian snacks. Think sweet fermented pumpkin atop a delicate blue swimmer crab tartlet; or albacore tuna smoked and cured in a Katz’s Deli-inspired pastrami rub. Pasta is also a focus, with spaghetti alla chitarra with vongole, and lobster tortellini. Drinks-wise they’ve called upon more Melbourne talent, with Joe Jones of Romeo Lane on board to pour mandarin Mimosas, ice-cold Martinis, and strawberry amaro to finish. Further north at Cudgen in the lush Tweed Valley, is Farm & Co. Bringing integrity to the phrase “paddock to plate” the 52-acre working organic farm is joined by a solar-powered restaurant. The collaboration between Mark Wilson (of Lolita’s Mexican Cantina) and Rachel Duffy (ex-Icebergs Dining Room and Bar general manager) draws upon the pair’s extensive experience in hospitality. Menu-wise you might enjoy a ham hock terrine or garden pickles to start; followed by wood-fired lamb shoulder; or charred broccoli steaks with sunflower seed hummus. After the meal, stretch the legs with a tour of the farm or a walk through the sunflower fields. BRISBANE Wynnum has welcomed a new 55-seater wine bar. Adelita has called upon executive chef Esca Khoo to create the menu, carried out by head chef Noah Soowon. Expect sardine escabeche and fennel on rye toast; house-made wild pig chorizo; or duck liver pâté with Pedro Ximénez and chicken skin; alongside glasses of Australian minimal intervention wines, poured from taps to save on glass bottles and hone in on the bar’s sustainable focus. Clockwise from left: Negroni at Pixie Food & Wine; the private dining room; and co-owners James Sutherland and Kim Stephen. 20 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (PIXIE) & ANSON SMART (PIXIE INTERIOR).

Clockwise from right: Stokehouse Pasta & Wine’s dining room; and spaghetti with crab and chilli; oysters at Mod Dining; and anchovies with aglio nero ciambella at Sala. SYDNEY Sydney’s grand new art gallery is also home to a restaurant well worth checking out. Within the expansive Sydney Modern is the Clayton Wells-fronted Mod Dining. Bright and energetic eats are plated up to look like works of art themselves: be it oysters with a vibrant marigold oil; steamed clams teamed with a verdant curry leaf sauce; or slow-cooked lamb joined by magenta spears of pickled radish and yellow peppers. On Jones Bay Wharf, Sala is the new Italian restaurant taking up shop in the former Flying Fish digs. Seafood will be the focus of the harbourfront venue, with an extensive crudo section on the menu (including blue mackerel with bean agrodolce; or scallops with pickled mushrooms and fennel); and pastas (including mussel cavatelli and albacore tuna agnolotti). In Redfern, Redbird Chinese has opened by former Bar H owners Hamish Ingham (ex-Billy Kwong) and Rebecca Lines. Every few weeks the hero poultry will change; but it always sees slowly poached in an aromatic red braise, be it duck, chicken or goose. The starring bird is joined by prawn toast; pork and scallop wontons; and sang choi bau. The modern Chinese diner also sees sommelier Rebecca Lines draw upon both natural and classic drops. Central Station has welcomed three new venues under the sandstone arches of Eddy Avenue. Picnic Central is the IRL incarnation of online shop Condimental. After supplying Sydney with delicious condiments for the past three years, and great toasties at Carriageworks Farmers Market, the new home will have a focus on coffee, alongside picnic and cheeseboard supplies and sandwiches. Nearby, Shades is a neighbourhood pop-up bar, by the team behind Golden Age Cinema and Bar. Designed by Michael Delaney (whose portfolio includes Cafe Freda’s, Club 77 and Piccolo Bar) Shades wil focus on disco-inspired cocktails, wine and beer. Next door is City Oltra. Headed up by Dimitri’s chief pizza maker Drew Huston and the team behind Poor Toms Gin and Ben Fester, the pizzeria will be doing pizza by the slice, and whole pies for takeaway, which can be enjoyed in-house or taken over to Shades bar. MELBOURNE The team behind Al Dente Enoteca has opened another offshoot at its Carlton HQ. The more casual Al Dente Sapori is BYO and hero dishes include vitello tonnato and spaghetti alle vongole. The venue (which sits alongside the Enoteca) still has items to shop, but the focus will shift to dining in. In St Kilda, Stokehouse Pasta & Bar has taken over the space formerly known as Pontoon. The beach-level all-day Mediterranean eatery will see a pasta-led menu by executive chef Jason Staudt and head chef Brendan Anderson, with smaller entrée-sized pastas through to family sharing options. In the CBD, Gimlet is set to open a new bar. The team will again work with Sydney design house ACME (who also designed the elegant Gimlet at Cavendish House), and it will be located just a few doors down. It will have 28 seats and no kitchen, so expect freshly shucked oysters, sea urchin and slices of jamon, and a focus on expertly made classic cocktails. N e w s TOM BLACHFORD (STOKEHOUSE INTERIORS), JUDE COHEN (SALA), ARIANNA LEGGIERO (STOKEHOUSE DISH), NIKKI TO (MOD DINING).

GAME, SET, SNACK While the international players are the major drawcards of the Australian Open, the wider precinct is once again set to sizzle thanks to some tasty appearances by interstate and local chefs. This year, Sydney-based Josh Niland will bring his hero dishes from Fish Butchery and Charcoal Fish to Melbourne Park. Between sets you can smash his much-loved double yellowfin tuna cheeseburger, which recently gained global attention thanks to its appearance on Netflix’s Down to Earth with Zac Efron. “It’s a summary of six years of work that we’ve done here,” says Niland. “It’s dry-aged. It’s offal. It’s whole fish cookery. So in one handful you’ve got a whole lot of thinking behind it, without pushing someone into a corner saying, ‘You must respect the whole fish.’ It’s just a delicious, tangible, sustainable product.” Punters can also try the Murray cod and gravy roll; or vegetarians can get around a roast pumpkin salad with honey mustard, dukkah and sage. Dishes will also be served on Green My Plate, reusable plates to redirect waste from landfill. Alongside cooking, Niland will also spearhead the first of the new AO Talk Series, which brings to stage talent from across the organisation and experience. Here, Niland will share more about his sustainability ethos and cooking wisdom too. But most of all, Niland is excited for the people of Melbourne to try his food. “It’s nice to fly the Sydney flag down in Melbourne,” he says. Another chef who is already flying that flag is Jacqui Challinor, who relocated from Sydney to Melbourne to open the second Nomad restaurant this year. It will be Challinor’s first appearance at the event, and she even joined her local tennis club when she found out she’d be cooking at the AO. Expect rock oysters with Nomad Worcestershire; prawn sandwiches; mushroom and bone marrow empanadas; and house-made charcuterie including salami, ocean trout basturma and duck mortadella. Andrew McConnell will also host Supernormal; and Shane Delia will be doing snazzy snack boxes from Maha, while the Penfolds Restaurant and Rockpool Bar and Grill will both return. Bookings are encouraged, but many of the venues will have casual bar offerings alongside more formal set menus. Either way come hungry for the sets and the snacks. January 16 to 29, Melbourne Park, ausopen.com Clockwise from above: Rod Laver arena lights up; chef Jacqui Challinor; a spread from Maha Bar; and Charcoal Fish’s signature burger. 22 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER N e w s PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE HEMER (ROD LAVER ARENA) & PETRINA TINSLAY (CHALLINOR).

