Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Buenos Aires. All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Buenos Aires “ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDE

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Buenos Aires “ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sandra Bao

Contents Plan PlanYour YourTrip Trip page 1 Welcome to Buenos Aires................................... 4 Buenos Aires’ Top 10....... 6 What’s New .................... 13 Need to Know ................ 14 Top Itineraries................ 16

4

If You Like........................ 18

Entertainment............. 36

Month by Month.............20

Tango............................. 39

With Kids.........................22

Shopping.......................45

Eating............................24

Sports & Activities.......................48

Drinking & Nightlife........................ 32

Explore Buenos Aires 

52

The Center......................56

La Boca...........................98

South of Palermo......... 146

Puerto Madero................71

Retiro.............................106

Congreso & Tribunales....................... 76

Recoleta & Barrio Norte..............................115

Day Trips from Buenos Aires...............152

San Telmo.......................86

Palermo......................... 126

Understand Buenos Aires

175

Buenos Aires Today..... 176

Music............................. 188

History........................... 178

Literature & Cinema.... 194

Survival Guide 

201

Transportation............ 202

Language...................... 218

Directory A–Z............... 209

Index .............................227

Buenos Aires Maps 

Sleeping.......................162

234

Art & Architecture........ 198

SEBASTIAN ALBERTO GRECO / GETTY IMAGES ©

JOHN W BANAGAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

TIM MAKINS / GETTY IMAGES ©

(left) Obelisco, Plaza de la República (p79) (above) Puente de la Mujer, Puerto Madero (p74) (right) Floralis Genérica sculpture by Eduardo Catalano, Recoleta (p119)

Palermo p126 Recoleta & Barrio Norte p115

South of Palermo p146

Congreso & Tribunales p76

Retiro p106 The Center p56 Puerto Madero p71

San Telmo p86 La Boca p98

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

16

Top Itineraries Day One

Day Two

The Center (p56)

San Telmo (p86)

M

From leafy Plaza San Martín, walk south on pedestrian Florida and experience masses of people shopping, busking, selling or just power-walking to their next destination. You’ll eventually come within a block of Plaza de Mayo, the heart of Buenos Aires. This historic plaza is surrounded by Casa Rosada, Catedral Metropolitana and Museo del Cabildo. Lunch Outside seating and fresh offerings at the Central Market (p75).

Puerto Madero (p71) Lined with renovated old brick ware-

R houses, Puerto Madero is replete

with fancy lofts and apartment towers, plus some of the city’s most expensive (and some say overpriced) restaurants. It’s a very scenic and pleasantly vehicle-free place to stroll the cobbled paths along the dikes. Art lovers shouldn’t miss Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, highlighting the collection of Argentina’s wealthiest woman. For a shot of nature, visit Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a land-filled wetlands. Dinner Casual and excellent Peruvian can be had at Chan Chan (p81).

Congreso & Tribunales (p76) Take in an opera, ballet or classicalmusic show at Teatro Colón, Buenos Aires’ premier theater. The traditional entertainment district of Av Corrientes still hops these days, showcasing many films, art events and plays.

N

through this colonial neighborM Stroll hood’s cobbled streets and windowshop for antiques. Come on a Sunday, when the famous Feria de San Telmo street market takes over the neighborhood. Book a tour to the stunning El Zanjón de Granados for a peek into the city’s origins. Lunch A sidewalk table at Bar Plaza Dorrego (p92) for great people-watching.

La Boca (p98) The colorful corrugated houses along

R El Caminito are indeed photo­

genic, though this area is a bit of a tourist trap. It’s still fun, however; check out the souvenir shops and artists’ paintings and perhaps catch a street-tango show. Art lovers shouldn’t miss Fundación Proa, a cuttingedge gallery, while soccer fans can head to La Bombonera stadium and visit the Boca team’s Museo de la Pasión Boquense. But whatever you do, don’t stray too far from the tourist hordes; La Boca is at times a rough neighborhood. Dinner Try exceptional international cuisine at Café San Juan (p91).

