Story Transcript
Plan Your Trip
1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Barcelona “ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Regis St Louis, Sally Davies, Andy Symington
Contents Plan PlanYour YourTrip Trip page 1
4
Welcome to Barcelona....4
If You Like....................... 20
Eating............................ 33
Barcelona’s Top 10...........6
Month by Month............ 23
Drinking & Nightlife... 39
What’s New.....................13
With Kids........................ 26
Need to Know.................14
Like a Local.................... 28
Gay & Lesbian Barcelona......................43
First Time Barcelona.....16
For Free.......................... 30
Top Itineraries................18
Guided Tours & Walks............................ 31
Explore Barcelona
Entertainment.............45 Shopping.......................48
52
Neighbourhoods at a Glance.................... 54
Barceloneta & the Waterfront............. 109
Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni........ 177
La Rambla & Barri Gòtic.................. 56
La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample.................122
Day Trips from Barcelona.....................195
El Raval........................... 79
Gràcia & Park Güell......154 Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta..............165
Sleeping......................209
La Ribera........................ 92
Understand Barcelona
221
Barcelona Today..........222
Catalan Culture............235
Picasso, Miró & Dalí.....242
History...........................224
Architecture..................237
Music & Dance............. 244
Survival Guide
247
Transport.................... 248
Language.....................257
Directory A–Z..............252
Index............................ 266
Barcelona Maps
274
GUY MOBERLY/GETTY IMAGES ©
ALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) Plaça Reial (p66)
(right) Seafood paella
Gràcia & Park Güell (p154) Barceloneta & the Waterfront (p109)
Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta (p165) La Sagrada Família La Ribera & L'Eixample (p92) (p122) La Rambla & Barri Gòtic (p56) El Raval (p79) Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni (p177)
KKONG5/GETTY IMAGES ©
(above) Festes de la Mercè (p25)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Top Itineraries Day One
Day Two
La Rambla & Barri Gòtic (p56)
L’Eixample (p122)
M
On day one spend the morning ex ploring the narrow medieval lanes of the Barri Gòtic. Have a peek inside La Catedral – not missing its geese-filled cloister – and stroll through the picturesque squares of Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol and Placa Reial. Discover Barcelona’s ancient roots in the fascinating Museu d’Història de Barcelona. Before lunch have a wander down La Rambla to take in the passing people parade. Lunch Cafè de l’Acadèmia (p73) serves outstanding Catalan fare.
La Ribera (p92) In the afternoon, wander over to La
R Ribera, which is packed with archi
tectural treasures. Take a look inside the majestic Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar. At the Museu Picasso, beautifully set inside conjoined medieval mansions, you can spend a few hours taking in the early works of one of the great artists of the 20th century. Dinner Elbow your way up to the bar for gourmet tapas at Cal Pep (p103).
La Ribera (p92) Before having a late dinner (as is
N the custom in Spain), catch a show
inside the Palau de la Música Catalana, one of the great Modernista masterpieces of Barcelona. Afterwards end the night with drinks at El Xampanyet.
day two start with a morning M On visit to La Sagrada Família, Gaudi’s wondrous work in progress. It’s worth pay ing a little extra for a guided tour (or audio guide) for a deeper understanding of Bar celona’s most famous sight. Lunch The fabulous Cinc Sentits (p136) serves up creative perfection.
L’Eixample (p122) After lunch, explore more of the great
R Modernista buildings by taking a
stroll down L’Eixample’s Passeig de Gràcia. Have a look at the three most famous buildings that make up the Manzana de la Discordia. Then visit one of Gaudí’s house museums on the street – either Casa Batlló or La Pedrera further up the avenue. Dinner Enjoy excellent wines and tasty sharing plates at Viblioteca (p162).
Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta (p165) In the evening catch a football match
N at Camp Nou, the home of the top-
ranked FC Barcelona. Amid the roar of the crowds, prepare for a serious adrenalin rush, especially if Barça is playing archrivals Real Madrid. Afterwards head back to L’Eixample for a drink at the classy Les Gens Que J’Aime before moving on to the big beats at City Hall.
19
Day Four
Barceloneta & the Waterfront (p109)
Montjuïc (p177)
your third day in Barcelona it’s M On time to take in the lovely Mediter
ranean. Start the morning with a stroll, jog or a bike ride along the waterfront. Beach-facing restaurants and cafes provide refreshment along the way. Lunch Join seafood-loving locals at always-buzzing Can Maño (p117).