T H R E E T O T R Y N E W G E L A T O S H O P S 1 Kariton Sorbetes, Melbourne CBD Taking Italian gelato bases and smashing them up with bold Asian flavours makes for distinctive scoops at Kariton’s second outpost. Chefs John Rivera and Minh Duong bring creative thinking to each creation: be it coffee gelato with milk crumb and toasted pandesal (Filipino bread); or watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew ice candies. karitonsorbetes.com 2 Pidapipó Laboratorio, Fitzroy Much-loved Melbourne gelato brand Pidapipó is steeped in history, but also is breaking new ground with the launch of its hybrid retail and production space. The spectacle of crafting gelato is on show, alongside Neapolitan bombe Alaskas and handmade chocolates. pidapipo.com 3 Frankies Gelato, Byron Bay Set a block back from Byron Bay’s main beach, Frankies sees co-owner Franco Giordano scooping gelato from pozzetti tubs. Where this scoop shop ups the ante is in its mashing together of Byron Bay produce to create bespoke Byron flavours: be it a silky macadamia and coffee number; or vegan golden milk flavour with almond butter and turmeric. frankiesgelato.com 2 O N T H E PA S S w i t h R H I A N N M E A D , T H E C H A R L E S G R A N D B R A S S E R I E & B A R How did you get your start as a pastry chef? I didn’t really mean to get into baking. I worked at Harrods Food Halls in London during my gap year before starting physiotherapy at university. While I was there I saw all of the amazing pastry creations and chocolates on display and I knew I needed to learn more. I met one of the pastry chefs there and started hassling him everyday until he agreed to let me do an apprenticeship with him. What’s been the highlight of becoming head pastry chef at The Charles? Curating the dessert trolley has been so fun. It was really exciting to have an opportunity to do à la carte service as well as a trolley, because I feel like as a pastry chef, you’re usually doing one of two things: either production for a trolley or display, or service. At The Charles, I have the opportunity to do both. You’ve created a magnificent dessert menu at The Charles. How do you decide which pastries to feature? The Charles is a grand European brasserie, so I’ve done a lot of research on out-of-the-ordinary Eastern European desserts from places like Poland or Russia. Finally, what is your favourite thing to bake at home? At home I love making things like dougnuts, croissants, or puff pastry. Things that have a particular formula or process. It can be so therapeutic and soothing to create a dessert with so many layers. The Charles, thecharles.sydney 3 1 GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 23 ADDITIONAL REPORTING CHARLOTTE WISHART (ON THE PASS). PHOTOGRAPHY PETE DILLON (PIDAPIPÓ).

Clockwise from right: Natoora founder Franco Fubini; and Natoora’s fresh produce. REEF ENCOUNTER The best way to stop that end-of-holiday feeling is to book your next one. Now open to book for the mid-year season, Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef brings luxury safari lodgings to Western Australia’s Cape Range National Park, home to one of the world’s longest fringing reefs. July is prime time for humpbacks, whale sharks and temperate weather. Add clear waters and sprawling gorges, and this will be a trip you’re counting down to. salsalis.com.au WHISKY BUSINESS The high seas have often been associated with whisky and rum, but Oceania Cruises is taking this tradition to an elegant new level with its new spirits program. You can now learn the art of mixology at sea, try carefully curated smoked cocktails or peruse the Macallan Diamond Bar Cart aboard all Oceania Cruises. oceaniacruises.com LOCAL RESOURCES We often hear about chefs loving to use small-scale producers, but the realities of bringing these farmers’ goods to the table are not always simple. Enter Natoora, an international food start-up that combines technology and education to change the food supply chain. Founder Franco Fubini started it in the UK in 2004, connecting growers with chefs and home customers, going on to launch in London, Paris, New York, and now Melbourne. Joining forces with Northside Fruit and Vegetables in Victoria, Natoora has already built an impressive roster of restaurants including Hope Street Radio, Etta and Manze. By sourcing unique produce – and allowing chefs to cook, and farmers to further specialise in growing hyper-local produce – Natoora looks after the logistics. “A lot of the challenge of delivering really good quality product is the logistics around it,” says Fubini. “The level of impact that we can have in working with farms, and building the scale by pooling all of the resources from all the restaurants we source for, allows us to work in a way that is impossible to do as a single restaurant.” This then allows farmers to respond to the demand for unique varieties of fruits and vegetables. Alongside restaurants, Melburnians will also be able to get their hands on peak season boxes, giving them a tasty snapshot of these speciality growers. Along with Melbourne, Natoora has plans to expand into regional Victoria, and other capital cities over the next year. “I think what’s fundamental, whether you’re a chef or whether you’re a consumer eating at a restaurant or at home, is that every time that you sit down and have a meal, you have the power to have an impact on the food system, a positive impact,” says Fubini. natoora.com/melbourne/ After a sold-out debut Lennox Hastie is joining forces with The Balvenie to host another whisky culinary experience at Firedoor in February. The intimate evening includes a five-course menu – with Hastie’s signature fire-driven cooking – paired with single malts, and two never-before released cask samples direct from the Balvenie Distillery in Scotland. Guests fired up to attend this hotly ticketed evening will need to enter the ballot. Entries open until February 6. $475 per person, shop-au.thebalvenie.com 24 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER

One of Australia’s most iconic island getaways has levelled up its luxury offering with the arrival of 12 private beachfront pavilions, secluded away from the main resort at Hayman Island Intercontinental. The new adults-only accommodation offers guests direct beach access, as well as their own heated private plunge pool and exclusive access to the My Concierge service, which sees a dedicated team on call to cater to any and all special requests. Inside, each pavilion features a separate lounge and spacious bathroom, including a deep soaking tub with views of the idyllic, palm-fringed beach. But while the temptation to stay secluded and make the most of the private retreats is strong, there is one very good reason to venture further afield and into the main resort complex – the food. ESCAPE TO THE ISLAND The arrival of executive chef Paul Lewis has seen a complete overhaul of all dining on the island, including the resort’s signature restaurant Pacific, which is now serving up dry-aged beef, alongside all manner of fresh seafood and other flavourful delights. Standout dishes when Gourmet Traveller visited included quail with black garlic and grapes remoulade, and barbecued octopus with fermented chilli, fennel and whipped lardo. At the poolside restaurant Bam Bam, Lewis has modernised the Pan-Asian menu to include a hibachi section, alongside street food-inspired snacks and sharing plates. Those travelling with a group can pre-order a whole suckling pig, which feeds eight and promises to impress everyone in the immediate vicinity. Hayman Island Intercontinental Resort’s beachfront pavilions. Hayman Island Intercontinental Resort, Beachfront Pavilions from $2750 per night, haymanisland.intercontinental.com N e w s WORDS JOANNA HUNKIN. PHOTOGRAPHY KONRAD KASISKE.

With travellers returning in droves,Australia is bringing itsA-game when it comes to hotels.With a host of new openings on the horizon, we take a look atthe ones promising to make the biggest splash. HOTEL AGENDA THE ROYCE SOUTH YARRA, FEBRUARY 2023 Many have set out to become the “Rolls Royce” of hotels but this boutique stay has real claims on the title. It helps the site was the car brand’s original Melbourne home. Even more deserving is the latest refurbishment, which aims to immerse guests in glamour. An illuminated porte-cochère (a grand arch) will greet guests, joined by 94 guest rooms, a marble staircase and fireplace, 24-hour concierge, and a swanky bar. In the rooms, freestanding baths, Molton Brown amenities and botanical wallpaper will round out this spiffy South Yarra spot. W SYDNEY DARLING HARBOUR, OCTOBER 2023 The glossy glass facade of this striking hotel has been sitting almost-ready for guests for years, but 2023 is the year the W Sydney will finally swing open its curvy and cool doors. In October you can expect luxurious rooms replete with azure blue bathrooms and walk-in wardrobes; a patterned infinity pool and a two-storey rooftop bar. CAPELLA SYDNEY, MARCH 2023 Behind the sprawling sandstone Edwardian Baroque building lies the hotly anticipated Capella. Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt of The Bentley Group have signed up to run in-house restaurant, Brasserie 1930. Beyond the marble foyer will be 192 guestrooms joined by an upper-level wellness spaces including an indoor pool, yoga platform and Auriga Spa. Guests will also be granted access to the private Living Room – a signature of Capella properties across the world. Here, local pros or Capella Culturists will be on hand to organise guest activities both in and outside the hotel. MORRIS SYDNEY, EARLY 2023 Sydney will continue to revitalise historic architecture with new age hotels, when Morris arrives on Pitt Street. Situated in an Italian renaissance building the Accor boutique hotel will sit near the Capitol Theatre and World Square. Expect 82 art decoinspired rooms; and a swanky new bar within. 26 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER

Liquor Merchants and Daniel Medcalf (No 35 Kitchen and Bar) are on board. Guests can also expect an in-house fashion line, designer souvenirs and a crowd of cool kids for high-octane people watching. AND MORE TO LOOK FORWARD TO... BONOBO BY RAES Raes will expand its footprint on Byron Bay, with a new luxury apartment hotel in the centre of town. Due for completion mid-2024, Bonobo by Raes will include a grand central courtyard, retailers, luxury serviced apartments, plus a five-star hotel. THE CALILE NOOSA Brisbane’s hottest hotel is set to welcome a sibling to the sunny shores of Noosa, sometime in 2026. With developers Calile Malouf Investments lodging an application for development. Works are set to start next year. GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 27 N e w s

Contains Alcohol. BE BRILLIANT AND INSPIRED, DRINK RESPONSIBLY. ©2022 BOMBAY SAPPHIRE AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS. Discoverthe Naturally refreshing. Bright & Zesty taste.

As a potent source of salty, umami flavour,these preserved fish make the perfect summer snack. Anchovies 3. CONSERVAS NARDIN SMOKED ANCHOVIES At this family-owned Sicilian fishery, the fine art of salting and preserving anchovies is overseen by just 20 master canners. This particular line is imbued with a gentle smoked flavour reminiscent of smoked ham or trout. You’ll also find these delicate beauties on the menu at Pellegrino 2000 and Saint Peter. $18.50 for 100gm, gourmetlife.com.au 1. ORTIZ BOQUERONES These silky-textured white anchovies (which are preserved in vinegar and oil soon after being caught, rather than being salted and aged) possess a sharp citrus punch. The garlicky marinade and bright flavour would go well chopped through a salad or as part of a tapas spread. $16.99 for 110gm, harrisfarm.com.au 5. CONSERVAS ANGELACHU Firm but forgiving, tender and meaty, these Cantabrian anchovies are immaculately presented in the tin, and the taste matches. Each anchovy fillet packs huge flavour, with the skin entirely removed and an even rosewood pink hue that makes them ideal to serve simply with bread as an impressive entrée. $40 for 115gm, vicsmeat.com.au 2. OLASAGASTI CANTABRIAN ANCHOVIES A favourite with chefs, these clean, salt-forward bites are a great all-rounder anchovy to keep in the pantry for entertaining. Olasagasti (in their words, “hard to say but easy to eat”) anchovies would go beautifully atop oxheart tomatoes with a crack of pepper or served in a classic Caesar salad. $12 for 48gm, pnvmerchants.com 4. PUJADÓ SOLANO ANCHOVY FILLETS These plump, well salted anchovies have beautifully textured fillets. Balancing saltiness with a full-bodied umami flavour results in one of the best anchovies to eat on its own. A sublime example of why anchovies are the perfect summer snack. $12.50 for 50gm, gourmetlife.com.au 1 2 3 4 5 G T T E AM FAVO U R I T E GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 31 F i v e o f a k i n d WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.