San Telmo (p86)

Catch a tango show at El Viejo Al-

N macén, a long-running venue. Or go drinking at one of the many great watering holes in the area, from Gibraltar (an English pub) to Doppelgänger (an upscale cocktail bar).

17

Day Four

Recoleta & Barrio Norte (p115)

Palermo (p126)

M

Explore Recoleta’s famous cemetery; you can wander for hours among the crumbling sacrophagi and marble angels. It’s a veritable city of the dead, fascinating and mysterious; to seek out Evita’s tomb, just follow everyone else. Lunch Empanadas at El Sanjuanino (p120), one of the few cheap eateries.

Recoleta & Barrio Norte (p115)

Check out the Museo Nacional

R de Bellas Artes, Argentina’s top

classic arts museum. Just north is the cool sculpture Floralis Genérica, a giant metal flower whose petals open during the day and close at night (when the gears are working!). And if you’ve got the bucks, the city’s most expensive boutiques are along Av Alvear, worth a stroll to also eyeball some huge old mansions. Visit Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco and Palacio Paz, in nearby Dinner Looking for the locals? Then head to classic Rodi Bar (p119).

Retiro, if you like gorgeous palaces filled with antiques.

Recoleta & Barrio Norte (p115)

Time to drink up: Milión is a bar-

N restaurant in a beautiful old man-

sion, Casa Bar is a sports pub popular with expats, and La Biela is a traditional

(or take a bike ride) along M Walk Palermo’s Parque 3 de Febrero,

where you can also visit a zoo, botanical garden and Japanese garden. Bike paths are laced throughout, and on Sunday the ring road around the Rose Garden is closed to vehicles. Lunch Malba’s (p128) cafe-restaurant has a great patio for sunny days.

Palermo (p126)

Visit Malba, a beautiful and con-

R temporary art museum showcasing

the collection of art patron Eduardo F Costantini. The Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo is another must-see; it’s a beaux arts mansion that once belonged to a Chilean aristocrat, and is full of his posh belongings. Finally, Evita fans can’t miss Museo Evita, which chronicles the life of Dinner For an excellent steakhouse, get a table at Don Julio (p132).

Argentina’s most internationally famous woman.

Palermo (p126) Palermo is nightlife central. There

N are dozens of bars to check out,

and people come from all over to dance at the famous clubs here. For outdoor action, head to Plaza Serrano, which is surrounded by restaurants and bars, along

PL AN YOUR TRIP Top I ti n eraries

Day Three

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

234

Buenos Aires Maps

Map Legend

Sights

Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight

Eating

Sports & Activities

Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Sports & Activities

Information

Post Office Tourist Information

Transport

Sleeping

Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Underground Train Station

Camping

Other Transport

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking & Nightlife Cafe

Entertainment

Entertainment

Shopping

Shopping

Sleeping

Routes

Tollway

Geographic

Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps

Hydrography

River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier

Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path

Boundaries

International State/Province

Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Areas

Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)

9 South of Palermo (p254)

8 Palermo (p250)

7 Retiro (p248)

6 Recoleta & Barrio Norte (p246)

5 La Boca (p244)

4 San Telmo (p242)

3 Congreso & Tribunales (p240)

2 Puerto Madero (p238)

1 The Center (p236)

MAP INDEX

1

1

1

1

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1

1

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1

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e # 00

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PALERMO

2 km 1 miles

CABALLITO

VILLA CRESPO

BOEDO

ALMAGRO

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BARRACAS " Ð 4

" Ð 5

SAN TELMO

MONTSERRAT



rse na

PUERTO MADERO

Lago de los Patos

Lago de las Gaviolas

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

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LA BOCA

LA CITY

RETIRO Dársena Norte

MICROCENTRO

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CONSTITUCIÓN

CONGRESO BALVANERA

TRIBUNALES

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ABASTO

Parque 3 de Febrero

PALERMO SOHO

PALERMO PALERMO HOLLYWOOD VIEJO

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(p68)