Barceloneta & the Waterfront (p109) Stroll through Barceloneta, stop ping for a peek inside the Mercat de la Barceloneta. Afterwards visit the Museu d’Història de Catalunya and
R
the day with a scenic cable car M Start ride up to Montjuïc, followed by a stroll past flower and sculpture gardens to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC). Take in the magnificent Roman esque frescos, vivid Gothic paintings and works by 17th-century Spanish masters. Lunch O’Gràcia! (p161) is a charming neighbourhood spot for Catalan fare.
Gràcia (p154) After getting a taste of Montjuïc,
R hop on the metro up to Gràcia and wander through its enchanting villagelike streets. Cafes, bookshops and vintage shops all make for some worthwhile ex
Dinner La Vinateria del Call (p73) has a magical medieval setting.
Dinner Feast on beautifully prepared Catalan dishes at Suculent (p87).
peel back the centuries on an interactive journey into Catalan history.
ploring. The bars surrounding its plazas come to life around sundown.
La Rambla & Barri Gòtic (p56)
El Raval (p79)
At night catch a live band inside the Gothic quarter. Harlem Jazz Club and Jamboree are good bets for jazz and world music. If you still have energy, check out a few bars in the neighbourhood, including Ocaña, which has a beautiful setting on Plaça Reial.
N celona in El Raval. Browse record
N
Take in the bohemian side of Bar
shops and vintage stores, enjoy a live band at the Jazz Sí Club, or watch an indie feature at the Filmoteca de Catalunya. Finish the night over a few housemade vermouths at La Confitería, or at dance favourite Moog for something livelier.
PL AN YOUR TRIP Top I ti n e r a r ies
Day Three
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Barcelona Maps Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight
Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity
Sleeping Sleeping Camping
Eating Eating
Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe
Entertainment Entertainment
Shopping Shopping
Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information
Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall
Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village
Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/Railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall
Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef
Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove
11 Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni (p302)
10 La Zona Alta East (p300)
9 La Zona Alta (p298)
8 Gràcia (p296)
7 La Dreta de L’Eixample (p294)
6 L’Esquerra de L’Eixample (p290)
5 Port Olímpic, El Poblenou & El Fòrum (p288)
4 Port Vell & La Barceloneta (p286)
3 La Ribera (p284)
2 El Raval (p280)
1 La Rambla & Barri Gòtic (p276)
MAP INDEX
1
L'ESQUERRA DE L'EIXAMPLE
" Ð 11
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LA DRETA DE L'EIXAMPLE
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29 Palau del Lloctinent .................................................. E3 30 Palau Episcopal.........................................................D3 31 Palau Moja..................................................................B3
55 Onofre......................................................................... C1 56 Pla................................................................................E4
27 Palau de la Generalitat .............................................D3 28 Palau de la Virreina...................................................B4
32 Plaça de Sant Jaume................................................D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p73) æ Sights (p64) 33 Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol........................................C4 59 Barcelona Pipa Club .................................................C5 5 Ajuntament................................................................ E4 34 Plaça del Rei............................................................... E3 60 Boadas........................................................................A2 6 Capella de Santa Llúcia............................................ D3 35 Plaça Reial..................................................................D5 61 Bootleg ....................................................................... F4 7 Capella Reial de Santa Àgata .................................. E2 36 Roman Wall................................................................ E3 62 Bosc de les Fades...................................................... E7 8 Casa Centelles .......................................................... E4 37 Roman Walls..............................................................D2 63 Caelum .......................................................................C3 9 Casa de l'Ardiaca ...................................................... D3 38 Sinagoga Major .........................................................D4 64 Cafè de l'Òpera..........................................................C5 10 Centre d'Art Santa Mònica...................................... D7 39 Temple Romà d'August............................................ E3 65 Čaj Chai ......................................................................D3 Centre de la Imatge ........................................ (see 28) 40 Via Sepulcral Romana..............................................B2 66 Can Fly........................................................................ F4 11 Centre d'Interpretació del Call................................D4 67 Ginger .........................................................................E4 12 Col·legi de Arquitectes............................................. D2 ú Eating (p71) 68 Granja La Pallaresa...................................................B3 13 Domus de Sant Honorat ..........................................D4 41 Alcoba Azul ................................................................D3 69 Karma .........................................................................D5 14 Església de Betlem ................................................... B3 42 Allium..........................................................................D4 70 La Cerveteca.............................................................. F4 15 Església de la Mercè................................................. F6 43 Butifarring..................................................................D4 71 La Clandestina........................................................... F4 16 Església de Santa Maria del Pi ................................C4 44 Cafè de l'Acadèmia ................................................... E3 72 La Granja ....................................................................D4 17 Església de Sants Just i Pastor............................... E4 45 Cerería .......................................................................D4 73 La Macarena ..............................................................D6 18 Font de Canaletes..................................................... A2 46 Cervecería Taller de Tapas......................................C4 74 L'Ascensor ................................................................. E4 19 Gran Teatre del Liceu............................................... C5 47 Cervecería Taller de Tapas...................................... C1 75 Manchester................................................................ E5 20 Hemp Museum Gallery .............................................F5 48 Els Quatre Gats ......................................................... C1 76 Marula Cafè................................................................D5 21 Mosaïc de Miró.......................................................... B5 49 Forneria Tiana ........................................................... F5 77 Mirilla .......................................................................... F5 22 Museu de Cera ...........................................................E7 50 Koy Shunka................................................................ D1 78 Ocaña..........................................................................D6 23 Museu de l'Eròtica .................................................... B4 51 La Colmena................................................................ E3 79 Oviso ...........................................................................D5 24 Museu del Calçat ...................................................... D3 52 La Plata ...................................................................... F5 80 Polaroid ......................................................................E6 25 Museu d'Idees i Invents de Barcelona ................... E4 53 La Vinateria del Call ..................................................D4 81 Salterio .......................................................................D4 26 Museu Diocesà.......................................................... D2 54 Milk.............................................................................. F5 82 Sor Rita....................................................................... F5
æ Top Sights (p58) 1 La Catedral ................................................................D3 2 La Rambla.................................................................. C5 3 Museu d'Història de Barcelona............................... E3 4 Museu Frederic Marès ............................................. D2
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LA RAMBLA & BARRI GÒTIC
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ý Entertainment (p75) 83 Blvd .............................................................................C6 84 El Paraigua................................................................. D4 Gran Teatre del Liceu......................................(see 19) 85 Harlem Jazz Club...................................................... E5 86 Jamboree................................................................... D6 87 L'Ateneu..................................................................... B2 Música al Museu ................................................(see 3) 88 Sala Tarantos ............................................................C6 89 Sidecar Factory Club................................................ D5 90 Teatre Principal.........................................................D6
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131 Hotel Racó del Pi .......................................................C4 132 Kabul...........................................................................D6 133 Vrabac ........................................................................B3
115 Xocoa..........................................................................B4 116 Zoen............................................................................D3
113 Taller de Marionetas Travi....................................... C1 114 Torrons Vicens ..........................................................B3
129 Hotel Mercer .............................................................. F4 130 Hotel Neri ...................................................................D3
112 Soda............................................................................D5
128 Hotel Continental ......................................................A2
125 El Jardí ........................................................................C4 126 Hotel 1898 ..................................................................A3 127 Hotel Colón ................................................................D2
107 L'Arca .........................................................................C3
111 Sala Parés ..................................................................B4
123 Bonic........................................................................... E7 124 DO ...............................................................................C5
106 La Talenta .................................................................. E6
122 Alberg Hostel Itaca ...................................................D2
105 La Manual Alpargatera.............................................D4
104 La Basilica Galeria.....................................................D3 ÿ Sleeping
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121 Trixi ............................................................................. F4
103 Imaginarium...............................................................C3
120 Runner Bean Tours...................................................D5
101 Formatgeria La Seu .................................................. E3 102 Herboristeria del Rei.................................................C5
118 BarcelonaBiking.com ...............................................D4 119 Fat Tire Bike Tours....................................................D3
99 FC Botiga.................................................................... E3 100 Fires, Festes i Tradicions ......................................... E3