The Barty party continues off the court, as the tennis champion speaks about travel, desserts and the joy of a simpler life. I’ll be returning to the Australian Open in January, this time not as a player. Without a doubt it will feel strange. The whole lead-up to the Australian Open: December, Christmas, the start of January. Usually I’m in my own bubble, where there’s so much desire and want. You’re thinking, “Is it my year? Is it time?”. This year, I won’t have that super intense preseason. I’m excited because it allows me to enjoy it in a different way – it doesn’t make it any better or worse, it’s just different. I’m excited to enjoy it as a spectator and fan. Before, I never went up and went outside – it was always through the tunnels, practice court, locker room, car, home. I’ve spent a lot of time in Melbourne without really experiencing the city. I’m excited to explore the restaurants, nightlife and culture more. When you’re competing, it’s very structured, very simple, home-cooked food. Now it’s time to enjoy it with my friends and family, and get more of an experience. You can feel the city come alive with sport – whether it’s the AFL or tennis. ASH BARTY A QUIC K WORD WITH

In my suitcase there’s always Vegemite – that’s my taste of home. When I was homesick, the easiest go-to was Vegemite on toast for brekkie, or Vegemite and avocado. My other travel essential is a second phone, so I can always keep my Australian number connected. It’s how I make sure I am connecting with the people I love the most, no matter what the time difference is. When I reach a destination I always have to hunt down a local coffee shop. If I find a good shop, that’s my local, forever. Every time I go back to Birmingham in the United Kingdom, it’s Faculty Coffee. In Melbourne, I go to The Pound off Chapel Street. It’s a level of comfort and it’s great to explore the city in that way. Going for a walk and getting a coffee is almost like meditation for me, so I continue that routine no matter where I am in the world. My coffee order depends on where I am. In Australia, I like strong coffee, not too much milk. I’ll often have a double skinny latte. Typically I have three coffees a day. When I’m in the USA, I drink long blacks. When I’m in Europe, I love espresso. One of my favourite places in the world is a little gelato bar in Rome. In the morning it’s filled with people on their morning commute grabbing their espresso. Walk, grab it at the bar, bang. I’d go in the morning before I went to training, then go for another coffee in the afternoon. After dinner, I’d often pop back for a little gelato. Stracciatella is always my go-to when in Rome. And affogatos. Oh, happy days. Overall, I love Italian food. I’ve been fortunate enough to eat a lot of authentic Italian food. When I first went to India, it was an incredible experience. I was only 15 at the time – and it was a cultural shock – there was a lot I didn’t understand. But I knew it was different. Going to see the Taj Mahal was one of the most spectacular days of my life. Being able to absorb it, what it stood for, the reactions of the people around. It was exceptional. It’s no secret jetlag is hard. We became accustomed to doing long-haul flights every other week. Looking back now it was strange. For me, combatting jetlag is about getting out in the sunshine and getting some vitamin D. It’s also not stressing or being too concerned if I didn’t instantly get sleep on the first night or second night. My body is always going to catch up, and recover. Be kind to your body, refuel and recharge, enjoy the sun, get out and be active. As an Indigenous woman, there’s an incredible sense of belonging and a special connection to the land. When you’re able to visit Country that’s your tribe, there’s almost a magnetic pull that brings you back. It’s a beautiful thing to know there are so many Australians that still have that real passion and connection to wanting to learn. Continuing that conversation is crucial. The biggest reassurance I’ve had after retiring from tennis, is that it was the right decision. There hasn’t been a moment where I’ve doubted it, and that’s been a massive positive. I thought it was the right time. But now I really know it was. I get to learn new things; try different things. Something very simple, but it was just nice to even spend a winter back in Australia. It’s been a long time since I’ve done that. I’ve had the time to really invest and spend time with my nieces and nephews, sisters, Mum and Dad and my husband. We’ve kept things simple – nothing fancy. We live a very simple life – we’re fortunate enough to live close together. I’m really grateful for that, and that I really have absolutely everything I need.  Barty is the Marriott Bonvoy ambassador for the 2023 Summer of Tennis. Visit marriott.com/loyalty.mi Going for a walk and getting a coffee is almost like meditation for me, so I continue that routine no matter where I am in the world. PHOTOGRAPHY CHLOE PAUL. GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 33 M e m o ri e s

Love it or hate it,this annual plantis versatile with edible seeds, leaves and roots, writes SIMON RICKARD. Coriander THE KITCHEN GARDENER You either love coriander, or hate it. The first time I tasted coriander leaves, I thought they tasted like crushed insects. It turns out I wasn’t the first person to think this, as “coriander” derives from the Greek word “koris”, meaning a bed bug. Coriander is an essential flavour in cuisines from around the world, from Europe and the Middle East, to Asia and Latin America. Surely the majority of humanity couldn’t be wrong about this herb being delicious. Some people appear to have a genetic predisposition to disliking coriander, but I was not convinced I was one of them. Perhaps I just needed more practice. The more I ate coriander, the more I came to enjoy its unique, zingy flavour. Nowadays I’m quite addicted to it. Coriander originated in Southern Europe and Southwest Asia. The Greeks first grew it from the second millennium BCE, using it not only in food but in perfumery. By 1550 BCE it had spread to Egypt, where it was considered sufficiently important to be put into Tutankhamun’s tomb in around 1300 BCE. From India it made its way to east Asia, and the Europeans later spread it to their colonies around the world. Many of us probably first encountered coriander seed without even realising, perhaps in the form of egg sandwiches flavoured with Keen’s Curry Powder, or in that most British of foods, baked beans. If you’ve ever made your own baked beans and wondered why they don’t taste like the canned version, try adding ILLUSTRATION ADOBE STOCK IMAGES.

To prevent your coriander from bolting, sow the seeds directly where you want the plants to grow. Simon is a professional gardener, author and baroque bassoonist. @simon_rickard some ground coriander seed. Gin, too, is flavoured with coriander seed, as are many European small goods, such as ham. Perhaps coriander seed isn’t as exotic as we thought. Coriander leaf came to our shores much later, used sparingly as a garnish for Chinese cuisine, hence its other name, Chinese parsley. Once we became more accustomed coriander leaves’ peculiar tang, we came to love it in Indian chutneys, Mexican salsas and Peruvian ceviches, and big, herby, Levantine salads. These days, we might even eat three forms of this versatile herb – the seeds, leaves and the tender, fragrant roots – in a single Thai meal. Coriander is easy to grow at home, but there are a couple of important tricks to know. Have you ever had the experience of planting coriander seedlings in spring, and watching them bolt immediately to seed without making a single leaf? This happens because coriander is an annual plant. It is programmed to grow as big a rosette of foliage as it can using the water and nutrients available to it, and then flower, set seed, and die. Coriander goes to seed very quickly if it senses any environmental stresses, which gardeners refer to as “checks in growth”. These can include root disturbance (for example, when you transplant seedlings into the ground from a punnet), sudden drought (for example, when your plant dries out when you go away for the long weekend), and especially the lengthening spring days, which tell the plant that summer heat and drought is on the way. To prevent your coriander from bolting, sow the seeds directly where you want the plants to grow. Thin seedlings to 15 centimetres apart. Make sure the soil is richly composted, mulched, and that your plants are kept constantly moist. If you sow as the days begin to shorten in late summer, your coriander plants will grow right through until the following spring. Keep it growing steadily, avoiding any checks in growth, and it will provide you with masses of fresh foliage for salads and sauces, and a copious crop of spicy seeds for cooking.  GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 35 G r o w y o u r o w n

Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we meet constitutional lawyer, Professor Megan Davis. PROF E S SOR MEGAN DAVI S The colours of Uluru are ever changing. Over the course of a single day, the rock goes from a rusty gold to bright red and a deep maroon at sundown. To the Anangu people – the traditional owners of the land – Uluru is more than a rock; it’s a living, breathing landscape. It’s here, in the warm glow of the afternoon, where Professor Megan Davis gave the very first reading of the Uluru Statement from the Heart in 2017 at the First Nations National Constitutional Convention. In May last year, I met Professor Megan Davis at a First Nations gathering and exhibition in Sydney. Megan spoke about The Uluru Statement from the Heart with such clarity, wisdom and generosity that her words and energy touched me deeply. In her words, “First Nations people simply want a seat at the table, we’ve never had a seat at the table. Despite more than 60,000 years of speaking, we still have no Voice to Parliament.” Lucky and I can’t wait to vote “yes”, because it’s very clear that a Voice is good for all Australians and will create a better future for everyone. 36 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER

The decisions made by the government had an impact on my mum. That’s where my interest in inequality comes from. “We’d been up until 4am the night before, writing the Statement, so it’s a bit of a blur but reading the Statement out for the first time was obviously a huge privilege. It was very emotional, people were clapping and crying,” says Professor Davis, a Cobble Cobble woman. “[Until then] there had been 10 years in the wilderness in terms of any substantive recognition of Indigenous peoples, so everyone being together in contemplation of that was a significant thing. It felt like a very special gathering.” The gathering was the result of years of work and consultation with more than 1200 Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander representatives in a dozen regional dialogues across the country. The conference brought together 250 Indigenous leaders, traditional owners, grannies and kids to write the Uluru Statement, a solid plan outlining the path forward towards recognising First Nations peoples in the constitution. It calls for “Voice, Treaty and Truth”. The first principle, Voice, will take the form of an advisory body of First Nations peoples to the Parliament. Professor Davis, who grew up in a “small housing commission home with a large number of us living there” in the Queensland suburb of Eagleby, knows what it’s like to feel voiceless. “I grew up in the underclass. We were very poor, which is something that always stays with you,” she says, explaining her motivation to fight for a better future for the next generation. “My mum was an English teacher and she encouraged robust conversations about democracy and politics. We had to have awareness about those things, because the decisions made by the government had an impact on my mum and her capacity to care for us. That’s where my interest in inequality comes from; I’m motivated to have our peoples’ voices heard.” For 12 years, Professor Davis, 47, has worked on the Voice. Along the way, there have been challenges, brick walls and miles of red tape, but there have also been wins. During Prime Minister Anthony Albanese’s election night victory speech in May, he committed to the Uluru Statement in full. “I watched the speech with my sister on FaceTime and we were bawling. It was a big deal for the Prime Minister to say yes to the Statement,” remembers Professor Davis, of the giant step towards a national referendum on the matter. Having been a constitutional lawyer for 22 years and an expert member of the UN permanent forum on Indigenous issues since 2010, Professor Davis has seen how policy can have real-world impacts on communities. Introducing the Voice will be so much more than a symbolic act of recognition, it will be a practical way to address closing the gap between Indigenous and nonIndigenous people. “The reason we’re not closing the gap and why we’re spending $30 billion a year on Aboriginal Affairs and seeing no change is simple; it’s because Aboriginal people aren’t at the table. Currently, our lives are dominated by mostly non-Indigenous bureaucrats who don’t live in communities,” says Professor Davis, echoing the age-old rally cry, “Nothing about us, without us. Changing laws changes things.”  GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 37 WORDS ALLEY PASCOE (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY MARK POKORNY (KWONG) & HUGH STEWART (DAVIS).

Samantha is a sommelier, writer and wine consultant. @sl_payne SAMANTHA PAYNE takes a closer took atthe riesling region that revolutionised the wayAustralians drink wine. Clare Valley SOUTH AUSTRALIA Clare Valley is widely regarded as the home of Australia’s best riesling. And there’s no shortage of it. Measuring in at 5093 hectares of vineyards, Clare Valley is larger than the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Tasmania’s vineyards combined. Much of the credit belongs to the weather (or more specifically the diurnal temperature variation that sees warm days for ripening fruit combine with cool nights to capture acidity when grapes are sleeping). And yet, the true origin story for the country’s zippiest whites can be traced to a night at the local pub in 2000 when 14 Clare Valley winemakers met to plot the great cork-toscrew revolution. It had been attempted before. In 1968 Stelvin screw top closures were trialled at Pewsey Vale, which were notoriously badly received. It wasn’t until the Clare Valley winemakers put their premium rieslings under screw caps that the wine-drinking public came to the party, without their corkscrews. “Globally, this was the first time a region has come together to champion change in a premium product,” Mitchell Taylor from Taylors Wines explains.