3 Casa Rosada..........................E5 4 Catedral Metropolitana........D5

de Polo ................................C5

33 Confitería Ideal......................B3 Bicentenario .......................E3 34 El Querandí ............................C6 7 Galerías Pacífico ................... C1 35 Instituto Goethe....................D3 8 Iglesia Santa Catalina........... C1 36 La Marshall ............................B3 9 Manzana de las Luces......... C6 37 Luna Park............................... E2 10 Museo de la Ciudad ............. D6 38 Teatro Gran Rex....................B3 11 Museo de la Policía 39 Teatro Opera.........................B3 Federal ............................... C3 12 Museo del Bicentenario .......E5 þ Shopping (p68) 13 Museo Etnográfico 40 Arte y Esperanza .................. E6 Juan B Ambrosetti............ D6 41 El Ateneo................................C3 14 Museo Mitre.......................... C3 42 El Coleccionista ....................B2 15 Museo Mundial del Tango...................................B5 Ø Sports & Activities (p211, 217) 43 Academia Buenos ú Eating (p63) Aires ....................................C5 16 Aldo's Vinoteca .................... D6 44 Alianza Francesa ...................A1 17 Broccolino.............................. B1 Escuela Argentina de 18 California Burrito Tango .......................... (see 5) Company (CBC)................ D2 45 Expanish ................................C4 19 D'Oro ......................................C5 46 Instituto Cultural 20 Furai-Bo ................................ D6 Argentino21 Granix .................................... C4 Norteamericano ................B2 22 La Panadería de Pablo ........ D6 23 Tomo 1....................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p165) Vita ...............................(see 43) 47 Claridge Hotel .......................C2 48 Gran Hotel Hispano..............B5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p67) 49 Hotel Avenida........................C5 24 Alsina......................................A6 50 Hotel Facón Grande .............D2 25 Bahrein.................................. D2 51 Hotel Lafayette .....................D2 Café Tortoni.................(see 32) 52 Hotel Maipú ........................... B1 26 Cocoliche ...............................B5 53 Portal del Sur ........................B5 27 La Cigale................................ D2 54 V & S Hostel Club .................B2

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æ Top Sights (p73) ú Eating (p75) 1 Reserva Ecológica Costanera 7 i Central Market .......................................... A2 Sur .............................................................D4 8 i Fresh Market............................................. B3 9 La Parolaccia del Mare .............................. A4 æ Sights (p74) 10 La Parolaccia Trattoria.............................. A3 2 Colección de Arte Amalia 11 La Rosa Náutica...........................................A1 Lacroze de Fortabat................................ A1 3 Corbeta Uruguay ........................................A2 ý Entertainment (p75) 4 Faena Arts Center.......................................B3 Rojo Tango .........................................(see 12) 5 Fragata Sarmiento......................................A3 6 Puente de la Mujer......................................A3 ÿ Sleeping (p166) 12 Faena Hotel + Universe .............................B4

g h

32 Teatro Paseo la Plaza ...............................................D4 33 Teatro Presidente Alvear .........................................D3

16 Pizzería Güerrín......................................................... E3 17 Plaza Asturias............................................................ F5

CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES

Teatro San Martín ...........................................(see 29) æ Sights (p79) û Drinking & Nightlife (p81) 2 Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas ................................ B3 18 Café de los Angelitos................................................B5 þ Shopping (p83) 3 Centro Cultural San Martín .....................................D4 19 Cruzat Beer House ...................................................D4 34 Wildlife ........................................................................ F5 4 Museo Beatle.............................................................D4 20 El Gato Negro ............................................................D3 35 Zival's..........................................................................C3 5 Museo del Patrimonio .............................................. C2 21 Maluco Beleza ...........................................................D4 6 Museo Judio Dr Salvador Ø Sports & Activities (p49) Kibrick ......................................................................F2 ý Entertainment (p82) 36 Punto Cumbre ...........................................................C4 7 Obelisco ......................................................................F3 22 Ávila Bar ..................................................................... E5 8 Palacio Barolo ........................................................... E5 Café de los Angelitos.......................................(see 18) ÿ Sleeping (p166) 9 Palacio de las Aguas 23 Cantares..................................................................... F5 37 Gran Hotel Oriental...................................................C5 Corrientes...............................................................C2 24 Cartelera Baires ........................................................ E3 38 Hotel Bonito ............................................................... E7 10 Plaza del Congreso................................................... D5 25 Cosmos-UBA.............................................................B3 39 Hotel Lyon..................................................................C4 11 Plaza Lavalle.............................................................. E2 26 El Beso........................................................................C3 40 Hotel Marbella ........................................................... F5 27 Espacio INCAA ..........................................................D5 41 La Cayetana ............................................................... E7 ú Eating (p80) 28 Los 36 Billares........................................................... F5 42 Livin' Residence.........................................................C2 12 Chan Chan ................................................................. E5 29 Sala Leopoldo Lugones............................................D3 43 Milhouse Youth Hostel .............................................G5 13 Chiquilín .....................................................................D4 30 Tango Porteño........................................................... F2 44 Novotel Hotel.............................................................E3 14 El Cuartito ................................................................... E1 31 Teatro Avenida .......................................................... F5 45 Sabatico Hostel ......................................................... E7 15 Parrilla Peña .............................................................D2 Teatro Colón.......................................................(see 1)