117 Barcelona Segway Fun............................................. F3
97 El Ingenio....................................................................C4 Ø Sports & Activities 98 Empremtes de Catalunya........................................C4
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æ Sights (p84) 4 Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu..............................D4 5 Capella Macba........................................................... C3 6 Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona................................................................C2 7 Església de Sant Pau del Camp ..............................D8 8 La Capella .................................................................. E4
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293
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æ Sights (p133) þ Shopping (p141) 3 Casa de les Punxes.....................................B3 26 Adolfo Domínguez......................................C6 4 Església de la Puríssima Concepció 27 Casa Del Llibre............................................ B5 28 Cubiña..........................................................B4 I Assumpció de Nostra Senyora.....................................................C4 29 El Corte Inglés............................................. D7 5 Església de les Saleses...............................D3 30 Flores Navarro ............................................C4 6 Fundació Suñol ...........................................A4 31 Joan Múrria .................................................C4 7 Museu Egipci ...............................................B5 32 Laie...............................................................D6 8 Palau del Baró Quadras .............................A4 33 Norma Comics............................................ F6 9 Palau Montaner...........................................B4 34 Vinçon .......................................................... A4 10 Platja de l'Eixample.....................................C4 Ø Sports & Activities (p145) ú Eating (p137) 35 Babylon Idiomas......................................... D5 11 Can Kenji......................................................C2 12 Casa Alfonso ...............................................D6 ÿ Sleeping (p216) 13 Casa Amalia.................................................C4 36 Barcelona Center Inn................................. E5 14 Casa Calvet..................................................D6 37 Cami Bed & Gallery ....................................D6 15 De Tapa Madre............................................C4 38 Fashion House ............................................ E6 16 Embat...........................................................C4 39 Five Rooms..................................................D6 17 Granja Petitbo .............................................D3 40 HCC St Moritz.............................................C6 18 Patagonia Beef & Wine ..............................D6 41 Hostal Goya.................................................D6 19 Tapas 24 ......................................................C6 42 Hostal Oliva .................................................C6 43 Hotel Constanza.........................................D6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p140) 44 Hotel Hispanos Siete Suiza........................D1 20 Cafè del Centre ...........................................D4 45 Hotel Majèstic............................................. B5 21 Garaje Hermético........................................A3 46 Hotel Omm .................................................. A4 22 Les Gens Que J'Aime..................................B5 47 Hotel Sixtytwo............................................. B5 23 New Chaps...................................................B3 48 Mandarin Oriental ......................................C6 49 Room Mate Pau .......................................... D7
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GRÀCIA æ Sights (p158) 1 Fundació Foto Colectania..........................A6 2 Mercat de la Llibertat .................................A5
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers Regis St Louis
Coordinating Author; La Rambla & Barri Gòtic; Barceloneta & the Water front; Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta Regis first fell in love with Barcelona and Catalonia on a grand journey across Iberia in the late 1990s. Since then he has returned frequently, learning Spanish and a smattering of Catalan, and delving into the rich cultural history of this endlessly fascinating city. Favourite memories from his most recent trip include earning a few scars at a wild correfoc (fire run) in Gràcia, watching brave castellers build human towers at the Santa Eulàlia fest, and feasting on navallas (razor clams), pop á feira (Galician-style octopus) and carxofes (artichokes) all across town. Regis is also the author of Discover Barcelona, and he has contributed to Spain, Portugal and dozens of other Lonely Planet titles. He lives in Brooklyn, New York. Regis also wrote the majority of the Plan Your Trip chapters, the Understand Barcelona and Survival Guide sections, and cowrote the Sleeping chapter.
Sally Davies
El Raval; La Ribera; La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample; Gràcia & Park Güell; Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni Sally landed in Seville in 1992 with a handful of pesetas and five words of Spanish, and, despite a complete inability to communicate, promptly snared a lucrative number handing out leaflets at Expo ’92. In 2001 she settled in Barcelona, where she is still incredulous that her daily grind involves researching fine restaurants, wandering around museums and finding ways to convey the beauty of this spectacular city. Sally also wrote the Entertainment and Shopping chapters and cowrote the Sleeping chapter.
Andy Symington
Day Trips Andy hails from Australia but has been living in Spain for over a decade, where, to shatter a couple of stereotypes of the country, he can frequently be found huddled in subzero temperatures watching the tragically poor local football team. He has authored and coauthored many Lonely Planet guidebooks and other publications on Spain and elsewhere; in his spare time he walks in the mountains, embarks on epic tapas trails, and co-bosses a rock bar.
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