A TASTE OF CLARE VALLEY CLARE VALLEY 2022 Pikes The Merle Riesling, $55 Showcasing the best parcels of fruit from its Polish Hill River site, The Merle is abundant in lime from the peel to the juice. Hints of green apple and saline minerality bring length to the palate. pikeswines.com.au 2022 Rieslingfreak No.5 Off Dry Riesling, $27 Off dry rieslings are no longer the saccharine wines of the ’80s. The 2022 vintage has natural acidity, creating the perfect environment for a balanced and complex style. Winning multiple awards for his rieslings, John Hughes has said this vintage of No.5 is “the best he’s ever made”. Our summer drink. rieslingfreak.com 2012 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Museum Release Riesling, $45 Perfumed jasmine alongside waxy chamomile notes are prominent in this aged museum release riesling. The savoury expression that weaves its way through the palate shows the diversity of styles produced from the northern end of the Clare Valley. Sam Barry says 2012 is “one of the best vintages in the past couple of decades”. jimbarry.com 2022 Adelina Watervale Riesling, $28 Adelina’s Watervale riesling comes from two separate blocks of fruit, both of which were initially used for some of the legendary Leo Buring rieslings of the 1970s. The wine today is no less delicious, with pink grapefruit exploding out of the glass with lemon peel and makrut lime. adelina.com.au 2022 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling, $30 While O’Leary Walker makes beautifully aged rieslings, the foundation has to come from somewhere and we see this In the current release. Floral notes meet lime sorbet. The tightly wound core of acidity brings freshness to the aromatics. olearywalkerwines.com Of course revolution begins with turmoil and the push for this particular rebellion came as cork quality declined. Old data used at the time showed more than five per cent of all cork coming into Australia had some kind of fault – think of that as one bottle out of every dozen. So when the majority of Clare Valley producers shifted away from cork in 2000, the stragglers were converted within 12 months. With freshness and quality control all but assured, Clare Valley producers then had the freedom to innovate and, in that spirit, have spent the past two decades diversifying the styles of riesling the Clare Valley produces. Sam Barry, third generation at Jim Barry Wines (alongside his winemaking brother Tom), clarifies: “You need to keep evolving. We’ve done this with riesling by creating a style that draws people in but also playing around with styles to keep people drinking it.” Barry has witnessed much change in Clare Valley riesling throughout the generations. “Even just 15 to 20 years ago it was that very bone-dry, high acid, almost abrasive style. That made-to-cellar style no longer excites people – they want more fruit profile with an emphasis on drinkability.” And with Clare Valley having no shortage of natural acidity to create a framework for the fruit to work cohesively with, they’re now producing the best rieslings we’ve seen coming out of the region. Barry explains that the riesling revival is a similar story to Australian chardonnay, how the pendulum swung from richer to anaemic styles to now producing wines with excellent fruit expressions but balanced with acidity. “We’re picking on flavour, not just acidity, leaving a little more residual sugar. Even just two to three grams makes a huge difference in the mouthfeel of the wine.” “We don’t want to plod along doing what we’ve been doing in the past. We’re about to release wines from 2013, which we’ve never released before after 10 years of cellaring in the winery.” Viva la riesling revolution.  The Ngadjuri people are the traditional owners of the lands we now call the Clare Valley. In their language, “Ngadjuri” means “we people”. They are also known as the “peppermint gum people”, a reference to the remnants of peppermint box (Eucalyptus Odorata) found throughout the region and vineyards. Port Wakefeild Lochiel Saddleworth Brinkworth Auburn Clare Valley GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 39 W i n e c o u n tr y PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

For weekly cocktail inspiration, follow us on Instagram @gourmettraveller SIESTA Great cocktails hinge on bringing divergent flavours into perfect balance. That becomes an especially tall order when the flavours in question are Campari’s bracing bitterness, the tartness of grapefruit and lime, and tequila’s unmistakeable vegetal sweetness. It’s a peculiar combination, but the Siesta gets it right. Now widely considered a modern classic, the drink was developed in 2006 by New York bartender Katie Stipe as a spin on the Hemingway Daiquiri. It wasn’t until some years later that it gained widespread attention, becoming one of a handful of cocktails used in Speed Rack – a high-speed, all-female bartending competition designed to raise money to combat breast cancer. “The first time I made the drink was actually during the Speed Rack Australia national final in 2018, and it’s been on my radar ever since,” says Emma Crisp, group beverage manager for the Sans Pants Group in Western Australia. At El Grotto, the group’s beachside taqueria and tequila bar in Scarborough, Crisp swaps unaged tequila for reposado, which adds an additional layer of complexity. “The trick is to use a very lightly aged reposado rather than a heavily oaked one,” she says. For a drink named after a nap, there’s nothing sleepy about it. 3 Arette Reposado Tequila A smart pick for cocktails, Arette’s reposado spends nearly six months in old American whiskey casks and marries sweet vanilla with peppery kick. $90 for 700ml topshelftequila.com.au Fortaleza Reposado Tequila An intricate web of flavours – stewed agave, sweet spice, butterscotch and brine – plus a soft, waxy mouthfeel make this tequila a perennial favourite. $160 for 750ml danmurphys.com.au Cascahuín Reposado Tequila There’s lots to like from the traditional approach taken by the fourth-generation family production to the balanced palate and lengthy finish. $116 for 750ml winonawine.com T H R E E T E Q U I L A S TO T R Y El Grotto’s Siesta To make simple syrup, combine an equal quantity of sugar and water in a saucepan, simmer and stir until sugar completely dissolves. Chill a coupe glass. In a cocktail shaker, combine 45ml reposado tequila, 15ml Campari, 15ml freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice, 15ml freshly squeezed lime juice and 10ml sugar syrup. Fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously until well chilled. Double strain into the coupe and garnish with a grapefruit wheel. 40 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER C o c k t a i l h o u r WORDS MATTY HIRSCH. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.

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This month, we visit a Nordic diner in Melbourne, a Mexican cantina in Noosaville, and a Thai delight in Sydney. Dining out p42 Freyja PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

Bandita’s freewheeling wood-fired take on Mexican is a breezy crowd-pleaser, writes FIONA DONNELLY. There’s a snowy line of salt crystals encircling the rim of my Margarita glass but out beyond the big foldback windows the evening is balmy, a sinking sun daubing the brimming Noosa River with ribbons of orange and gold. On Bandita’s undercover deck, diners lounge on stylish timber-and-rope couches and organise another round of sundowners, relishing the last of the rays. It’s hard to imagine a setting that’s less like the one where I last saw the handiwork of Jason Jones, Bandita’s chef-owner. That was more than |a decade ago at Melbourne’s cult-hit Mamasita, where queues besieged the stairwell and diners were crammed in closer than chargrilled corn kernels. Jones has been keeping busy in the interim, including a stint in Singapore as culinary director of Super Loco. His first Queensland project, Bandita opened in Noosaville in June. It’s almost a full house when I visit and the flexible interiors take cues from the views. It’s relaxed and beachy, with terracotta tiling, timber tables, white walls and soaring ceilings. There’s a banquette on a side wall and a big communal table by the open kitchen. The couches on the deck, overlooking the water, are reserved for walk-ins, but you can ask to swap when you arrive. Bandita T-shirt-clad staff bring corn chips to our table in a brown bag along with a guacamole that is zingy with lime. There’s textural contrast and just a suggestion of coriander and tomato. Salsa roja sits alongside. It’s made with local Noosa Red tomatoes, oak-smoked and seasoned with chipotle, brightened with a whack of lime. Elotes, the street-style corn snack arrive next. These are juicy, with a coat of spice, chipotle mayo and aged Oaxaca cheese. Jones isn’t pushing boundaries at Bandita but everything is fresh and good local producers are dotted through the mix. A crisp tostada comes out loaded with sikil pak, the earthy, crunchy Yucatan dip made from roasted pumpkin seeds. The dip is blobbed with a soured cream from Sunshine Coast’s Maleny Dairies. The menu promises tomatillos. But while there’s a crisp garnish of radish slivers, I can’t discern any tomatillo acidity. The crudo yellowfin tuna tostada is better balanced – it’s the same golden disc, topped with three triangles of sashimi-grade fish, whipped avocado and green chilli. Fermented chilli soy brings a light buzz and saltiness. Next, strands of pulled pork shoulder fill a soft tortilla that’s amped up with pickled veggies and chilli and crisp, light chicharrones. It’s the star of the night, the contrasting textures, snap of the crackling and brightness of the pickles helping everything to sing. The wood-fire grill gets a workout in the mains section, with seven barbecue options including Mooloolaba prawns, and hanger steak rubbed with porcini and ancho. The reef fish is local snapper slathered with a Veracruz sauce of olives, capers and herbs. For $16 you can add a DIY taco kit – think corn tortillas and chipotle yoghurt, slaw and pickled veggies. It’s the sort of lick-your-fingers post-beach eating, accompanied by a Margarita or two, that chimes well with the holiday mood and suits groups. It should keep Bandita busy over summer and beyond.  BANDITA Clockwise from left: a Mexican-inspired spread at Bandita; the dining room. 3/271 Gympie Tce, Noosaville, Qld bandita.com.au CHEF Jason Jones OPENING HOURS Lunch Thu-Mon; Dinner Mon, Thu-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended. VERDICT Effortless coastal dining. Q U I C K LO O K Noosaville, Qld GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 43 Re v i e w PHOTOGRAPHY AMY WEAVELL.