æ Top Sights (p78) 1 Teatro Colón...............................................................F2

CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES Map on p240

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æ Sights (p89) ý Entertainment (p93) 2 Centro Cultural Torquato 34 Boutique ................................ C1 Tasso .................................. D6 Centro Cultural Torquato Dique 3 Convento de Santo Tasso........................... (see 2) 2 Domingo.............................. C1 35 El Viejo Almacén ...................D2 4 El Zanjón de Granados........ C2 36 Federación Argentina de Pato ..................................... C1 5 Facultad de Ingenieria ........ D3 6 Iglesia Nuestra Señora 37 La Scala de San Telmo ........D3 de Belén ............................. D4 38 La Trastienda ........................ D1 2 7 Museo Argentino del 39 La Ventana ............................ D1 Títere ...................................B3 40 Tango Queer..........................C2 8 Museo de Arte 41 Todo Mundo ..........................C4 Contemporáneo Buenos Aires ..................... D4 þ Shopping (p95) 9 Museo de Arte Moderno 42 Cualquier Verdura ................C4 R Vera de Buenos Aires 43 En Buen Orden......................C3 Peñaloza (Mamba) ............................ D4 44 Feria de San Telmo ..............C4 3 10 Museo del Traje.....................B2 45 Gil Antiguedades ..................C4 11 Museo Histórico 46 Imhotep..................................D3 Nacional ............................. D6 47 L'Ago ......................................D3 12 Museo Penitenciario............ D4 48 Materia Urbana.....................D2 13 Parque Lezama .................... D6 49 Mercado de San Telmo........C3 14 Pasaje de la Defensa ........... C4 50 Moebius .................................D5 51 Punto Sur...............................C4 (p91) 52 Puntos en el Espacio............C3 4 ú Eating 15 Abuela Pan............................ C2 53 Signos ....................................C3 16 Bar El Federal ....................... C3 54 Vinotango ..............................C3 17 Café San Juan ...................... C4 55 Walrus Books ........................C3 18 Café San Juan La Cantina............................... C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p211) 19 Casal de Catalunya...............B3 56 Rayuela ..................................B3 20 Comedor Nikkai ....................B3 21 El Desnivel............................. C3 ÿ Sleeping (p168) 5 22 Gran Parrilla del Plata ......... C2 57 America del Sur ....................B3 23 La Poesia............................... C2 58 Bohemia Buenos Aires ........C3 24 Origen Café........................... C4 59 Bonito San Telmo.................C5 60 Brisas del Mar .......................B4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p92) 61 Casa y Mundo Bolivar ..........C6 25 Bar Británico .........................D5 62 Circus Hostel & Hotel...........B4 26 Bar Plaza Dorrego................ D4 63 Hostel Viejo Telmo ...............A2 27 Bar Seddón ........................... C2 64 Lugar Gay ..............................D4 6 o Ne 28 Boutique.................................B2 65 Mansión Vitraux....................D3 co ch 29 Coffee Town ......................... C3 66 San Telmo Colonial ..............B3 ea 30 Doppelgänger........................C5 67 Scala Hotel ............................A3 Av Al 31 Gibraltar ................................ C3 68 Terranova Hostel..................C4 m See map p238

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31 Feria Plaza Francia....................................................D4 32 Gabriella Capucci ...................................................... F5

16 Rodi Bar......................................................................D5 17 Tea Connection ......................................................... E5

RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE

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PALERMO Map on p250 æ Top Sights (p128) 1 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires ........................................... H3 2 Parque 3 de Febrero................................... F2

Il Matterello ....................................... (see 95) 26 La Cabrera................................................... C5 27 La Cabrera...................................................C6 28 Las Cholas................................................... D2 29 Las Pizarras................................................. E4 30 Malvón .........................................................G3

æ Sights (p130) 31 Miranda........................................................C4 3 Centro Islámico Rey Fahd .........................E2 Museo Evita Restaurante.................(see 10) 4 Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays................... F4 32 Natural Deli...................................................C1 5 Jardín Japonés............................................G3 33 Olsen ............................................................ B4 6 Jardín Zoológico .........................................E4 34 Oui Oui ......................................................... C3 7 Museo Casa de Ricardo Rojas ................. H6 35 Oviedo..........................................................H6 8 Museo de Arte Popular José 36 Siamo nel Forno..........................................C4 Hernández ............................................... H4 37 Social la Lechuza........................................ D5 9 Museo de Artes Plásticas 38 Sudestada ...................................................C4 Eduardo Sívori.......................................... F2 39 Unik .............................................................. D5 10 Museo Evita ................................................. F4 11 Museo Nacional de Arte û Drinking & Nightlife (p135) Decorativo ............................................... H4 40 AcaBar .........................................................C4 12 Museo Xul Solar ..........................................G7 41 Antares ........................................................ A7 13 Planetario Galileo Galilei............................G2 42 Casa Coupage.............................................D4 14 Rosedal......................................................... F2 43 Club Aráoz....................................................F5 44 Congo........................................................... C5 ú Eating (p132) 45 Crobar.......................................................... E2 15 Almacén Oui Oui .........................................C3 46 El Carnal....................................................... C5 16 Arevalito.......................................................B4 47 Frank's Bar .................................................. B4 17 Astor.............................................................B3 48 Glam............................................................. G7 18 Azema ..........................................................C4 49 Home Hotel ................................................. B4 19 Bio .................................................................D4 50 Kika............................................................... C5 20 Crizia.............................................................D5 51 La Viruta ......................................................D6 21 Don Julio ...................................................... E5 52 Magdalena's Party...................................... D5 22 Green Bamboo ............................................C4 53 Mundo Bizarro ............................................C6 23 Hernán Gipponi Restaurant ......................C4 54 Niceto Club.................................................. B5 24 Il Ballo de Mattone......................................B4 55 Post Street Bar........................................... D5 25 Il Ballo del Mattone.....................................C4 56 Salon Canning.............................................D6

253

57 Shanghai Dragon ........................................D7 58 Sugar ............................................................B6

88 Patio del Liceo.............................................H6 89 Rapsodia...................................................... A7