FREYJA Freyja can read like a cautionary tale, one where too many elements jostle for space. For starters there’s the presence of head chef Jae Bang, the Korean-born alumnus of Michelin-starred restaurants like Norway’s new-Scandi Re-naa, Spain’s nuevo-Basque Arzak and New York’s classic French Restaurant Daniel. Then there’s Bang’s ideas of transplanting Nordic ideas of hyper-local sourcing, waste minimisation and fermentation and pickling to a Melbourne context. There’s a lot of ideas, cultures and cuisines in the air and it could have gone terribly wrong, but for the fact that Bang is an excellent chef not interested in sacrificing deliciousness for cleverness. For the simplest example of his approach at Freyja Bursting with Nordic culinary ideas,this clever diner always delivers flavour, writes MICHAEL HARDEN. please refer to exhibit A: a side dish of fermented and fried potatoes. Like many of the dishes (on both à la carte and eight-course tasting menus), there’s more work here than meets the eye. These potatoes are par-cooked, then salt brined for around a week which kick-starts a fermentation process. It also pulls moisture out of the potato so after being partially smashed then deep fried, they emerge, dreamily crisp and simply, saltily flavoursome. You’d pop in here for those alone if Freyja was not also offering a bunch of equally satisfying flavour combinations. Superb radishes, left whole with (edible) leaves intact, are teamed with a deep green umamiladen mussel and parsley puree. Equally prize-worthy asparagus spears are teamed with onions, mushroom broth, and topped with brightly flavoured sorrel leaves. Dry-aged koji-brined duck, slow-cooked above the wood grill, moves towards Melbourne’s Best territory. Signature Freyja waffles, made the old-fashioned way in a waffle iron over coal and accompanied by smoked sour cream, chives and trout roe check every box. This all happens in a room with a pared-back, clean-lined, timberforward Scandi appeal, that sidesteps sterility via textured elements like raw brick and marble, some borderline disturbing Matthew Gillett artwork and a slatted wood ceiling feature that echoes the Gothic-style arched front windows of the 1880s Olderfleet building that Freyja calls home. A seven-seat chef’s counter offers a view of what is one of Melbourne’s calmest and most ordered kitchens. Very satisfying. Check out the cocktail list. There’s an appealingly dark and herbal lean to many of the combinations (Davidson plum and native amaro, for example) that’s more compelling than the serviceable but not particularly interesting (particularly in the context of the food) wine offer. Barely sweet, beautifully textured apple and rhubarb desserts, raw kingfish teamed with a blackcurrant wood-infused oil; the ideas go on and on at Freyja. But they always bring the flavour with them.  477 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic freyjarestaurant.com CHEF Jae Bang OPENING HOURS Lunch Tue-Fri, Dinner Tue-Sat PRICE $$$ BOOKINGS Recommended. VERDICT A forwardthinking melting pot of ideasthat never neglectsflavour. Q U I C K LO O K Melbourne, Vic The dining room at Freyja. Right: duck with endive, mostarda, finger lime and coriander seeds. 44 GOU R M ET TRAVEL LER Re v i e w PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

Areverence forThai flavours is turning heads atthis family-run Haymarketjoint, writes MATTY HIRSCH. PORKFAT First, some bad news. Porkfat, as the name might suggest, is hardly a refuge for plant-based diners. For now, there’s just one vegetarian option: a very good if not exactly groundbreaking stir-fry of Chinese broccoli and meaty shiitake mushrooms, zapped with white pepper and lots of fried garlic. (If you count the sole dessert – excellent house-made coconut ice-cream with your radar. Another is the fact that there’s no coolroom, which means the kitchen’s handiwork is dictated by what arrives fresh from the market. The real draw, however, is a menu of merely 12 items bound not by style or region but mostly instead by the use of pork fat. There are nuggets of it buried in Kulasai’s signature offering, a glassy tangle of baked vermicelli noodles steeped in oyster sauce and ground spices shipping a duo of plump Queensland tiger prawns. You’ll sense its presence, too, in a steamed coral trout fillet that’s almost angelic in its purity, moored in a sesame-fragrant broth that finds a curious but compelling counterpart in pickled plums. While lard does well to enhance both the taste and texture of other ingredients, the dishes without it sing just as loudly, maybe even an octave higher. Green curry is a contender for the city’s best, luxuriously thick and oily, with pork jowl grilled to a glorious tenderness, juicy lychees and no shortage of makrut lime. Better still might be the coconut-rich, turmeric-stained Phuket curry of tiger prawns charged with the creeping heat of black pepper. In so many respects, this is among the most impressive Thai offerings Sydney has seen in several years, right down to the hand-painted crockery which comes from an ancient village in the northern province of Chiang Rai. Perhaps the only forgettable element is the scant wine list, but even that turns out to be a blessing. The cooking cries out for perfumy gewürztraminer or hedonistic riesling, and with BYO corkage set at $10 per bottle, you can (and should) bring both. Bring company, too, you trust will be on time and hungry. That way, you’ll be able to stay as long as you can – and try everything.  palm seeds and candied pumpkin – then there are two.) Those interested in a spontaneous or leisurely meal should also consider other plans. The tastefully spare split-level room has only 30 seats, so bookings are a necessity. What’s more, they’re capped at 90 minutes and enforced with a politeness so sincere it borders on heartbreaking. “We wish you could stay longer,” our server said as we sat down, “so that you could try everything.” The good news is you’re likely to leave wishing the same. Porkfat is Thai-born chef Narin “Jack” Kulasai’s first crack at a restaurant as chef-owner (together with partner Tanya Boonprakong), having spent most of his career working for the legendary David Thompson, first at Nahm in Bangkok and more recently at the Sydney branch of Long Chim. Those credentials alone are but one reason why the place deserves a spot on Sydney, NSW Left: a spread at Porkfat. Below: chef Narin Kulasai on the pass. Shop 2, 79 Quay St, Haymarket, NSW porkfat.com.au CHEF Narin Kulasai OPENING HOURS Lunch and dinner Tue-Sun PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Essential. VERDICT Focused and finessed Thai cooking with pedigree. Q U I C K LO O K PHOTOGRAPHY LEIGH GRIFFITHS.