59 Van Koning...................................................D2

90 Sugar & Spice .............................................D4

60 Verne ............................................................F6

91 Zival's ...........................................................D6

palermo

ý Entertainment (p138) Ø Sports & Activities (p28, 207) 61 Campo Argentino de Polo .........................D2 92 Anda Responsible Travel........................... G7 62 La Peña del Colorado ................................. F5 93 Anuva Wines ............................................... C2 63 Los Cardones .............................................. E5 94 Bar du Marché ............................................C4 64 Thelonious Bar............................................ F5 95 Pain et Vin.................................................... C5 65 Tiempo de Gitanos .....................................C4 96 Parque General Belgrano ...................................................H2 þ Shopping (p138) 97 Say Hueque................................................. D5 66 28 Sport .......................................................A7 98 Vamos..........................................................G6 67 Alto Palermo................................................G5 68 Arte Étnico Argentino.................................B7 ÿ Sleeping (p171) 69 Bolivia...........................................................A7 99 248 Finisterra.............................................. D2 70 Calma Chicha ..............................................A6 100 5th Floor ......................................................G4 71 Capital .........................................................A7 101 Abode........................................................... D5 72 Centrico........................................................E6 102 BA Sohotel................................................... E5 73 El Cid.............................................................B6 103 Cabrera Garden ......................................... B4 74 Feria Plaza Serrano ....................................A6 104 Caserón Porteño ........................................ B3 75 Harapos Patagonia.....................................B7 105 Duque Hotel ................................................ E5 76 Hermanos Estebecorena...........................B4 106 Eco Pampa Hostel...................................... E5 77 Humawaca...................................................B7 107 Infinito Hotel.................................................F5 78 Juana de Arco..............................................B6 108 Livian Guesthouse.......................................E7 79 La Mercería..................................................B7 109 Magnolia Hotel............................................ E6 80 Libros del Pasaje.........................................D5 110 Mine Hotel ...................................................D6 81 Lo de Joaquin Alberdi.................................A6 111 Miravida Soho............................................. D5 82 Mercado de las Pulgas ...............................B4 112 Palermitano................................................. D5 83 Mishka ..........................................................B7 113 Palermo Viejo B&B.....................................D6 84 Nobrand .......................................................B4 114 Reina Madre Hostel.................................... G7 85 Panorama .................................................... F4 115 Rendezvous Hotel ...................................... B5 86 Papelera Palermo .......................................C5 116 Rugantino Hotel.......................................... D5 87 Paseo Alcorta ............................................. H3 117 Vain Boutique Hotel................................... E4

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æ Sights (p148) 8 Café Margot .................................................F5 1 Carlos Gardel Statue..................................G2 9 Malvón ..........................................................C1 2 Casa Brandon..............................................D2 10 Pan Y Arte.....................................................F5 3 Mercado de Abasto .................................... F2 11 Sarkis ............................................................D1 4 Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales.C3 5 Museo Casa Carlos Gardel........................G2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p149) Observatorio Astronómico................ (see 4) 12 878.................................................................C1 13 Amerika ....................................................... E2 ú Eating (p148) 14 Cervecería Cossab..................................... E5 6 Bi Won ......................................................... H2 15 La Catedral.................................................. E3 7 Café Crespin................................................C2 16 Las Violetas................................................. E3

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ý Entertainment (p150) 24 Esquina Carlos Gardel ...............................G2 17 Actors Studio 25 Esquina Homero Manzi ..............................F5 Teatro........................................................E3 18 Ciudad Cultural Ø Sports & Activities (p211) Konex......................................................... F3 26 DWS ..............................................................E1 19 Club Gricel ...................................................G5 20 Complejo Tango......................................... G4 ÿ Sleeping (p173) 21 El Camarín de las 27 Chill House Hostel.......................................F2 Musas ........................................................ F2 28 Pop Hotel......................................................C1 22 El Cubo .........................................................G2 29 Querido B&B ................................................C1 23 Espacio Callejón.......................................... F2 30 Racó de Buenos Aires................................ E4

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers Sandra Bao

Coordinating Author Sandra’s mom and her family escaped China’s communist regime in the years following WWII, eventually boarding a freighter bound for Argentina in 1952. After months at sea they arrived in Buenos Aires – just two days after the death of Evita Perón. Sandra’s parents married in Montevideo, Uruguay, then raised Sandra and her brother, Daniel, in BA. They lived the carefree porteño life (with asados every Sunday) until 1974, when things got politically dicey. Once again the Baos emigrated to greener pastures, this time the USA. Sandra is proud to be a porteña and has regularly returned to her homeland as an adult, watching the peso fluctuate wildly through the decades. Over the last 14 years Sandra has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks. Read more about Sandra at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sandrabao

Contributing Author

Marina Charles wrote the Street Art essay. She is a British expat and Buenos Aires resident who cofounded Graffitimundo in 2009.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 7th edition – Aug 2014 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 218 1 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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