Q U I C K LO O K 34 Mont Rosa Rd, Hindmarsh Valley, SA lostphoenixfarm.com.au CHEF Bridget Corber OPENING HOURS Lunch Wed-Sun PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended. VERDICT Destination dining with a side of whisky.

Hindmarsh Valley, SA Come for the pastoral eye candy and linger for a long lunch atthis coolfarmhouse, writes KATIE SPAIN. LOST PHOENIX FARM The road from Adelaide to the coastal town of Victor Harbor is framed by rolling green hills dotted with sheep, bovines and towering gum trees. It is undeniably evocative and when chefs Andre Ursini and Will Doak passed Hindmarsh Valley, they saw potential. The hour-long drive from the CBD is packed with pastoral eye candy but beyond the McLaren Vale wine region, the area begged for a picturesque long lunch option. Cue Lost Phoenix Farm, a joint venture between Ursini (Andre’s Cucina, now closed, Orso restaurant and Villetta Porcini) and Doak (formerly Press Food & Wine, Orso and Fugazzi,) which aims to bring “cool, easy-going” vibes (Doak’s words) to the countryside location. While laid-back as planned, there’s thoughtfulness behind the layout, décor and service. The building itself (all white) was an old dairy and a farmer’s market during the 1950s. In the decades that followed, the space was used as a winery and tasting room. The farm energy remains, only now the fit-out includes a new bar and kitchen, a wall of vintage mirrors, a smattering of tables and Bentwood chairs, and a ceiling strung with wooden ladders and indoor plants. Bi-fold doors lead to a large terrace where a local DJ can often be found delivering an ambient backdrop of tunes that hit all the right notes and just the right volume to let conversation rule. Outside, picnic-table-style seating for larger events and sunny weekend gatherings. On the plate, it’s a mix between comfort food bangers and fresh flavours such as smashed cucumber salad with melon de sapo (more “chunky” than pulverised) and a Lost Phoenix Gin and rosemary dressing drizzled with dill oil. It’s the kind of dish that blows cobwebs away. If only they did a Bloody Mary to accompany it. On the comfort front, there’s Cuca anchovy fingers (salty, fishy slivers kicking back with fermented cucumber on pillows of parmesan custard and crunchy bread). It is utterly decadent, a little bit messy and ultimately fun. Large plates, of which there are five, range from half a peri peri glazed organic chicken, to locally source braised Fleurieu lamb shoulder, and a whole roast lemon sole of stand out depth and flavour. The beurre noisette demands a serve of bread with which to mop every last buttery drop. The fried curry leaf and crunchy capers are a nice touch. On the drinks front, there’s beer, Champagne and (mostly) South Australian wines, and a lovely offering of non-alcoholic beverages. Spirits fans are the real winners here. Not only is there a list devoted to beverages of the nippable kind, the rustic Cut Hill Distillery is just 10 metres away. Round off a lazy lunch with a tasting for a rural afternoon done right.  Clockwise from left: the dining room at Lost Phoenix Farm; smashed cucumbers, melon de sapo, gin and rosemary, dill oil. Opposite: the restaurant’s all-white exterior. GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 47 Re v i e w PHOTOGRAPHY JOSH GEELEN.

Scan to discover your species Australian Wild Prawns australianwildprawns.com.au You get more with Taste The Wild Just like wine has terroir, the taste of the environment in the grape, so too every Australian Wild Prawn has merroir, the taste of the wild ocean and rugged, remote place of origin. Meet the hardworking people who catch your Australian Wild Prawns and discover the region and species right for your style of cooking.

Photography JOHN PAUL URIZAR Styling STEVE PEARCE Recipes JESSICA BROOK VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE J A N U A R Y From easy-to-prepare dishes for entertaining to simple suppers,these everyday recipes keep things fast and fresh. DAIRY FREE GOUR M ET TRAVEL LER 49

Charred chicken wings in hot ancho and honey SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS SOAKING, PICKLING) 1 dried ancho chilli, coarsely torn (see note) 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted 1 tsp sweet paprika 175 gm honey, plus extra honey for brushing 125 ml (½ cup) red wine vinegar 1.2 kg chicken wingettes Vegetable oil, for brushing 500 gm watermelon, peeled, cut into rough 2cm pieces 1 small red onion, thinly sliced Micro coriander, to serve 1 Place ancho chilli in a small heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and set aside to soften (15 minutes). Drain water, reserving ¼ cup. Place chilli, reserved water, garlic, 1 tsp coriander seeds, paprika, 115gm honey and 1 tbsp vinegar in a small blender and blend until smooth; season to taste. 2 Place chicken in a large bowl. Add 2 tbsp honey marinade, season to taste and toss to coat; marinate (10 minutes). 3 For pickled watermelon, combine 1 tbsp sea salt flakes, remaining vinegar, coriander seeds and honey with 80ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve honey (2 minutes). Place watermelon and onion in a heatproof bowl. Pour over pickling liquid; refrigerate until cold. 4 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or char-grill pan over medium heat. Thread chicken onto 10-12 metal skewers. Lightly brush with oil. Cook, basting frequently with remaining marinade, turning frequently, until charred and cooked through (10-12 minutes). 5 Serve skewers brushed with extra honey and serve with pickled watermelon scattered with micro coriander. Note Ancho chillies are available from spice shops, specialty food shops and Mexican food stores. SWAP IT OUT Ancho chillies are a smoky, dried poblano pepper, that have a well-balanced, fruity heat. If you can’t find whole ancho chillies, substitute any other dried, whole chilli. E v e r y d a y Ceramics from Alex and Trahanas used throughout. All other props stylist’s own.